Wont start cold 10 degrees or so

You don't say whether it is petrol or diesel engined or whether the engine is cranking fine but won't fire.

Certainly an engine must crank quick enough but even then if it is the best diesel engine ever made it is unlikely to start below freezing without an artificial starting aid. Such an aid is already installed but must be in good condition. Heater plugs do fail sometimes or get tired and lazy so they need checking and sometimes the timer relay fails to switch them on. Good injector spray patterns are also needed for good starting.

Petrol engines need enrichment of the fuel/air mixture for cold starting and a very good spark at the plugs. Worn spark plugs is the most common cause of poor starting and if the ECU isn't getting the right information about temperature it will be unable to make the correct fuel adjustments.
A good injector spray pattern is also important.

Lots to think about...

If you want it to start with a start motor, driven from a battery, my guess is the battery is in bad condition. Normally a battery will perform less when temperature is going down, but an old or worn out battery can't perform at all when it is cold. I would check that first. Just take a good battery to start one of them and see what happens. Then see if you want to replace them.

battery is too low rating for car to start in winter. Or battery has bad cell and will hold a full charge needed to start, or the alternator is not putting out a full charge to the battery .......

Gas or electric?
Electric water heater ... then test for crossover, check for water leak, replace thermostats, test elements
Gas water heater ... test for crossover, check for water leak
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

water leak: turn off all taps and put ear against pipe and listen for water leak... check if water meter advances when all water taps are off.

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Many residential refrigerator / freezers are designed to work at temperature considerably above above freezing. Most modern refrigerator / freezer have a single electric thermostat - located in the fresh food compartment. This lone thermostat will control the compressor to keep the fridge (fresh food) section at the desired temperature (usually between 34 - 38 degrees F). The freezer will get colder regardless of how cold it is already whenever the fridge thermostat turns the compressor on.

Now that you see how the thermostat works, let's look at what happens when the fridge is placed in an unheated space - like a garage. In winter time, the temperature can drop considerably below 38 degrees. If the outdoor temperature remains cold enough, for long enough - it will affect the thermostat in the fridge. The temperature inside the fridge could drop below 38 degrees, preventing the thermostat from telling the compressor to turn on. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer compartment slowly rises from the normal -10 to 0 F degrees. It will continue to rise until it is the same temperature as the fresh food compartment or until the thermostat in the fresh food compartment tells the compressor to turn on again. This means the freezer contents will thaw.

If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.

Good luck!

Somewhere along the electronic side you have a faulty component thats failing when the temperature drops ,what it is and where it is i have no idea at all it could be in the computer ,in a module somewhere and as iam a europeon mechanic whos never seen this model before i just cannot tell you were to look first .The fault though iam familiar with as had this on more than one occasion and older cars it was the ignition module but this is incorperated into the ECU on more modern motors .

Hi,
The best thing for you to do is to call Mitsubishi Tech. Support directly..they are first class and will probably know exactly what the issue is...

For technical application questions, please call:
Mr. Slim: 1-800-433-4822 (press option #3).

heatman101

Good day,
Not really. Domestic refrigerators are designed to operate in an environment where people live.
Most all manufacturers recommend that they not be placed in an area that goes below 55 degrees.
At any temperature below that it starts to degrade.
Cold enough and it will not work at all.
The reason is once the fresh food compartment reaches it's normal temperature of 33-37 degrees, it shuts the whole machine off.
That is by design, on any refrigerator like yours that has only one compressor and cooling fan motor.

As well, there are other issues. In that situation, the machine could well stay off 12 to even 24 hours.
The compressor has an oil sump in it, and the oil becomes very thick. When it finally tries to start, it creates a very stressful situation for the compressor, and could substantialy reduce it's life.