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Electric stove oven C970-605123

Need to remove door to repair element

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Need to know how to remove Advantium 120

Usually there are 3 or 4 mounting bolts located in the floor of the cabinet above. First you will have to disconnect the power and then the duck work if the unit is ventde to the outside. To remove the unit requires two people, one to support the unit and the other to remove the bolts. If you are doing it alone, quite difficult, you'll have to juryrig a deadman support. Ther is a wall plate behind the unit that has a lip that the back bottom of the microwve is locked into. After the bolts are removed slowly lower the front until you are able free the unit from the lip of the support plate.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: Advantium 120 convection/microwave oven dead after power surge

The removal instructions are on page 34 of the service manual, and we have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Range RF315PXDW

It sounds like you are missing part of your input voltage.

I would take a voltage reading at the receptacle and confirm you are reading 220-240VAC. Some homes have the 220 service receptacles wired up with two 120 volt breakers to make up your 220 service. If your home is configured this way, you may have one of the breakers tripped. Or, the receptacle itself may be bad. If you confirm you have the correct voltage at the receptacle, your power cord may be bad.

The reason the clock and display will still appear to work is because the clock only uses 110-120VAC and is tapped off the source voltage. The surface burners and the oven heating elements, however, require the full 220 service.

If you are confused by this explanation, please post back and let me know. Hopefully, this is a problem that will not require any parts or a service call. If the power cord is bad, you can purchase a replacement at any hardware store. I hope this information is helpful.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

Testimonial: "I will definitely check both the 120v wires in receptacle feeding power to the stove. The breaker in the house breaker box is a single 60amp breaker. "

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: I AM GETTING ELECTRICITY TO

The indicator lights operate on 120 volts whereas the elements operate on 220 volts.
Using an electrical test meter go between the two hot legs and see if you are getting 220 volts. If not you have an open or non completed circuit.
Do not test from one leg to ground as you will probably read 120 volts for each leg. By reading across both legs you should get 220 volts.

Posted on May 03, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How do I normally remove

I have the same problem, but cannot remember which wire went to which terminal. Can anyone help?

Posted on Dec 10, 2011

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1 Answer

How to turn the oven light off on my Kenmore Elite Electric stove model790.


You should have either a shorted out door switch or a shorted out light switch on the control panel.
Removing either one and unplugging it should show you which one is the problem.
God bless your efforts.

Nov 30, 2016 | Kenmore Microwave Ovens

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Our microwave is a GE Spacemaker, Model # JVM1630WB004, mfg. in Mar, 2001. Just today it suddenly decided not to function other than the light in the oven coming on when activated, etc. It does not cook...


If your microwave oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these:

Fuses
Usually, when your microwave oven doesn't work it all, the internal fuse (thermal fuse) is blown. This fuse protects both you and the oven. When it blows, you need to have a qualified appliance repair technician replace it.

Door switch
If the fuse isn't the problem, check the door hooks and the door-release button. When these are broken, the door switch doesn't activate, so the oven can't work.

Oct 27, 2008 | GE Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

The left two elements on my electric oven do not heat up all the way. They do not heat on high. Also the lights that indicate the elements are on do not light up. The elements are not the problem. I...


test the switch for elements and replace if necessary, before clean and tight any loose connection, or faulty connection. use the multimeter for test.
God bless you

Oct 24, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Both oven lights blown and fan not working


If you've noticed that your oven is not heating up, there could be a problem with your oven fan thermostat.
its simple to check :

1.
Open oven door and locate the back plate, which can be found at the rear
of the appliance. Remove the back plate from the oven fan (it should be held in place by between two and six screws). The oven fan is located behind the back plate.
2.
Examine the oven fan element and the fan blades (they are exposed once the back plate has been removed). If there are noticeable signs of burning, blowing, bulging or splitting in an area of the oven fan, you can tell where the problem is coming from. It is also common for there to be no visible signs of a problem. This allows you to determine whether or not the oven fan can be replaced from inside, or if it is necessary to enter the back of the appliance.
3.
Remove screws from element and disconnect wires if screw heads are showing. This is commonly the case, as it is unusual to have to further disassemble the oven. After the screws are removed, the element becomes detached from the oven. Use caution to not accidentally pull out electrical wires that are connected to the element.
4.
Take the rear cover off, which is held in place by multiple screws. After that, you should be able to see the wiring harness, fan motor and the components of oven fan element. Parts of the fan element are near the round fan motor, which is located at the center of the oven. There are two electrical connections and one earth wire. Take note of the location that the earth wire is placed, because it needs to be restored to the same position.
5.
Remove the oven fan element. Check the element again for obvious signs of damage. If there are no apparent markings, check the oven with an electrical test meter or a continuity tester. After replacing oven fan element, return all connections and covers to their original positions.

This should help you up to an extent to check it in case of any assistance please revert back.

Jun 10, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I AM GETTING ELECTRICITY TO THE 220 PLUG AND THROUGH THE 220 PLUG WIRE TO THE STOVE JUNCTION BOX. THE STOVE TOP AND OVEN HEATING ELEMENTS ARE NOT HEATING UP BUT THE INDICATOR LIGHTS FOR BOTH ELEMENTS SHOW...


The indicator lights operate on 120 volts whereas the elements operate on 220 volts.
Using an electrical test meter go between the two hot legs and see if you are getting 220 volts. If not you have an open or non completed circuit.
Do not test from one leg to ground as you will probably read 120 volts for each leg. By reading across both legs you should get 220 volts.

May 03, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

We turned on our oven last night and it heated up to 345, wanted to get to 400, then my wife saw smoke form the right hand front of the inside of the oven. I wanted to check the element, but can't figure...


I am assuming you are referring to a conventional stove. First shut off power to the stove at the breaker panel. (either a 40 or 50 amp breaker). Check to see if the elements come on before proceeding.
Slide out stove and unplug it. Look on the back. There will be a vertical piece of sheet metal with 1 to 3 screws or a large flat panel with several screws (1/4 Inch socket). Remove this panel to reveal the leads to the bake element.
remove the leads. Then remove the two screws inside the stove (1/4 inch socket) to remove element. The model and serial for the stove should be located by sliding the drawer out at the bottom of the stove on the left side.
You will need this number for the correct element. They run about 20 dollars typically. Hope this helps.

Feb 17, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

I have a whirlpool stove and one of the burner doesn't work but the light on switch works. What could be the problem and how can I fix. Help pls.


1.TURN THE POWER OFF TO YOUR STOVE! In most houses, the electric stove is on it's own circuit breaker. If you are in an older home, you're probably lucky you even have a stove...just kidding! If you had your kitchen updated, every electrician should have wired your stove to its own circuit breaker. Shut off the circuit breaker.
2.Remove all the burners and catch plates under them. You are going to lift the top of your stove up. Once you've done that, see what kind of receptacle you have. You'll now have to shop around to find the part. The local appliance store charged us way too much. Lowe's or Home Depot might not have your parts, or they might. Amazon might have your part and if they don't, they will direct you to someone that will. We could have saved half the purchase price if we'd gone there in the first place.
*A quick note* The receptacle is wired to the switches at the front of the stove. They complete the entire circuit, so that is the only thing you need to worry about--from the switch to the receptacle.
After the stove top is lifted, you will find another tray under it. If the wires from the receptacles go under the tray to the "on" switches at the front of
your stove, you'll have to lift this tray up as well. Remove the tray and any other panels you need to in order to get to the switches.
3.Follow the wires, which should be color-coded for that stove top burner, until you find the switch it hooks to. If you have not purchased the parts yet, go ahead and disconnect the wire from the switch and pull the receptacle from it's aluminum cradle. You'll want these parts to take with you to find their replacements.
*note* Your new wire receptacle should consist of the housing for the burner to fit snug into, and two wires that extend from the other end. Electricity works in a circle. If the circle is broken, you have a short and that is where the spark comes from- your electrical current was trying to reach the other side and sparked to get there.
If you do have the parts, compare them to the old ones to make sure they are the same. Nothing worse than spending time on a repair with the wrong parts.
If you have the RIGHT parts, find the correct end of your wires and just slide it over the terminal at the switch. They might be the screw types. Whatever you have, connect it. It does not matter which one went where. As long as you are using the empty wire terminals you just uncovered with the old wires, you are completing the circle.
*Note* I have seen some receptacle kits that do not give you enough wire and require you to splice wires together. Not only is that a bad idea, but does not conform to electrical codes requirements and could result in fire. If the new equipment did not come with long enough wire to reach all the way from receptacle to switch, purchase a longer wire at your local hardware store. For a few pennies more you could be saving your family's lives.
4.Once you have hooked the receptacle ends to the switch harness, tie down the wires alongside the wire bundle until you get to the end.
5.Attach your burner receptacle to the aluminum clamp.
6.Attach your aluminum clamp to the stove top.
7.Screw down all the pieces you removed- anything covering the switches and the bottom tray. Put down your stove top and put in place all the shields and burners. Turn the circuit breaker back on for your stove and try it out!8_10_2012_8_42_55_am.jpg

Feb 12, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I need a replacement element (8 inch) for my Kelvinator range (model no. KRS J3L-1)


Hi, W/D here.
Here's the easiest way that I know of to repair your stove:
Remove your element. Most can be removed by lifting the element on the side away from where the leads disappear under the stove top, and then pulling it out of the plug-in socket.
Take the element with you to one of the larger hardware stores, and locate the elements that have your style of terminals. The elements are generic; that's why you needed your old one. I have replaced dozens of elements and have found the generics to be every bit as good as one ordered, and cheaper, too!
Best regards, --W/D--

Jan 31, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

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