My electric drill does not run anymore because its power supply is already damaged. It takes 6V and can rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise direction. It has a built inn battery which is rechargeable. I want to build a new power supply. Is there any schematic here diagram here?
Its sounds to me like an old drill and i would suggest probaly getting a new one, But if you love that one so much and would like some more life out of it you can easily connect it to a car battery (although this will eventually cause the motor to sh!t itself as car battery is 12 volts, but running the drill on a lower speed will help with the)
take the drill apart and find where the power goes to the motor (there will no doubt one goin through/connected to the trigger this will be the main power aka positive lead) using long wire (as you want to be able to move from the car battery) connect the terminals appropriatley with the positive and negative goin to the motor if it doesnt work you have it the wrong way around.
i know this because i have done it . god luck
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The PWR/AMT knob:
PWR: Variable RF Output Power. The transmitted power of the Magnum S-6 may be varied from 0 to 40 watts peak in all modes. Rotate clockwise to increase RF output power. Rotate counterclockwise to decrease RF output power.
AMT: All Mode Talk Back. AMT, a Magnum exclusive, is an independent talk back monitor. The AMT functions in all modes and allows the operator to monitor the trans- mitted audio of the Magnum S-6. To increase the vol- ume of the talk back rotate the control clockwise. To decrease rotate counterclockwise. To turn off the talk back rotate the control completely counterclockwise.
The connection is made at the bottom of unit.
should be standard garden hose.
sometimes I find if I gently hold hose against connection point then rotate counterclockwise until I feel a click! then ( without lifting hose) rotate clockwise and hose should now be threaded onto power washer.
If the generator has been sitting for a long time or was shut off with the load connected it has likely lost the residual magnetism that is required to excite the winding. This is a common problem. Always disconnect the load from the generator before stopping the engine!
The generator needs to be flashed. There are several was to achieve this, but safest would be to use an electric drill.
Connect an older style portable 120 volt drill to the running generator.
Make sure the drill is in forward not reverse
With the switch depressed rotate by hand the chuck of the drill in reverse
careful, the generator will flash, power up and rotate the drill in the forward direction..
Hope this helps?
Careful the generator will flash the windings and power up the drill
Sometimes there is a screw in the middle inside the chuck remove the inside screw beware to get it out turn it allways clockwise instead of counterclockwise. it that was done but the chuck itself must be turn off counterclockwise. SImply take the most great possible allen wrench set it in and converts the longest section firmly in a vise or other good fixative object (always wear safety glasses )and if its possible turn in the left make power connection and keep the machine firmly and give the case even with the rotational force a short brisk turn, and then he runs quietly from the ashes.
from a Jacobs chuck with a key to a keyless chuck, I think, but if no screw inside is present , heat the chuck slowly with a gas heater and use a preferred green colored loctite for screwless chucks to remove is the same way as described.
The camera's firmware has sensed a jam or too slow rotation in the cassette's take-up roller. Really difficult to overcome. The tape may already be snarled round a roller, but is certainly in the "loaded" tape path. I've had this and had to disassemble the whole tape transport mechanism - which is really difficult - after trying unsuccessfully to drive the unload motor from an external 6v power supply. Sometimes a really hard sideways bang on the camera can free up the roller enough to let it rotate a bit, satisfy the motion sensor and allow an eject.
Lock the spindle (small chrome button near the tool's nose or lever at the power switch). You'll probably need to rotate the spindle by hand as much as one full turn as you do this, to get the lock to drop into place.
With the spindle locked, use your supplied wrench to turn the collet nut counter-clockwise (as seen from the cutter end) about one full turn. The collet should now be plenty loose enough to release the cutter / wheel / drill.
Since I don't have a model number to work with I am going to assume this is a generator with brushes. (I need your model number!)
Having said that... TRY THIS:
1. Plug in an electric drill to the output power plug and turn on the output power switch with the generator running.
2. Squeese the drill trigger switch and rotate the drill chuck as fast as you can. This will flash the field of the generator and often output power starts right away. NOTE: When power starts it will try and twist the drill chuck out of your hand. Just let go of the trigger and the drill chuck.
If you have an inverter type power head the steps are different for flashing the field. The easiest way is to do a male to male power cord from utility supply power connection and turn on the output power switch to re-establish a field in the PMG of the rotor.
There are other steps but without a model number this is what I am sending off at the moment. Respond with a model number if the steps above do not work and I will help you.