Question about Genesis Onyx 29" Cruiser Bicycle
To remove the crank (the arm the pedal is attached to), you'll need a special tool. I got mine at a bike shop. (Bike shops are our friends.) I use the Park Tools CWP-7. It's pretty much a big bolt with a smaller bolt going through it. You'll remove the cap covering the spindle bolt (if it hasn't fallen out already), remove the bolt that holds the crank are onto the spindle, then thread the "big bolt" part of the tool into the threads for the cap on the crank. You'll then screw the inside bolt into the big bolt, which will push the crank arm off of the spindle.
Posted on Jan 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Oct 29, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500
It sounds like the rubber seal on the Clutch Slave Cylinder piston has completely failed. You will need to replace the Slave Cylinder Assembly. To replace, undo the union nut that attaches the pipe from the master cylinder and then undo the bolts that attach the assembly to the engine/transmission. Remove the push rod from the old cylinder and place in the new. Reattach Cylinder Assembly and pipe, making sure push rod engages in socket of clutch operating fork. Bleeding the system is as follows.
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line). It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.
It also pays to check that the clutch pedal free travel is within specification (about ¼ inch measured at the pedal rubber) to ensure the hydraulic system works properly. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.
Oct 12, 2010 | 1994 GMC Sierra
Sep 16, 2010 | Huffy Cycling
I have never touched a Kirby vacuum
before and my wife had the same issue. The neutral/drive pedal just fell
out so I figured I would give it a shot to see if I could fix it and
quickly figured out the 3 screws in the bottom plate for the drive
unit wasn't the answer.
I was able to figure things out out after I found
a parts list with diagrams at the follow web site and address:
Vac Parts Warehouse.com
The two parts involved are:
13. Bracket Cam Assembly Neutral Drive
16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive
Here's how to get to a point that you
can get these two parts in/out of the machine.
- Remove bag and fill tube from handle
and main unit
- Remove floor nozzle assembly
- Remove the handle via the two screws
at the handle fork plate (these have loctite on them so needed a
socket wrench with torex bits to get them out).
- Remove the plastic rear scuff plate
vie the screw with the power cord anchor and screw by the Pedal Cam
For Neutral Drive. Note release plastic tab in slot in the center and
lift from the back and then over the base where the handle attaches.
I did not do this as I removed the the
power drive assembly so I could figure out how to put the dive
assembly back together. The pressed on arm that drives the cam
assembly had pulled of the pedal shaft so this also made it easier to
fish out the parts and experiment on positioning the arm in the right spot . I found the arm and a spring washer inside.
I assume at this point you could
loosen the screw (don't remove it, it's the only one with a star
lock washer on it) on the bottom plate that attaches the Bracket Cam
Assembly and slide the Pedal Cam out and a new one in if you can
get the part and replace it. The part was 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For
Neutral Drive G6 558499A at Vac Parts Warehouse.com. The one listed
on the website said it was for a G6 even though the parts listing is
for a G5 so I don't know....
To continue to disassemble and take
the power drive assembly out:
- Remove the 4 screws from the Cover
Shell assembly - the metal top part. You do not need to remove the
hinged Headlight Cap that is attached to it.
- Remove the 4 screw from the bracket
assembly that has the handle attachment and forward/reverse switch.
It attached by two wires. I only disconnect one and swung it to the
- Snap off the the on/off switch and
disconnect from the Actuating Rod Foot Pedal to Power Switch.
- Remove the 3 screw from the bottom
plate of the power drive assembly.
- Remove the drive belt.
- The power drive assembly will now
drop out the bottom.
I just put the spring washer and arm
back on the shaft and reassembled. I'll see how long that lasts
before before buying the new part.
Aug 08, 2010 | Kirby G5 Bagged Upright Vacuum
Nov 16, 2009 | 1999 Chrysler Town & Country
Mar 23, 2014 | Genesis Onyx 29" Cruiser Bicycle
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