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Sansung SW65V9W I took my washing machine apart to clean mould out of the outer drum and when I put it back together the basket will no longer spin on the spin cycle. The agitator spins but the basket won't. It looks like it's a brake or clutch problem.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: washing machine agitator & drum spin during wash cycle

check the dogs in your agitater

Posted on Mar 25, 2008

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SOURCE: Drum spinning during wash cycle

if when in the wash cycle the tub spins then the brake in the cluch assembly is worn and to be replaced. this holds the tub from moving when in the wash cycle. thanks tallpaul

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

  • 942 Answers

SOURCE: no spin - agitate

Hi,

You just do this

  • Test the lid switch
  • Inspect the motor coupler
  • Inspect the drover belt (belt drive only)
  • Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
  • Test the motor
  • Inspect the pulley
  • Test the transmission
  • Inspect the Agitator
  • Inspect the pump coupling
  • Test the Water switch level
Good luck !!!

Regards
PCmania

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 tub spins excessively clockwise during wash cycle.

Improperly installed thrust bearing kit. Too many washers cause the basket to spin during agitation.

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

Testimonial: "Where is the "thrust bearing kit" and how can it be installed properly?"

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Spin cycle on a Whirlpool washing machine does not work

underneath the 2 solenoids that rock when the motor is running are 2 vertical metal actuating arms. With the lid closed and in the spin cycle this arm is moved by the rocking soleniod actuator that is pulled up by the solenoid when the usnit is supposed to spin. This in turn pulls the actuation arm reaward allowing the spin tube to drop the clitch pads onto the drive plate. If the solenoid is bad or the gliding inverted U shaped solenoid actuator center pin has sheared it will not pull the actuation arm to the rear and the unit will not spin because the clutch pads never are moved onto the drive plate.

Posted on Jan 11, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you"

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The machine made a horrible sound during spin cycle. I thought it was a belt that had broke. But we took the back off the belt is ok but it look as if the drum had come off the springs. We took a crow...


Unfortunately, the repairman is probably correct. If the rear tub bearing goes bad on these washers, or if one of the spin basket drum supports breaks, it usually requires the replacement of the internal spin basket. One simple test you can do yourself is to open the washer door and place your hand inside the drum at the 12 o'clock (top) position. Push straight up and release. If there is any play in the drum, this usually means one of the rear spin basket supports has broken, or the rear bearing is bad. Unfortunately, the only way to make this determination is to take the washer part and remove the outer drum shells. If the spin basket supports are intact, the drum bearing is molded into the rear drum shell. The bearing usually is not removable, which requires the replacement of the entire back shell. This is a maintenance intensive repair that usually takes a trained technician about 2 hours to complete. Even if you attempt the repair on your own, the spin basket alone costs over $300. The rear tub shell (with the bearing) is about $345. You may try contacting the manufacturer to see if there is a warranty on the spn basket. You can use the following link to see what warranty informaiton may be available on your appliance:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/nb_10153_12608_NB_CSwarrantyinformation?adCell=W3&i_cntr=1292622625154

It has been my experience that overloading the washer can contribute to the premature failure of the bearing and drum supports, however, there have been some cases where the spin basket supports prematurely failed due to poor welds or corrosion. These washers are usually very reliable and should last many years with proper care.

I do not necessarily agree with the repairman's assessment on the drain pump, however. If the drum slipped off the support mount springs while running, the washer would not have completed the cycle and would have shut down. This would have left any water that was already in the tub unable to be drained. If the tech performed a diagnostic test AFTER the drum was put back in place and the water still would not drain, there should have been an error code present on the front panel display of either "F02, F21, or "SUD".

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know.

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1 Answer

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You will need to replace the inner basket and front outer tub assembly. Likely, the spider on the inner basket (drum bracket) has broken which is causing it to be loose and rubbing on the inside of the outer tub. This can be verified by checking for excessive play of the inner basket (hold the front of the inner basket and check for play by moving it up and down).
It's not a cheap repair unfortunately. Be sure to always use a small amount (2 tablespoons for a full load) of HE (high efficiency) detergent to prevent future build up which could cause corrosion of the tub spider.

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had an old pressure switch that I thought was the problem I had from something else a year ago
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I took the back and top off and reconnected all the plugs.
Had a loose connection somewhere, it worked after that.

I blew into it and put it back on.
The rattleing quit in the pump after it pumped out, while the drum was spinning slow.
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The shaft on the spinner basket may have worn and formed a groove, or, if the bearing seal was leaking, the shaft may be stuck because of rust. The best way I know how to get the spinner basket out, is to try spraying the shaft with a lubricant like penetrating oil, or WD-40 and letting it sit a while. Allow the lubricant to settle into the area where the shaft seats into the bearing. If this does not provide you with any luck, place the outer drum face down on something to elevate the spin basket up off the floor. I suggest using a couple of saw horses, or blocks of wood. Allow the outer shell to rest on supports, leaving the spin basket free. Place some padding or old towels on the floor underneath the basket. Take a mallet (I prefer a rubber mallet, as it tends to be less abusive) and tap on the end of the drum shaft. The spin basket should pop free and drop from the tub shell. I hope this helps you.

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Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
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