An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Side-by-side refrigerator not working
All frost-free refrigerator-freezers have a thing in the system called
a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks
accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles
through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the
humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is
not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the
coils to chill the inside of the box. The Defrost timer in all boxes
fails eventually from old age. When that happens, the coils frost over
until they become pretty much just a solid block of ice. Your case may
however be the exception, as it seems perhaps that the timer quit during
a defrost cycle. Most timers
are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille
under the door. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can
be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is not running, give
shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor should start.
If it does, check the fridge in 12 hours to make sure it is not stopped
again. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a
while. You will need to get a replacement timer. If that doesn't make
it take off you should call a servicer. Hope this helps.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Check/do the following: Note: You may need the service of a
qualified technician to do the job. The compressor and condenser are not user serviceable.
Check for any open or burnt wiring and rewire if necessary.
Check fuses and circuit breakers.
Check and reset overload relay.
Turn the thermostat knob to the proper setting.
Pullout the capacitor and check it. Using an ohmmeter,
connect the test leads to the capacitor terminals. Do the same with the
test leads in reverse.The pointer must deflect to the right and
smoothly moves back to the left. Otherwise capacitor is defective.
Replace it with the same specifications.
If compressor and capacitor is found okay, check for
open thermostat. Unplug the unit and connect test leads of ohmmeter to
the plug terminals. Turn the thermostat knob. The ohmmeter pointer must
deflect, otherwise replace thermostat.
If all of the showed no problem then you probably have a low refrigerant in your unit. Check for any leak and recharge.
That is the first sign of not defrosting. Look into the rear panel in back of freezer and see if frost is forming on that back panel. If yes then you will need to unplug and remove that panel to inspect the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If they check out then we need to inspect both sides of the mother control board for burn marks or signs of heat damage. The 1467835 Control Board is located on the back and enclosed inside a plastic housing. The same circuit board also list as part number 241511101 Check the freezer first to see if the defrost heater may be bad. Need an OHM meter and take one wire off of one end to test. I will walk you through this if you want, Sea Breeze
Most times that is a sign of a defrost problem. And because yours has the defrost board made onto the mother board we will need to do some looking around for the problem. Unplug refrigerator and pull away from wall. On back there is a cover over an area that contains the mother board. With power off take the board loose and examine the board for burn marks, sign's of heat or melted away solder connections. If the board looks OK the return it to its place and remove the rear panel in the freezer section. Need you to disconnect one end wire on the defrost element/heater. Check continuity through the heater to make sure there is no burnout. The defrost thermostat is connected to one end of the defrost heater. The contacts are open when the temperature is 50 degrees or higher, so testing it would look bad above 50 degrees. Just look to see if there is any deformity. If defrost thermostat is defective it will not allow the defrost heater to engage or to remain on long enough. Let me know what you fins. Sea Breeze
this is a problem that is no stranger to most GE side by sides; GE has used a glass type defrost heater in the freezer which often fails. If you manually defrost your appliance (unplug and leave doors open for 24 hrs) then plug back in, it will appear to work normally for a few days and gradually build up frost on the evap panel (back panel in the freezer) and eventually the refrigerator side will seem to loose cooling due to frosted damper, or lack of cold air transfer over the evap coil. The fix for this is to replace the defrost heaters (s). While not as common, defrost thermostats can open causing the unit to skip defrost, and even less likely is the defrost control (either mechanical timer or adaptive defrost). First, defrost your appliance, then remove the evap panel and ohm out the heater(s), if open, replace. If they check ok, check your defrost thermostat (small disc like object attached by a clip on the evap. coil itself) for signs of popping open or open ohm readings at normally closed temperatures. Its a good idea to change this anyway when replacing defrost heaters as the two work hand in hand. Last, check the defrost timer by manually advancing the screw advance clockwise until you hear the first click, then check voltage to the defrost heater and thermostat, if no voltage present replace timer. If your appliance is equipped with a adaptive defrost board, refer to the schematic for proper diagnostics.
There are several things that could shut off your unit. If you are shutting the breaker off for longer than a few minutes, the compressor might be cooling off during that time, thus allowing it to turn back on. It also might be shutting off because of the pressure switches located on the refrigerant lines. Please let me know if you need anymore information.
Check inside back wall of the freezer for frost buildup. It would be a sign that the defrost system is not working and the coil inside the back wall is frozen over stopping air circulation to the refrigerator. Defrost system has a timer that energizes a heater and a defrost termination switch which shuts off the heaters when the coil is warm enough for all ice to be melted. If you have the frost, locate the defrost timer and turn the clutch head screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click, the compressor will shut off and the system will be in defrost. After 18-22 minutes the refrigerator should restart automatically. If it does not restart after 25 Minutes turn the timer screw again to the second click. Refrigerator will then start. Replace the timer.
If it restarts after the 18-22 minutes and does not defrost ether the heater or defrost thermostat is bad.
CHECK THE DEFROST HEATER FOR CONTINUITY. IF IT IS O.K. CHECK THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL FOR A FAULTY SOLDER CONNECTION ON THE DEFROST RELAY. THE ELECTRONIC BOARD SHOULD BE LOCATED ON THE BACK WALL OF THE REFIGERATOR BEHIND AN ACCESS PANEL.