Question about Electrolux 25.9 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Thru-the-Door Ice and Water - Stainless-Steel
My appliance only works for approx. two weeks at a time - it gradually gets noisier and makes clicking sounds and then both fridge and freezer temperatures rise. If I turn off for a day or so, it works fine for another two weeks and then the fault occurs again. Do you have any idea what may be the cause, I have had service people look at it but no cure as yet?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
On these units there is a defrost heater which comes on after about 12/14 hours running time depending on usage.It would cut in for about 15 mins just to get rid of ice accumulated around the Evaporator.This heater or the timer has failed and ice has got between the duct. supplying cold air to the fridge unit.The best thing to do is to defrost unit for 24 hours and then try it and see if you can feel cold air coming up into the fridge.The repair for this is not that successful and you would be better off defrosting unit like a normal fridge/freezer.
Hope this was a help.
Posted on May 12, 2010
The evaporator drain can become blocked. Water backs up and eventually falls out into the freezer and freezes. If this happens you should see ice build up inside the freezer.
The evaporator heater can blow. This allows condensation to freeze and not drain away. I have tried replacing it but I cannot confirm that I have solved the problem.
Another problem is liquid water draining onto the fan in the freezer compartment near the evaporator. If this happens when the fan is idle (presumably when the fridge and freezer are both down to the right temperature, water falling on the fan blades will freeze. The motor is low power and it may not have enough torque (turning power) to overcome the imbalance. This stops the cold air from circulating to the freezer and fridge. The control circuit may detect the fan is not turning or the temperature may rise setting off the alarm.
I have an Electrolux ER3162BN fridge freezer.
Posted on Jun 26, 2010
First thing to check is if (a) the evaporator fan is running in the freezer and (b) if there is a build up of ice on the freezer wall. If the fan is not running in the freezer the ref. side won't cool. If there is a build up of ice on the freezer wall, then you a defrost system problem and there won't be any circulation to the ref. side. If you have a defrost problem, the defrost system consist of 3 parts: timer, bi-metal thermostat, and heaters. With fridgidaire more than likely the adaptive defrost board(timer) located in the fridge on the upper left side behide some white pastic is bad. If you change it go ahead and change the bi-metal thermostat, located behind the freezer wall, as well because its a very cheap part and will save you from having to do it later.
Posted on Nov 01, 2010
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