Motor seized brushes were tight took off cover on motor rear bearing no good can i replace it and how

If the brush on your Hoover Blade vacuum cleaner won't rotate, there are a few things you can check to try and fix the issue:

1. Check for obstructions: Check the brush roll for any obstructions like hair, string, or debris that might be wrapped around it. Remove any obstructions you find.
2. Check the belt: Even if the belt looks good, it might be stretched or damaged. Check that the belt is tight and not slipping. If the belt is stretched or damaged, replace it with a new one.
3. Check the motor: The brush roll is powered by the motor, so if the motor is not working properly, the brush won't rotate. Check that the motor is working by turning on the vacuum and listening for a humming sound. If you hear a humming sound, the motor is working. If not, there may be an issue with the motor that requires professional repair.
4. Check the brush roll bearings: If the bearings on the brush roll are worn or damaged, it may cause the brush to stop rotating. Try rotating the brush roll by hand. If it doesn't turn smoothly, the bearings may need to be replaced.

If none of these solutions work, it may be best to take your Hoover Blade vacuum cleaner to a professional for repair.

Keep it simple; firstly,
Check the sensors, water level especially as it gets clogged with congealed powder etc.
Check the drain pump for debris.

motor failing - debris --burnt bearings

Sucking up a Lego or similar item normally should not have done any damage to the motor. It may stop the brush roll which may burn the belt if the belt is tight. If the item got sucked into the fan it may have broken or cracked it which could seize the motor. Remove the brush roll assembly, spin the motor shaft while you inspect the fan. Fan replacement is best to be done by an experienced technician.

Turn the machine off and try to turn the brush by hand, If it's seized take it out and clean the ends and put oil on the bearings or brush ends. Make sure the belt is tight on the brush and motor shaft.

no they are bad, unless its brakes
a real mech , checks both.
its one or the other, or worse. bad axle gear/bearings/

the fsm covers both. ever seen the real book? on this car.
the ZJ book is here and free

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
posted like 100+ times, now......

keep in mind jeeps may have different axles.
2wd, 4wd, and locking axles (options)
models 30, 35 and 44 so the details vary that is why the book wins here. the real book wins.

diagnosis is an other matter, i have an electronic stethoscope
that allows me to drive and hear each bearing. cost me $35.

id inspect brakes first. after all they are in clear easy view.
make sure the brake parts are not seized. that includes
the Emg. brake parts !!!
does you car have ABS brakes?
some have drums others have rear disc brakes, the linked FSM
covers both.

for example disc calipers can fail in many ways
guides seized.
pistion seized
emg brake part stuck.
cracked rotors, or warped.

so that be first a real brake inspection on side that makes noise.

if the brakes are ok, then axle bearings are checked next
if you feel radial play they are BAD.
and more. ask.

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.

Coming the second aspect if the above gives no result:
Perhaps you need new carbons brushes for the motor. It is a fairly straightforward repair. Remove the top cover, screws at rear, and slide top cover off towards the rear. The motor is located at the top right right rear, you will see the drive belt. Slacken the bolt that holds the motor, and push the motor down towards the top of the drum. You will see the 2 brush holders, they will be either black or white, pull the wires off the holder terminals, and depress the plastic lug that holds the brushes in place, slide the brushes out of the motor. The length of the brush should be at least half an inch long or replace. Fit new genuine carbon brushes, and follow instructions on packaging. Push the leads back on to the carbon terminals. tighten up motor, and make sure the belt is reasonably tight. Test on final spin before you refit top cover.
(Spares can easily be located on this very site - Fixya)
There are very gud videos on YouTube to guide you.
If helped pl click so.

your bearrings may be seized up

There could be two issues here there is whats called a soft start module in the motor that could be causing you problem, when the motor gets up to speed it shuts off, replacing the module will solve that proble. Or it could be the rear armature bearing has seized, usually they seize so tight they will stop the motor rotation.

hi are you sure bearing is the problem ?? if your machine is working ok ie running /completing the wash cycle and also draining the used water/rinsing cycle ? but when on spin cycle the clothes are still wet ? if this is the case ? may i suggest that you inspect/check the actual motor brushes ?? as if the brushes x 2 are worne very low they will drive the wash cycle for a time but when spin cycle activates the revs req'd of the motor are lost ie worn brushes will not provide extra power now to change brushes is easy diy and here in uk a pack of 2 new brushes cost approx £5 and if you remove rear cover of machine you will see what looks like auto alternator//this is the motor which is held and adjustable to drive belt in the same way as alternator on a car the elec connection is a master plug so no problem to remove? hope this helps and inspires you ? come back if you get stuck ? or req more info best wishes for a merry xmas