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It's a pretty straight forward job make sure you replace both the inner and outer wheel bearing and also make sure you replace the inner and outter bearing races located inside the brake rotor if you don't know or don't have the correct tools to replace the races then just but a new brake rotor ..it will have the races already pressed in it. Make sure not to over tighten the outter nut that holds the rotor and bearing in place . the best way to tighten it is to tighten it all the way down with a wrench to seat the bearings then loosen it back up till you have play in the rotor and bearing again ... then while spinning the who;e rotor and bearing assembly with one hand turn the nut as tight as you can with your fingures and then install your nut retainer and cotter pin. Spin the whole brake rotor after installing the nut retainer and cotter pin to check for excessive play .You should do the other side also if one failed chances are the other will shortly.
Park the Lincoln Town Car on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Apply the parking brake. Press the trunk release button.
Place a wheel chock behind one
of the rear wheels. Open the trunk and turn off the air ride button,
located on the left side near the trunk hinge on the sidewall.
Break the lug nuts loose with the breaking bar and socket on the left front tire. Just crack them loose.
Lift the left front quarter of
the Lincoln Town Car with the floor jack, and place a jack stand under
the frame just behind the left front tire.
Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the left front tire.
Remove the caliper bolts using a ratchet and socket.
Pry off the caliper with the straight-edged screwdriver and secure it to the coil spring with the bungee cord.
Remove the pads from the caliper
anchor. Pry them out with the screwdriver if you need to, but note how
they are placed in the anchor so you can replace them in the exact same
manner when it comes time to.
Remove the caliper anchor bolts.
You may have to break them loose with the breaking bar and socket, but
switch over to the ratchet once they're broken free to speed things up.
Remove the rotor. Look on the
hub facing of the rotor. There may be some retainer washers that hold
the rotor secure to the hub; if so, you'll need to pry them forward with
the screwdriver and pull them off with channel locks or pliers. The
only purpose of these retainer washers is to hold the rotor secure to
the hub while reinstalling the caliper anchor and caliper. Do not worry
if you ruin these or if they're not even on the rotor. You don't really
need them. If the rotor does not move after you've removed the retaining
washers, you may need to shock it from the hub. Do so by striking the
rotor fin with a hammer with force to break it free from the rust to the
hub. You may have to hit it several times; try hitting from behind more
than in front, but be careful not to inflict damage to the fender or
Sand down the facing and edges
of the hub with a light-grade sandpaper. Take some time and clean the
hub from rust and corrosion as well as you can.
Spray the new rotor with brake
clean spray very thoroughly. New rotors have an oil-based coating on
them to prevent them from rusting due to condensation in the air. This
oil coating must be cleaned off or it will create braking problems in
the future. Be liberal with the brake clean on both sides of the rotor,
and wipe it dry with a shop rag.
Replace the caliper anchor and
pads. Tighten the caliper anchor bolts tightly with the ratchet and
switch to the breaking bar to get another half turn out of them.
Squeeze the piston of the
caliper in with the C-clamp all the way. Replace it over the anchor,
pads and rotor. Replace and tighten the caliper bolts.
Replace the tire and lug nuts.
Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them with the ratchet and
socket, then lower the Town Car and use the adjustable torque wrench set
at 100 foot-pounds, but tighten the lug nuts in an alternate pattern.
In other words, tighten each lug nut in the opposite position from the
one tightened first until all the lug nuts are tightened to 100
Repeat the process for the right side.
Pump the food pedal when you're
done to restore hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons. Failure to
perform this task can result in hazardous and dangerous results. Four or
five pumps or until the brake pedal feels normal should suffice.
Release the hood latch and trunk latch again if you closed it before.
Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and turn
the air ride button back to the on position in the trunk. Remove the
1 Jack the front of the vehicle up and support with jack stands. Remove the front tires and the front brake calipers. Hang the calipers up or support them so they are not hanging by the brake hose, which could damage the hose.
2 Remove the caliper support, then remove the center bearing cover using the hammer and chisel. Tap it out easily so as not to bend it. Remove the cotter pin in the spindle.
3 Remove the large bearing retaining nut and grab the rotor with your hand and rock it forward just enough for the front bearing to fall out.
4 Put the large bearing retaining nut back on, but do not turn more than four or five threads. Grab the rotor with both hands at the 3 o'clock and the 9 o'clock position and pushing down slightly, pull the rotor off swiftly. This will remove the rear bearing and seal at the same time. The retaining nut will knock the bearing and seal out as you pull the rotor off. Remove the retaining nut.
5 Remove the inner races for the bearings using the hammer and chisel. Put the chisel on the top of the bearing race and hammer it down toward the floor and then turn the rotor over and do the other side the same way.
6 Install the new bearing races using the old races as a buffer or an installing tool. Lay the new race in the rotor and line it up to the recession and lay the old race upside down on the new one. Hit the old bearing with the hammer to drive the new bearing into the recess. Make sure you drive the new bearing all the way into its recess. Do the same for the other side.
7 Fill the palm of your hand with grease and push one bearing at a time into the grease and drag it across the hand so that the bearings get a full packing of grease. Install the large bearing first by dropping the bearing into it's race and then installing the seal with the hammer.
8 Install the rotor back onto spindle and hold it in place. While holding the rotor on the spindle with one hand install the front small wheel bearing followed by the large washer and the retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut (use the crescent wrench) just enough so that there is no play felt. Tighten the nut another 90 degrees with the wrench and then rotate the rotor a couple of times. Back the nut off until it is loose then tighten just until you feel the friction of it tightening up again and stop right there. The bearing must be tight enough that there is no freeplay, but not so tight that the bearings will seize up when they heat up and expand.
9 Install the cotter pin and the bearing cup. Install the caliper support and the caliper. Do the other side the same way then install the tires.
Park the Mazda6 on a flat paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. **** out half the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.
Break the lug nuts loose on the front tire, using the breaking bar and a 21-mm socket. Raise the left quarter panel first with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left front frame rail. You can lift the right side too or just do one side at a time. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel when elevated.
Pry the two plastic caliper slide bolt covers off with the flathead screwdriver and remove the caliper slide bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off the pads and rotor with the screwdriver and support it to the coil spring with the bungee cord so it does not dangle by the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using the C-clamp until the piston bottoms out in the caliper casing.
Remove the pads from the caliper anchor by prying them out gently with the screwdriver. Be sure to memorize how they were positioned in the anchor so you can replace them the same way in the event you're not replacing the pads as well. Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket. They're going to be extremely tight, so be prepared. Remove the caliper anchor.
Locate the retaining screw on the hub face of the rotor. Use the impact screwdriver in the reverse position with a Phillips head bit and strike the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. Remove the screw. Remove the rotor. If it is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it a few times with force on the plated fins of the rotor.
Spray the new rotor with brake clean and be generous to clean off the oil coating that new rotors have on them so they will not rust from condensation in the air while they were in storage. Clean both sides and wipe dry with a shop rag. Place the new rotor on the hub and make sure to line up the retaining screw hole in the rotor to the hub. Replace and tighten the retaining screw.
Replace the caliper anchor and bolts and tighten tightly. Replace the pads into the caliper anchor in the same manner you removed them. Replace the caliper over the pads and rotor and replace and tighten the caliper slide bolts. Replace the plastic covers.
Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts so they are flush. Lower the Mazda6 and torque the lug nuts alternately with the torque wrench, set at 80 foot-pounds and the 21-mm socket. If you raised both sides of the front axle, wait until you've replaced the right side rotor, otherwise repeat Step 2 through Step 8 for the right side.
Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels normal to restore the hydraulic pressure back to the compressed caliper pistons. Release the parking brake.
Check and add new DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder and replace the cap securely. Close the hood. Remove the wheel chock and test drive
Remove ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the syringe and replace the cover. Discard the fluid.
Remove the front hubcaps and loosen the wheel nuts using the lug wrench, but do not remove the nuts.
Lift the front end of the LeSabre with the floor jack and secure safely onto the jack stands.
the wheel nuts and wheels. Screw one wheel nut back onto a wheel stud
hand tight to retain the rotor away from the caliper assembly.
Place a large C-clamp over the left inboard caliper housing and the outboard pad, and tighten to compress the caliper piston.
the two caliper guide bolts using a box end wrench. Remove the caliper
and secure it to the vehicle chassis with mechanic's wire or a metal
Remove the outboard pad from the caliper on the LeSabre first. Pry it off the outboard caliper housing using the screwdriver.
Remove the inboard pad by lifting the retaining clips out of the caliper bore.
the surface of the caliper bridge that contacts the backing plate of
the pads using a wire brush, and apply a thin coat of brake lubricant
to the contact points. Be careful not to let the lubricant get onto the
the new inboard brake pad and shim into the caliper piston bore by
pressing the retaining clips into the bore until it locks into place.
the outboard pad onto the caliper housing, making sure to align the
retaining clips into the holes in the caliper. Use the screwdriver to
convince the clips onto the caliper if necessary.
Replace the caliper over the rotor.
off the surface of the guide bolts and apply a light coat of lubricant
to the smooth surface of them. Align them properly through the rubber
boots and bolt the caliper to the knuckle. Tighten the guide bolts
using the wrench. Remove the wheel nut from the wheel stud securing the
the wheel and wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts snugly, and re-tighten
them (with a torque wrench is recommended set at 100 foot pounds) once
the LeSabre is back on the ground.
Repeat steps 5 through 14 for the right side.
the brake pedal when you're through to seat the new pads against the
rotors, then check and add new brake fluid to the master cylinder.
Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal. Removal
Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
Raise vehicle on hoist.
NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
Metric Hub Remover Adapter
Front Hub Replacer
Turn Wrench Counterclockwise
Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench
Front Hub Remover/Replacer
Two Stud Adapter
Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
If your rotors (new ones) came as just the rotor with no center hub, just remove the brake caliper, take the rotor off and put the new one back on. But, the one i think you have is a bit different...with hub attached. On that one, remove the center cover, cotter pin and nut. Remove caliper. push on one side of the rotor and the outer bearing and washer will come out. Put the parts aside and pull on the rotor and it will come off. Put the nut back on the spindle and put the rotor on over the nut, "hook" the inner bearing on the nut as you give the rotor a quick tug (like removing it) and inner bearing will come out. Clean and re-pack bearings and install (I recommend you replace the inner seal.) Put together in reverse order of removal, tighten nut snugly but not really tight, turn rotor while tightening. It is tight enough when there is no wobble in the rotor. that is all you need.Don't forget the cotter pin. If hole does not align, tighten do not loosen nut till hole aligns.
hi you will have to remove the wheel,grease cap from the hub remove the brake caliper and move aside (do not seporate rubber line). (discard caliper bolts can not be reused) remove rotor,wheel hub retainer nut (and discard nut can not be reused) in order to remove the hub
hub and new nut and tighten new nut to 189-254 ft.lbs
rotor new grease cap seal
brake caliper with 2 new bolts tighten to125-170 ft.lbs
wheel tighten to85-104 ft.lbs
pump the brake pedal befor moving car