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One of my heat zones doesnt close when the thermostat is OFF.

I have Grundfos ups15-58frc pumps on my several zones. Thermostat on one zone is OFF but the supply line for that zone still has heat so the zone is not closed off. No lights show on the TACO control for that zone so whats going on? Is there a manual OFF mode for the Grundfos?

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  • Master
  • 451 Answers

If the circulator pump is not running It may be that another circulator pump is forcing boiler water through that zone when it runs,if so , you may have to install a zone valve to make sure the zone is completely closed off when not in use. Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 31, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: home heating and thermostat

It is possible the relay on the zone board is bad, You can test the thermostat if you own a voltage meter. It is possible for the thermostat to display and still be bad.

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing Round Honewell Mercury Thermostat

try to get one that is made for oil heat, the installation is easy only two wires, and the instructions make it easy.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: valve replaced , but 1 zone out of 3 no heat when

Hello. Each zone in you home has one thermostat controlling one zone valve. Generally, when a thermostat is calling for heat the zone valve opens and the circulating pump comes on to move the water around that loop. If your other two zones are both working as they should and you now have a new zone valve on the third loop I would suspect that the thermostat is faulty. Regards, Joe

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

shastalaker7
  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: Programmable thermostat for Taco zone valve

Hi there, this mechanical t-stat you are using now, does it just open and close this zone valve on a call for heat to fire the burner also? What voltage is this thermostat, 24, 120, or even 220 volts? I need to no this so I can locate the stat you need to replace the old mechanical stat. Let me know exactly what all this stat controls, any fan, or just the burner and zone valve. I need to know the wiring configuration of the existing stat. This will make for a faster locating of the new stat. I can get you a stat that you can control just about any combination's of what ever and that's why I need to know voltages and amount of wires available to me to work with. This I thank you for. Contact me and I will get to you as soon as I am available today.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks!! Everything went smooth & is working great"

  • 381 Answers

SOURCE: I have a two zone

Good clues to work with--
Let's review how you wired up the Zone Valves, in relation to the Boiler Control panel...

You say the upper zone does NOT SHUT DOWN--
Does that mean it is OPEN ALL THE TIME?-- (even when the circulating pump is OFF? )
That sounds like the thermostat is not even in the circuit, then.

Have you been able to cycle each of the valves thru their cycles-- Open- and then closed?
-- It almost sounds like you have an interconnection between the two valves-- is this possible?

Each Thermostat has to control its valve only...
and most systems do this thru a control panel at the boiler--
So-- How is your control panel connected to the 2 thermostats, and how are the 2 zone valves connected to the Control board?

Are you following a wiring schematic for hooking the valves and thermostats to the control board?
There should be a schematic with the new valve you must installed, right?
did you wire it like the instructions showed?

Make a few more tests, and get back with us--

Mack B

Posted on Jan 18, 2011

Testimonial: "well I am sure it was wired in wrong... when the service guy came back he talked me into putting on a different circuit board.. the zone valves wired "

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sounds if your zone valve isn't closing off and the circ pump runs all the time ?? ck to see if zone valve gets power all the time or only when thermostat calls for it , if power is only there when called for then your valve is bad (common)

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Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.

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Thank you for your interest with Emerson White Rodgers. My Name is Joselito Laxamana from technical department. Make sure to connect a thermostat that will power open and powered closed the zone valve. I pretty sure that the two wire thermostat that your going to connect will not be compatible. To better assist you with this further contact us directly at 18002842925.

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My heat rises higher than the designated temperature. For example, if I set the thermostat to 60 the temperature will go up to 73. Invensys 9405


there could be a few things causing this, the first would be a bad thermostat. The second would be an improper setting of a heat anticipator on the thermostat, the third could be a stuck zone valve that is allowing heat to go in the zone as another zone is calling. Or it could be a stuck flow check also allowing hot water to flow through the zone much like a stuck zone valve.

If your thermostat is an older one with Mercury in it, replace it with a new one and dispose of properly. If the thermostat is newer, remove the cover or consult the owners manual to see if there is an adjustment that shuts off the thermostat a bit sooner to compensate for the heat that will be released from the system so you do not overshoot your setting on the thermostat. There may be either DIP switches to adjust the setting or a small pointer that slides over a small coil of wire and acts like a dimmer switch. Try adjusting and testing the system to see if it helps. Remember the original settings in case it does not help.

If you have zone valves (small boxes that allow flow of water to the zone) it may be stuck open allowing water to flow into that zone as another zone calls. You can test this by feeling the pipes at a baseboard when you know that the zone over heating is not calling for heat (turn thermostat to lowest setting). Check other zones to see if there is a call for heat in one of them. Make sure you adjust one of the other zones to force a call for heat in it, After a few minutes, feel the pipes in the zone overheating and see if the pipes are getting hot (be careful). This is the same test to check for a stuck flow check valve.

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I have a two zone water baseboard system... I installed a new zone valve to the upper zone which was not calling for heat.. the only heat it got was when the lower zone was circulating... Now the upper...


Good clues to work with--
Let's review how you wired up the Zone Valves, in relation to the Boiler Control panel...

You say the upper zone does NOT SHUT DOWN--
Does that mean it is OPEN ALL THE TIME?-- (even when the circulating pump is OFF? )
That sounds like the thermostat is not even in the circuit, then.

Have you been able to cycle each of the valves thru their cycles-- Open- and then closed?
-- It almost sounds like you have an interconnection between the two valves-- is this possible?

Each Thermostat has to control its valve only...
and most systems do this thru a control panel at the boiler--
So-- How is your control panel connected to the 2 thermostats, and how are the 2 zone valves connected to the Control board?

Are you following a wiring schematic for hooking the valves and thermostats to the control board?
There should be a schematic with the new valve you must installed, right?
did you wire it like the instructions showed?

Make a few more tests, and get back with us--

Mack B

Jan 18, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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We have three zones and one pump is not warm. It feels like the others that it is running, but the water in the loop affected is not heating. It may not be calling for heat but it is on the same thermostat...


These pumps work by timer and by thermostat.
I prefer timer-operated over thermostat because I use hot water at predictable times, thus cutting operation cost to a fraction.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

When my first re-circulation system stopped working, I took it off and cleaned it out, but it never started working again.
I also tried to take it apart to see if motor was repairable.
My electric motor guy told me that when motors slow down or stop rotating that they overheat and burn out.
I asked him about rewinding the motor, and he said in the old days, every motor was repaired and put back in service, but today they throw motors away. All that copper goes into the landfill for tomorrow's prospector. And he said what I noticed, that the pump assembly doesn't come apart for repairs.

You can remove the pump and try same things I did, but my guess is you need replacement.
I bought new pump from Lowes.
Local plumbing shops carry re-circulation pumps, and plumbers and handymen install them.
Installation is simple enough if you're handy and peripherally experienced with plumbing.
Grundfos instruction manual with photos:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Grundfos-L-UP-TL-043-install-photos.pdf

Add a comment for more free assistance.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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JUST A REFERENCE; Unit designed to heat 900 sqft. 300 sqft per thermostat. When heat comes on and only 1 zone is calling the unit doesn't heat 1/3. It heats the 900sqft it's designed to. Therefore that "extra heat" HAS TO go somewhere. If it doesnt go to the "non calling" zones the unit would shut down on safety because it would get too hot. So, open a window or you need a bypass damper with bypass duct installed that when the heat comes on for only one zone that "bypass" opens and sends the "extra heat" back into the return rather than to the "non calling" zones. To answer your question, nothing is wrong with your unit or tstats, it's the duct work. Maybe $600 to $800

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Hello. Each zone in you home has one thermostat controlling one zone valve. Generally, when a thermostat is calling for heat the zone valve opens and the circulating pump comes on to move the water around that loop. If your other two zones are both working as they should and you now have a new zone valve on the third loop I would suspect that the thermostat is faulty. Regards, Joe

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It sounds like you have at least 2 zones in your system. If this is a normal hot water boiler system with zone valves. When you have your thermostat call for heat it closes the 24 volt circuit that then energizes the motorized zone valve for that thermostat. In that motorized zone valve there is an end switch that will close and complete the circuit to the boiler. Zone valves when they start to clog up with mineralization will not allow the motor to go far enough to close the end switch, so then the boiler and circulating pump will not come on. If this is the case then you need to have the zone valve replaced.
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It is possible the relay on the zone board is bad, You can test the thermostat if you own a voltage meter. It is possible for the thermostat to display and still be bad.

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