Screws do not hold hood to base

Take the 5 screws out of the bottom of the machine. Then inside the door below the heating element take out the 8 fine thread screws holding the metal pan in. There is also 1 small screw to remove holding the heating element to a porcelain block on back wall. now pry the plastic apart around the bottom and lift it carefully when it separates. Unplugging the lcd control panel from a board mounted inside front side.Now after getting it seperated you will find 5 or 6 screws (cannot remember exactly) that holds metal plate to plastic base, under here is the belt. Watch out for the rubber spacers on the raised plastic between bottom and metal so they can be set back in place on reassembly. Remove belt pieces and replace with your new Gates #537-3M-09 Belt. I got mine from biedlers-belts.com for about 8.33 total belt and shipping. Probably can get it from auto parts or where ever, They usually call them a timing belt.
If you loosen the 3 screws on the motor it will move enough to get the belt on then slide it back to take slack out of belt but not to tight and tighten screws.
Hope this helps and good luck

These cap screws thread into the basket inside the hull of the WingMan. This basket holds the mechanical parts and the potentiometers. If you wish to take a look on the interior of the hull (or case), it's better to open below; the bottom plate is secured by 5 Phillips screws located in the middle of the cushioning rings - except one of them, located nearby. Be careful.

Unfortunately, Oster does not publish any real maintenance manuals. Basically, if you only took apart the cutting blades and the oscillator, it's not too hard. If you tried to take apart the electric motor, that's a whole different story. If it's just the blade assembly, carefully align the blade assembly with the groove pointing into the trimmer handle and hold the blades together so that they are parallel, not crooked and reinsert the screws. You will see how the blades align, based on the wear marks on the bottom blade guide. If you took apart the oscillating arm, then line up the cam pin with the round hole in the arm, then replace the screws that attach the top blade to the oscillating arm. You may have to push in the tension arm so that you can align the screws with the threaded holes on the handle first. Final step is to screw the bottom blade guide back onto the handle, again align the guide with the blades so that they are parallel and not crooked. The best way to do this is to start threading the screws, then before tightening them all the way, align the blades first. If none of this works, go to this website: http://www.osterstyle.com/CustomerService.aspx and locate an authorized Oster dealer/support center near you. You'll probably have to mail the clippers in to one of the sites.
JB

Hello; There are always screws in the back of the set near the base or screws that go up through the bottom of the base. Most screws are recessed and can be Phillips or Allen type screws. John

Conair trimmers are only good for about a year and they are hard to put back once you have messed with them. does your blade pop off or does it have two phillips screws holding it in? If you take the blade off completely you should see two arms that are in there, you have to place the blades back on correctly and hold them together while putting the screws back in. be very careful not to tighten the screws too much. Oil your blades with 3-1 oil and then turn them on. adjust the trimmer and see if everything is level, if it is try cutting withem and see what happens. If the motor sounds good but the blades are pulling your hair rather then cutting it then you need to replace your trimmers because your blades are daul.

If you are talking about the side where the clutch is, there is a Torx screw inside the hollow part of the clutch housing. Using a #20 Torx bit, loosen screw. If this is the first time on this screw it will be tight and the drive shaft will turn with it. You will have to remove top of cylinder head and put something soft inside the cylinder to stop piston from moving up and down; usually a towel and something stiff like a screwdriver to hold it from moving.
After clutch housing is removed, the clutch itself is threaded and by holding the shaft with pliers you can unscrew the clutch.
Past this, just screws holding the plastic housing.

hi minglim, welocme to the forum!

Replacing a Norelco Shaver Battery Things You'll Need:Torx screwdriver set Rechargeable Ni-Cd AA battery 1)Slide up the sideburns trimmer on the shaver .2)Try the various torx head screwdriver sizes to find the fit for the two screws holding the top of the back shaver cover on. Unscrew the two screws that are under the sideburns trimmer that hold the back of the shaver on. On some Norelco shavers, the back will now slide off if you apply downward pressure on the shaver's back. Other Norelco shavers have one or two torx screws on the base of the back cover on the shaver; if so, unscrew them also. Place the screws in a safe place. 3)Take the back cover off the shaver. Some shavers may have a strap fastening the battery down. Unfasten the strap if there is one. Take out the battery. 4)Replace the old battery with a new rechargeable Ni-Cd AA battery. Re-fasten the battery holding strap if there was one. 5)Replace the back shaver cover and re-screw in all the torx screws,

do the screws undo or do the brass inserts pull out of the body housing which the retaining screws fit into.
if the screws undo put some thread lock on the threads.
if its the brass inserts you will need to replace the mainbody.

You're going to take off like 20 screws including the ones that hold the handle and the hood at the base of the blade. You open it like a clamshell. There is a black plastic cover at the very bottom that covers the gear wheels (one tiny wheel that comes from the motor and a large wheel that actually moves both blades back and forth). The black plastic cover is no attached with screws. You just remove it so you can get to the gears. Now you oil and manipulate the large gear wheel until it comes loose and you can see the blades move back and forth. Put the whole thing back together and you are ready to go!

http://www.uktsupport.co.uk/scanner/agfa/arcus.htm#a2lamp

Turn off the scanner power switch and disconnect the power plug. Wait at least 15 minutes to allow the unit to cool down.

Unscrew the two screws at the back of the base.

Pull the SCSI board out enough to disconnect the ribbon cable that threads through the opening in the base (on the right).

Remove the two screws from the upper portion of the back of the base.

Remove the Transparency Option (TPO) from the base.

Remove the two screws from the top back of the base. These screws will be visible when the Transparency option is removed.

Remove the two screws from the top front of the base and lift the plastic housing off the scanner.

Move the carriage optical assembly backward until you can reach the lamp.

Remove the two screws from the top of the optical assembly that covers the bulb and remove the black cover.

Lift the lamp from the socket, working one end, then the other.

Replace the lamp with a replacement lamp. One replacement lamp is provided with the scanner and others are available through Agfa Parts Order.

Return the lamp cover the original position and replace the two screws.

Replace the plastic housing and replace the four screws holding the housing.

Thread the ribbon cable of the Transparency Option through the base and plug back into the SCSI board.

Return the board to the base and tighten the two screws. This insures a slack cable that won't be punctured when screws are put in to attach the transparency module to the base unit.

Replace the two screws in the back of the base to secure the Transparency Option to the base.