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Operating pressures for 134A refrigerant system

What are the normal high side and low side pressures for an average domestic refrigerator using R 134A refrigerant that is working as it should?

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I would go for 40 on the suction and 150 discharge, or divide the locked rotor current by 6 and charge so the current is 1/6 of the locked rotor current of the compressor, or by temperature/pressure relation 110* discharge and 35* suction, or get the suction line sweating. The best way is to remove all the refrigerant and then weigh the refrigerant the system is designed for on these critical charge appliances.

Posted on Apr 26, 2015

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SOURCE: want to know operating pressures on a 134a refrigerator low and high

Maximum efficiency is achieved when there is the greatest difference between high side and low side provided the low side stays under 30 psi or so. The low side pressures must stay low enough to cause the refrigerant to change states in the evaporator. If you see frost on the compressor suction line, there's too much refrigerant, and you'll overload the compressor. The correct approach, if you have the equipment and it sounds like you must have a gauge set but you need recovery to do this right, is to evacuate the sealed system, (a tight system will hold a vacuum overnight, but an hour is a good test if you suspect any leaks) and refill with the exact amount of refrigerant (by weight) as indicated on the ID tag.. Any system that will not perform when filled to that specification has either a bad valve in the compressor, or a restriction caused by contamination. Contamination is usually from moisture (humidity) introduced into the system by improper servicing, but is usually relieved if the system is under vacuum long enough to boil out the moisture. If the compressor is the culprit, it's usually game-over.

Posted on May 31, 2009

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SOURCE: whats the working pressure of R134a in refrigerator

That question does not have a simple answer. The pressure is directly related to the temperature. You can go on line and get a table showing the pressure vs temperature. I would think 0 is a good starting point for the return temperature. High is also related to temperature. I would expect the high to be about 135 but that depend on ambient etc. You may have to have a licence to tap the refrigeration system and purchase gas depending on your locaton.
Good Luck,
Gilshultz

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

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What your looking for is called a service port. On a 134a system there are two of them, located in the refrigerant lines. One port will be larger diameter than the other. The large one is the "high" side and the small one is the "low" side. refrigerent is added to the low side with the system running. You really should use a manifold gauge set to see what the pressures are before adding any refrigerant. If the system has too much, it is as bad as not enough.

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To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser.
Keep in mind that using an A/C gauge set and seeing BOTH high and low side readings can help in diagnosing the problem when you know what to look for. First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank.

Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) - Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s - Ranges from 25-35 PSI - Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI
Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI

Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better!  Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.

Both low and high side readings are lower than normal, this indicates a cars AC system is low on refrigerant and is under-charged.
If both low and high side readings are too high, this indicates an overcharged system - too much refrigerant. This also can indicate that the condenser fan is not working, is too slow or the car is overheating and heat is transferring from the radiator to the condenser.

Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted be glad to answer any question you may have. And yes the A/C system on your car uses R143a and there is a A/C pressure switch along the low pressure line or on the accumulator, it looks like a oil pressure sensor with a two wire lead cliped on it. 

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1 Answer

The a/c on my 2006 honda pilot is not owrking and appears to have a low refrigerant charge. I want to recharge it and find the leak with die. what is the amount of 134a to be fully charged


Adding freon or topping off a cars A/C system is the most common task performed to restore performance and get cold air blowing again. However, adding refrigerant isn’t always the solution for car air conditioning problems. There can be many other things wrong besides a system being low on refrigerant. To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser.
Keep in mind that using an A/C gauge set and seeing BOTH high and low side readings can help in diagnosing the problem when you know what to look for. First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank.

*Make sure the condenser fan comes on when the readings are being checked.

Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) - Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s - Ranges from 25-35 PSI - Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI
Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI

Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better!  Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.

With the AC on the coldest setting, use a thermometer in a middle vent. Normal vent temperature readings will vary depending on the (ambient) outside temp. The vent temperature should range from around 42-55 degrees in my experience. If normal gauge readings are obtained and the vent air is cold - STOP don’t overcharge the system. The only proper way to remove refrigerant is with a AC recovery machine so if this is being done at home I can’t emphasize enough not to over charge the system. And actually the best way to insure the proper charge is in a system, is to use an AC machine to recover the R143a and then evacuate and recharge the system with the correct amount. Most cars have the specified amount on a decal under the hood. 

Hope this helps. Keep me posted, be glad to help get you cooled again. 

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3 Answers

Want to know operating pressures on a 134a refrigerator low and high


Maximum efficiency is achieved when there is the greatest difference between high side and low side provided the low side stays under 30 psi or so. The low side pressures must stay low enough to cause the refrigerant to change states in the evaporator. If you see frost on the compressor suction line, there's too much refrigerant, and you'll overload the compressor. The correct approach, if you have the equipment and it sounds like you must have a gauge set but you need recovery to do this right, is to evacuate the sealed system, (a tight system will hold a vacuum overnight, but an hour is a good test if you suspect any leaks) and refill with the exact amount of refrigerant (by weight) as indicated on the ID tag.. Any system that will not perform when filled to that specification has either a bad valve in the compressor, or a restriction caused by contamination. Contamination is usually from moisture (humidity) introduced into the system by improper servicing, but is usually relieved if the system is under vacuum long enough to boil out the moisture. If the compressor is the culprit, it's usually game-over.

May 30, 2009 | Electrolux Refrigerators

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