Question about Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: roper dryer won't heat
first thing is check the voltage between the black and red terminals at the back of the dryer. you should read 240v. then check the voltage between the balck and the white and the red and the white. there should be 120v at each. if all that is good remove the back of the dryer. make sure you unplug it first. then no the lower right you will see the heater. near the top of the heater you will see a red wire and a red/with a white stripe wire attached to the high limit cutout. remove one wier and check the switch for continuity. if you read nothing its bad and thats why there is o heat. Ifnit checks good replace the wire and then remove one red wire from the heater. then check the heater with your meter. most times on the whirlpool products its one of the two that is bad. check the two thing I described and if you still need help feel free to get back to me and we can go from there.Good luck
Posted on Aug 22, 2007
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
On the back side of the dryer sits the heater and various safety clixons. Any of them that would be OPEN ( no continuity) would be the problem. Here are some repair pictures
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
SOURCE: My dryer roper model number
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
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