Question about Car Audio & Video
Installing a Pioneer GM-6500F 4-Channel Brigeable Amp and 12" Pioneer TS-W310D4 subwoofer to existing stock system in an 08 Nissa Altima.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
well yeah thats what im doin riht now in my ford taurs what u do is u can hook up your 5x7s and ur 6x9s on ur amp sill have room for a sub the way too do that is get the front speakers off the amp just run the back andsince its a four channlel amp 1 and 2 channel are used for the back and 3 and four are used for thesub of couse u brige the sub to the amp 3 and four are used for the sub hope that helps friend let me no what happens
Posted on Apr 09, 2008
SOURCE: My Pioneer GM 5300t amplifier
Do not continue to put new fuses into the amp until you have figured
out what is causing the problem. It will only increase the chances of
causing more damage to the amplifier. I have been repairing car and
home amplifiers for over 18 years and have a lot of experience with
Pioneer amplifiers since I work at an authorized Pioneer service
This post will be long, but if you bear with me and forgive my long-winded answers you may be able to determain your problem even tho I really don't have enough information to figure it out yet. If not, we can get a little closer with more information.
Does the amplifier blow the fuse as soon as you connect power to it, or as soon as a new fuse is put into the amp? If so, the amplifier has some shorted components in the power supply. They have a bank of mosfet transistors in the power supply that sometimes get shorted when the amp has been pushed beyond it's ability, or just from a random part failure, or if the impedance of the speakers is too low. Your speaker is a 4 ohm speaker, if it is at a lower impedance than 3 ohms when measured with an ohm meter then it will need to be replaced. Even if it still plays, it is too low of a load for the amplifier and will cause more current to go thru the amp than what it was designed for. If you are using more than one speaker and have them bridged it will do the same thing. This amp is rated at 4 ohms bridged and 2 ohms per channel stereo. When you connect 2 speakers together and then bridge them they become a 2 ohm load which causes double the amount of current to flow thru the amp. It was not designed for that. Sometimes you can get these component failures just because there may be a solder joint or two inside the amplifier that is cracked and not making connection very well and this can cause components to short out because they are not operating at the proper voltage.
If your amp blows the fuse only after it has been turned on by your head unit, you will most likely have a blown channel. This would require the replacement of the output transistors of the bad channel as well as a few resistors and sometimes a few other parts.
If your amp will turn on and play for a while and then blow the fuse at higher volume levels or after a long time playing the problem can be either a bad speaker at a lower impedance or one or more components that are breaking down after they get hot or at a certain volume level.
As you can tell by now there are many reasons that an amplifier can blow the fuses, and figuring out just what the cause is can sometimes be a difficult task. It may require that you have a multimeter to do some checks on the amp and a power supply to power the amp on a bench so you can do those tests.
If this information has not helped you to determain the problem, please give me as much information as you can about how you are using the amp. How many speakers, where they are connected, at what point does the amp blow the fuse, and anything else that you can think of that may or may not be important. You never know what might give a better clue, too much information is always better than too little.
Thanks and good luck,
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
SOURCE: how do i hook it up
On the Sub you have 4 connectors, 2 for each voice coil... Run a jumper wire from One side of the sub to the other. Positive to negative so that now you have one set of connectors free. Doing this will make the sub able to handle more cause you're using both voice coils. Thats how i've always hooked mine up when i have duel voice coil and they always last a long time. If you're gonna bridge the amp, make sure its turned down for about 5 or 6 hours to let the sub break in.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
1 I 2 I 3 I 4 I
---------------------- the wiev from woofer
5 I 6 I 7 I 8 I
1- Right Chanel (-)
2- Right Chanel (+)
3- Left Chanel (-)
4- Left Chanel (+)
5- NC (not connected)
6- GROUND ( - )
7- POSITIVE ( + )
8- Remote (from HU)
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
Hello, The problem with the enclosure is that you purchased a "free-air" sub, which is designed to NOT use an enclosure. You need to simply mount the sub on a baffle (board) that covers the whole entire rear deck of your vehicle, and seperates the inside of the trunk from the cabin of the vehicle. Use sealant to keep the two compartments sealed air-tight and mount the sub on the baffle-board. The other option, is to build a very large box (larger than 3 cubic feet) that would be incredibly huge for the subwoofer, as a free-air, it has a VERY high QTS, and relies on a massive amount of air behind the woofer to allow it to reach low frequencies. The best bet would be to get rid of the free-air sub and purchased a sealed enclosure subwoofer for use in a small (.6-1 cubic foot) sealed box.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
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