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Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size.
Yes diodes come in all sizes. Look on your good diode an you will find a number such as 4001 or something like it. That number tells you the amperage rating for the diode you need. I dont know the wattage but 4001 is not the one you will need but they are found online at parts stores, ebay, even try your local electrical store. I have got the correct larger ones from an alternator repair shop.
A rectifier for a alternator or charging system is a set of diodes. A diode is a one way "valve" for electricity allowing flow in only one direction. Typically a rectifier has 6 diodes, 3 positive and 3 negative.
When diodes fail, electricity leaks to ground and systems discharge.
That diode part number is not recognizable. IT IS possible that the full number is 1s1907.which is a 400PIV diode.
If the diode is about 3/8 inch long and 1/8 diameter replace with a 1N4007 which should have adequate voltage margin if it is a rectifier diode.
One has to be careful as the original could also be a Zener regulator. The board nomenclature for that would likely have "ZD" followed by a number. Verify the diode is used as a rectifier type by tracing the circuit enough.
Check the power supply transformer primary driver transistor and the associated components (some diodes and capacitors, resistors, an optocoupler maybe) and the rectifier diodes (or a bridge) and capacitors at the transformer secondary, what you are looking for is a short circuit, however, the short may as well be in another section of the circuit board (a shorted component may sometimes have signs of damage caused by heat, but this is not a rule).
That's a nice amp head.... If it is still blowing fuses, you've got a dead short somewhere, that probably is in the power supply section. The power supply is solid state, (diodes for the rectifier), so either one or two didoes went bad or one of the big filter caps shorted out. Look for a blackened area around these components. Sometimes the caps will have just a "puffed-up" look to them, but.. BE VERY CAREFUL! Some tube amplifiers do not have bleeder resistors on the caps and they can hold a charge of up to 450 volts... Very dangerous! AND can KILL.
If you don't know what those components are, or how to use a volt/ohm meter, you should take it to a technician.
good day, if you already replaced the fuse and still keeps on blowing it again. you still have a short circuit somewhere within the power supply area or board.try to check if there are any other blown parts or slightly expanded shape part specially for capacitors near the power supply area .
2) If you do have multi tester and have some basic knowledge with component checking try to check the polyswitch protector, this is connected parralel to AC supply right after the fuse before going to voltage rectifier diode.
3) if it doesn't have a polyswitch protector check the polarity of your rectifier diode, maybe 1 of this 4bridged diode is shorted.
I just fixed an HTS3555/37 with a no power problem. As one person mentioned, you can hear a ticking sound.
The problem is a diode/rectifier on the power supply board. There was no identifiable number on the board for the part, but it's located just above the "T" in the word "TYPE" in the silk screen notice on the board stating "...REPLACE WITH SAME TYPE FUSE". The original part is an HER104, but I suggest replacing it with a larger diode having 400PIV and 2A rating. I used a 30D4, but any equivalent diode could be used. Proper polarity for the diode is silk screened on the board.
To fix this successfully you should to have some soldering and general electronics repair know-how. Caution: There is in excess of 300V on the power supply board even in its non-working state.
Do you know how to work on solid state electronics? if not then Im sorry to say you will need to get the assistance of a local tech who is experienced. As these sets are solid state and there are no user servicable parts inside. Good Luck