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Our Maytag refrigerator/freezer does not freeze. There is frost buildup around the coils in the freezer compartment. I manually defrosted the coils yesterday, and replaced the defrost thermostat, but today it is frosting up again, while nothing in the compartment freezes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The unit is only about 5-1/2 years old. Thank you

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Can you please provide the model number that will help me to assist you better.

Thanks

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha May 19, 2009




    Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
    coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.







    Evaporator coils

    Poor cooling is often the result of
    a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils
    without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there
    is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls,
    floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a
    problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

    The
    refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24
    hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the
    refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds
    up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the
    coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy,
    but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is
    quite limited.

    Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to
    determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the
    perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the
    refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to
    have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan
    to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost
    and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a
    normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem
    with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:




    • The defrost timer



    • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



    • The defrost heater

    If it still does not cool properly,
    there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may
    need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose
    the problem






    Condenser

    Self-defrosting refrigerators all
    have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need
    to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the
    refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black,
    wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect
    the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see
    the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of
    any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from
    the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the
    rear of the refrigerator.


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