Question about Heating & Cooling
My Heil model CH5024UKB3 is running in heat mode and blowing warm air inside (no air handler issues) and colder air outside (as it should). However the condenser is clicking and shuddering every 5 second. The fan is running but stalls briefly when the click occurs and then spins back up to speed immediately. The unit was manufactured in 1993, so this may be a dead dance, but might it be something simple to repair?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
SOURCE: ruud heat pump outside fan
You may be right in looking at the motor. It uses a different speed on heat than cool. The heat cycle uses low speed, usually red. Some manufactures use blue (medium). Cool uses black, high speed. If you are confident, switch the low speed wire with the high speed and see if this changes anything. If the fan motor isn't the problem, check the other setting (cool) if the overload trips, you may need to look into a new capacitor or compressor, if so, you can install a hard start kit. these are start boosters, and are inexpensice, sometimes they will give another year out of the comp. but I've put them on and they have lasted 5 years.
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
almost has to be the electric heat strip coils. they usually come on in stages. when the damaged strip comes on it kicks breaker. turn off all power, check with a meter , gently remove strips and inspect for broken or shorted coils. usually best to buy a new heat strip module. they are usually held in place as a module with 4 screws and a snap together wire connector .good luck. i have had some success if the wires are broken and not to brittle by bending a minute loop in the end of each wire and reconnect with the tiniest screw and washer and nut you can find, i'm talking real tiny. about the size of a bb if you can find em , or you can remove the damaged strip wire entirely to get some heat from remaining.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
I can tell you exaclty whats wrong . and it sounds like multipart problems. you have an old RUUD heat pump and its reversing vavle is stuck. without that valve opening it will contantly try to run in refrigerant mode to make heat. and here its 26 degrees, het pumps are only made to be effiient in over 34 degrees and that why your electric heaters in the blower section in an in a closit of unit
continously running up you eectric bill big time. cuses for the reversing valve to stick are sitting along time when it was low on refrigernt. or ust plain shut depending on its age. that cicking is the relay trying to open or close the reversing valve swict to make pressure again. any local guy an fix that one. theyre are kits called hard start kits that they hook up to them that shoot an extra zap of jiuse in it to try to free it up if its not totally lockd up being though that you still hear the relays pulling in and out thats good you may have just caught it in time.
now here is a quick test and possible cure but only if you what your doing turn both units off take off the top cover of the old rudd and get a small hammer not a sledgehammer and rap and tap all around the reversing valve. it will be a cylindrical tube black usually have sets of copper or brass tubings going in the 2 sides of this so dont hit itthat hard it gets dents it and is ruined. look for oil spots which uually means the refrigerant leaked out , and its seized up for good. they try spinning around the big out door fan door fan some. you may have to rock it back and forth Till it braks lose but dont put super human efort int it,
than put it all bak together making sure you connected wires back up right. go in and have you wife eithe watch it or you do it and switch the breker on and off about 8 times to trying to get the cnnectors switches to stay in and if your brave take a well insulated screw driver and hold them in for 2-4 miuntes to force it to work. if that doesnt do it call your local repairman and tell him you need a hard startkit only much safer, the cost about 40$ but you labor will be high if he is sent alone so may you can help im out and lessen your bill if the valve cant be made to work again. you may want start looking for prices with that model and serial number and d shut that electric heater off some one to replace it . I hope I helped you out some no charge ( I dont have my Pay Pal acct. set up yet ) good luck tom.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
I am pretty sure you have a low charge and the pressure switch is kicking it off. probably just a pound or two however the accumulater will sometimes hold more.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
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