Question about Genesis Onyx 29" Cruiser Bicycle

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Assembly manual how do i remove the arm the pedal is attached to???

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To remove the crank (the arm the pedal is attached to), you'll need a special tool. I got mine at a bike shop. (Bike shops are our friends.) I use the Park Tools CWP-7. It's pretty much a big bolt with a smaller bolt going through it. You'll remove the cap covering the spindle bolt (if it hasn't fallen out already), remove the bolt that holds the crank are onto the spindle, then thread the "big bolt" part of the tool into the threads for the cap on the crank. You'll then screw the inside bolt into the big bolt, which will push the crank arm off of the spindle.

Posted on Jan 07, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Recumbant bike makes aclunking sound whe pedaled


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

1

Prepare to oil by filling a grease gun with lithium grease. Check your owner's manual for the exact type of grease for your unit.

2

Locate where it is you need to lubricate. Focus on the bearings, free-moving joints and attachments with moving parts such as handle bars, wheels, pedals arms and guide rails. Go to each location one by one when greasing.

3

Unfasten the bolts or screws that hold the joint or attachment that you wish to lubricate.

4

Grease each bolt and screw liberally. Tighten each bolt and screw back into its place when finished.

5

Wipe away any excess grease
Loose Pedals

1

Kneel next to the left side of the elliptical's base. Use the Phillips screwdriver to tighten the two screws located in the center of the left pedal.

2

Use the Allen wrench to remove the bolt securing the left pedal arm to the pedal leg and body arm. Use the Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the rear end of the pedal leg to the crank arm.

3

Pull the end of the pedal leg free of the crank arm. Wipe the crank arm clean, then apply a fresh coating of machine grease or silicone lubricant. Replace the end of the pedal leg back onto the crank arm and use the previously removed screw to secure it back into place.

4

Join the front end of the left pedal arm to the ends of the pedal leg and body arm. Use the previously removed bolt to connect the pieces together.

5

Move to the right side of the elliptical and repeat the above steps on the right pedal arm

Dec 09, 2013 | Exercise & Fitness

Tip

How to replace a chain with master link on a Schwinn Airdyne


Airdyne Chain Replacement with Master link

This video will demonstrate how to replace the chain with master link on a Schwinn Airdyne.
  • First remove the cotter pin and clevis pin from the user's right handlebar. Then lower the connecting arm and handlebar.
Caution: be sure to hold the handlebar as it will come loose after removal of the above parts.
  • Remove the connecting arm and pedal and crank arm by removing the wedge pin. To simplify this process loosen the nut and tap on it with a small hammer until the pin is loosened.
  • Remove the nut, wedge pin, crank arm and connecting arm.
  • Next remove the chain guard; there are three screws attaching it as shown in the video.
  • Remove the chain by locating the master link. Remove the lock pin and the cover, and then disconnect the chain.
  • Place the new chain on the sprockets as shown in the video.
  • Install the master link, cover and lock.
  • Re-install the chain guard and attaching screws.
  • Re-assemble the connecting arm to the handlebar and eccentric.
  • Be sure the brass bushing is installed in the front inner side of the connecting arm before installing the clevis pin and cotter pin.
  • Install the crank arm with pedal.
Be sure when completing this step that the crank arm is installed in the opposite position as the users left side crank arm.
  • Install the nut onto the wedge pin and tighten.
  • This completes the procedure.
Replacing Schwinn Airdyne Chain with Master Link

on May 23, 2016 | Schwinn Airdyne Exercise Bike

Tip

Drive Hub, Spring Pulley & Chain Replacement for Steppers


Video about the Drive Hub Replacement Procedure for Stairmaster Steppers

  • This videocovers replacing the spring pulley, the step chain and the drive hub assembly on the Stairmaster steppers
  • Tools needed:
    • Snap Ring Pliers
    • Tip Kit for Snap Ring Pliers
    • Socket Wrench
    • 7/16" Socket
    • 7/16" Wrench
    • Needle Nose or Standard Pliers
    • Safety Goggles
  • Begin by disconnecting the spring
  • Do this by pulling up on the spring and unhooking the spring from the frame post
  • Next, using the snap ring pliers and proper tips, remove the snap ring from the spring pulley shaft
    **Important: Be sure to wear safety goggles when working with snap rings**
  • Remove and inspect the spring pulley for any flat spots replacing the pulley if necessary
    • Flat spots develop over time and can result in roughness in the pedals
  • On the side that the pulley was just removed, slowly press the pedal down
  • Remove the step chain retainer brackets (if equipped) using the 7/16" wrench, 7/16" socket and socket wrench
  • Once the retainer bracket is removed, the spring can be lifted up over the drive sprocket and disconnected from the chain
    • The spring is opened at one end to allow for maneuvering over the link
  • Using the standard or needle nose pliers, remove the master link attaching the step chain to the pedal arm
    • Place one jaw of the pliers against the open end of the clip (if installed correctly, the open end of the clip is opposite the direction of chain travel) and the other jaw of the pliers against the far side of the nearest rivet coming through the keeper link; and squeeze pliers together
    • This should pop the clip free allowing you to remove it from the master link
    • Next remove the link bar
    • Finally remove the master link disconnecting the chain from the pedal arm
  • Inspect the new step chain making sure all the chain links flex
    • Manufacturer recommends lubricating the step chain with 30W motor oil using a clean rag to remove any excess
  • Attach the new step chain to the pedal arm reversing the steps taken to disconnect the chain
  • Relieve tension on the opposite spring by lifting up on the spring and unhooking it from the frame post
  • Slowly press the pedal down
  • Feed the spring around the pulley and lift the chain up over the sprocket to move it out of the way
  • Disconnect the remaining two bolts from the drive hub assembly
  • Lift the drive chain over the sprocket and pull the drive hub from the frame
    • As the drive hub assembly starts to develop problems, you may feel clicking, hear some grinding sounds, or a pedal may stick in one position (which usually happens on one side); All of which are indicators of a worn drive hub assembly
    • The drive hub can be replaced as a complete unit
      • The drive hub consists of (3) sprockets
        • Two one way clutch sprockets that drive in one direction and slip in the opposite direction which are for the step chains
        • A larger sprocket that spins either direction and is for the drive chain
    • An inspection of the drive hub can help determine need for replacement
          • If either of the one way clutch sprockets slip in both directions, they need replaced
          • If there is a catch in any of the sprockets in any position, then it likely needs replaced
  • Reinstall the drive hub the same way it was removed
  • Slip the drive chain over the drive sprocket before mounting the hub assembly to the frame
    • The drive hub assembly on the SC916 stepper only has 4 bolt positions. The drive hub assembly on the 4400 and 4600 steppers has bolt holes all around the hub allowing the hub to be rotated for chain tension adjustment. The SC916 stepper has a preset tension and the adjustment is no longer necessary
  • Once the drive hub is bolted to the frame, reinstall the step chains on each side
  • Place the free end of the step chain (opposite the pedal arm connection) up over the step chain sprocket
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull down on the step chain
  • Place a hand on the sprocket keeping the step chain from feeding back and allowing the pedal to drop
  • Grab the spring with your opposite hand and join the spring to the step chain
  • Once the spring is attached to the chain, press the pedal down again
  • Reinstall the spring pulley and the snap ring onto the pulley shaft
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull the spring to route through the pulley, hooking the spring onto its frame post
  • Repeat these steps to attach the step chain and spring on the opposite side
  • Reinstall the step chain brackets (if equipped) making sure all bolts face the same direction
  • This concludes the video demonstration of replacing the drive hub, spring pulley and chains on the Stairmaster steppers

Spring Pulley Chain Drive Hub Replacement Video for Stairmaster Stepper...

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Windshield wiper moter went out i need to change it out. how do i change it?


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove both wiper arm and blade assemblies.
  3. Remove the cowl grille attaching screws and lift the cowl grille slightly.
  4. Disconnect the washer nozzle hose and remove the cowl grille assembly.
  5. Remove the wiper linkage clip from the motor output arm.
  6. Disconnect the wiper motor's wiring connector.
  7. Remove the wiper motor's three attaching screws and remove the motor. To install:
  8. Install the motor and attach the three attaching screws. Tighten to 60-85 inch lbs.
  9. Connect wiper motor's wiring connector.
  10. Install wiper linkage clip to the motor's output arm.
  11. Connect the washer nozzle hose and install the cowl assembly and attaching screws.
  12. Install both wiper arm assemblies.
  13. Connect the negative battery cable.

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Installing the wiper arm connecting clip.


tecnovative_159.gif

Feb 25, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

How do you disconnect the brakebooster rod from the brake pedal on a 1998 4x4 z71chevy truck? how do you take the plastic conector off?? pics would help


  1. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Use line wrenches and remove the brake lines on the master cylinder. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the nuts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Lay it down with the line holes up to prevent leakage. The brake activator rod must be removed next---this is attached to the top of the brake pedal arm.
  2. There are two types of brake light switches. One is mounted remotely and has a button that is depressed by the brake pedal when it is released that creates an open circuit and turns the lights off. When the brake pedal is depressed, the button is released and allowed to extend, creating a completed circuit and turning the brake lights on. These are adjustable. All that needs to be done to adjust these switches is to adjust them where they are making contact with the arm of the brake pedal when the pedal is released. The second type is a switch that is directly attached to the brake pedal where the activator rod and pedal arm are attached with a through pin.
  3. Remove the bottom portion of the driver's side dash to gain access to the activator rod. Remove the clip or spring lock from the side of the pin holding the activator rod to the brake pedal. Disconnect the electrical connector to the brake light switch. Rotate the switch upward and dislodge the brake activator rod from the brake pedal arm. Remove the electrical switch. Using a long 3/8-inch drive extension with a swivel and a 15 mm socket, remove the four nuts under the dash on the firewall holding the brake booster to the firewall. Unplug the vacuum line to the booster and remove the vacuum booster from the firewall.
  4. Install the new booster, keeping the brake activator rod on the inboard side of the brake pedal arm. Go under the dash and install the nuts retaining the booster to the firewall and tighten. Install the brake switch over the brake pedal. Hold the electrical end up while the activator rod is pulled and inserted over the retaining pin on the brake pedal arm.
  5. Install the retaining clip on the retaining spring and connect the electrical connector to the switch. Install the lower dash panel. Install the vacuum hose to the brake booster. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts. Install the brake lines to the master cylinder and attach the electrical connector. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.
  6. Have someone sit in the car while you loosen the front brake line on the master cylinder. Have the person helping push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Once the pedal is to the floor, tighten the brake line and repeat the procedure for the rear line. Recheck the level in the master cylinder and fill with brake fluid as needed.

Oct 29, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

My clutch was wokin good and then all of a suddent there was no pressure on my clutch so i checked and it had to dot 3 fluid in it so i put sum in but it leaked it out rite away it came out on driverside...


It sounds like the rubber seal on the Clutch Slave Cylinder piston has completely failed. You will need to replace the Slave Cylinder Assembly. To replace, undo the union nut that attaches the pipe from the master cylinder and then undo the bolts that attach the assembly to the engine/transmission. Remove the push rod from the old cylinder and place in the new. Reattach Cylinder Assembly and pipe, making sure push rod engages in socket of clutch operating fork. Bleeding the system is as follows.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line). It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.

Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.

It also pays to check that the clutch pedal free travel is within specification (about ¼ inch measured at the pedal rubber) to ensure the hydraulic system works properly. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.

Oct 12, 2010 | 1994 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

My son has the Huffy rock out bike. The pedal fell off, and so I was sent the whole single arm crank and new pedals. I have no owners manual, and no assembly instructions whatsoever. Along with the crank...


The reason the pedal fell of is because of a bad set up. Who assembled the bike? If, you did, guess what! You did not tighten the pedal to the crank arm to begin with. If, Walmart or other discount store did it, have them fix it. You have to understand. you bought the bike without professionals putting it together and sometimes that is a problem when you don't have the knowledge of what you are doing. You have to pay one way or another. When you let a kid ride a bike that is not assembled correctly you are endangering them. My advice is :Get it fixed right.

Sep 16, 2010 | Huffy Cycling

2 Answers

I have a Kirby G5 and need to replace the gear drive shaft, as the lever inside fell off and the shaft came out. (Common problem by the sound of it.) How do i remove the actual gearbox itself. I have...


I have never touched a Kirby vacuum before and my wife had the same issue. The neutral/drive pedal just fell out so I figured I would give it a shot to see if I could fix it and quickly figured out the 3 screws in the bottom plate for the drive unit wasn't the answer.



I was able to figure things out out after I found a parts list with diagrams at the follow web site and address:



Vac Parts Warehouse.com

http://www.vacpartswarehouse.com/category-s/2821.htm



The two parts involved are:

13. Bracket Cam Assembly Neutral Drive Pedal 557689A

16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A



Here's how to get to a point that you can get these two parts in/out of the machine.



- Remove bag and fill tube from handle and main unit

- Remove floor nozzle assembly

- Remove the handle via the two screws at the handle fork plate (these have loctite on them so needed a socket wrench with torex bits to get them out).

- Remove the plastic rear scuff plate vie the screw with the power cord anchor and screw by the Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive. Note release plastic tab in slot in the center and lift from the back and then over the base where the handle attaches.


I did not do this as I removed the the power drive assembly so I could figure out how to put the dive assembly back together. The pressed on arm that drives the cam assembly had pulled of the pedal shaft so this also made it easier to fish out the parts and experiment on positioning the arm in the right spot . I found the arm and a spring washer inside.



I assume at this point you could loosen the screw (don't remove it, it's the only one with a star lock washer on it) on the bottom plate that attaches the Bracket Cam Assembly and slide the Pedal Cam out and a new one in if you can get the part and replace it. The part was 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A at Vac Parts Warehouse.com. The one listed on the website said it was for a G6 even though the parts listing is for a G5 so I don't know....



To continue to disassemble and take the power drive assembly out:

- Remove the 4 screws from the Cover Shell assembly - the metal top part. You do not need to remove the hinged Headlight Cap that is attached to it.

- Remove the 4 screw from the bracket assembly that has the handle attachment and forward/reverse switch. It attached by two wires. I only disconnect one and swung it to the side.

- Snap off the the on/off switch and disconnect from the Actuating Rod Foot Pedal to Power Switch.

- Remove the 3 screw from the bottom plate of the power drive assembly.

- Remove the drive belt.

- The power drive assembly will now drop out the bottom.



I just put the spring washer and arm back on the shaft and reassembled. I'll see how long that lasts before before buying the new part.



Have fun.

Aug 08, 2010 | Kirby G5 Bagged Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

How do you get a power booster off a 1999 town and country van?


Your power brake booster is bolted to the rear engine compartment, or firewall, from the inside , so you need to disconnect the rod from the brake pedal, and locate and remove the bolts that hold it. You also have to unbolt your brake master cylinder too.

Nov 16, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler Town & Country

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