Question about Computers & Internet
I have an HP Pavillion DV1000 Laptop that I'm working to repair for a customer. I have mostly isolated the issue to be a failed SBM1040 Diode near the DC power input and have located some sources and more modern alternatives (the PDS1040 Diode) however, before I order the needed pieces (this is labelled PD21 on the motherboard), I'd like to make sure that I wouldn't really need to be looking to replace a couple of other components in that area. I know these notebooks have horrendous heat problems and that this is likely to be the cause for the failure so I figured I'd check before getting the pieces to repair if anyone has experience in performing the job.
You seem to know what you're doing, but make sure the diode only works one way. If it doesn't work at all, then it will need to be replaced, if it works both ways, it could have damaged other components.
This laptop is quite old and personally I wouldn't have bothered with it, since as you know, these laptops are terrible for these sorts of problems!
Posted on Jan 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am sure that power jack is a part of your mother board but you can also replace a new power jack for your mother board. I know that if you send it to HP they will charge you 398$ for repairing the notebook. I will give you a link from where you can purchase a power jack with a nominal price. You can fix it by yourself or you can go to any electronic shop for foxing this. It is as simple as soldering the new power jack on the mother board.
The web link is:
Posted on Mar 08, 2008
There is an .exe file on the HP site. I'll admit it was pretty well-hidden on their site. Here's the link to the EEPROM programming tool:
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
SOURCE: Gateway MX6453 or MA3
Because the power jack is soldered directly to the motherboard, side to side stress on the plug over time damages more than the solder joint, it also loosens the little copper sleeve that lines the hole in the motherboard. Simply resoldering the joint only cures the problem for a month or so. You must remove the plug, wrap and then solder a thin piece of wire clipped from a small resisitor lead to the base of the center pin connector leg (the one to the back of the jack) and pull through the board with the leg. Then the extra wire is bent over like a hook and coiled around the spot -- squashed flat. then the coiled extra wire acts as an added anchor when soldered (hooking the power jack connector to the board.) this joint will survive like or even better than new. Not doing this added step gaurantees you joint repair will fail not long after it is made.
Posted on May 17, 2010
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