Question about Dynam e-razor 450 flybarless carbon 2.4ghz ready to fly rc 6 channel

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How tight do i tighten the main rotor retaining nut on the e razor 450 fbl

I have a new e razor 450 fbl and need to know how tight to tighten the main rotor retaining nuts to keep them in position for flight without damaging the rotors

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Needs bearing assy on 1989 f150


It's a pretty straight forward job make sure you replace both the inner and outer wheel bearing and also make sure you replace the inner and outter bearing races located inside the brake rotor if you don't know or don't have the correct tools to replace the races then just but a new brake rotor ..it will have the races already pressed in it. Make sure not to over tighten the outter nut that holds the rotor and bearing in place . the best way to tighten it is to tighten it all the way down with a wrench to seat the bearings then loosen it back up till you have play in the rotor and bearing again ... then while spinning the who;e rotor and bearing assembly with one hand turn the nut as tight as you can with your fingures and then install your nut retainer and cotter pin. Spin the whole brake rotor after installing the nut retainer and cotter pin to check for excessive play .You should do the other side also if one failed chances are the other will shortly.

Aug 05, 2012 | 1989 Ford F 150

2 Answers

Mazda B4000 2 WD, What is the Front wheel bearing torque after I replace the rotors


11_30_2011_3_48_02_pm.jpg


Fig. Exploded view of the wheel bearing adjusting nut and related components-automatic locking hub shown

Loosen the wheel bearing locknut using a 2 3/8 inch (60.3mm) hex socket, such as Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B.


11_30_2011_3_48_28_pm.jpg

Fig. An oversize socket is needed to properly adjust the wheel bearing-automatic locking hub shown

Tighten the inner locknut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) to seat the bearings.

Spin the rotor and back off the inner locknut 1/4 turn (90 degrees). Retighten the locknut to 16 inch lbs. (1.8 Nm).

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

Oct 27, 2011 | 2007 Mazda B4000

1 Answer

Front brake calipers wont release


Park the Lincoln Town Car on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Apply the parking brake. Press the trunk release button.

  • 2 Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels. Open the trunk and turn off the air ride button, located on the left side near the trunk hinge on the sidewall.
  • 3 Break the lug nuts loose with the breaking bar and socket on the left front tire. Just crack them loose.
  • 4 Lift the left front quarter of the Lincoln Town Car with the floor jack, and place a jack stand under the frame just behind the left front tire.
  • 5 Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the left front tire.
  • 6 Remove the caliper bolts using a ratchet and socket.
  • 7 Pry off the caliper with the straight-edged screwdriver and secure it to the coil spring with the bungee cord.
  • 8 Remove the pads from the caliper anchor. Pry them out with the screwdriver if you need to, but note how they are placed in the anchor so you can replace them in the exact same manner when it comes time to.
  • 9 Remove the caliper anchor bolts. You may have to break them loose with the breaking bar and socket, but switch over to the ratchet once they're broken free to speed things up.
  • 10 Remove the rotor. Look on the hub facing of the rotor. There may be some retainer washers that hold the rotor secure to the hub; if so, you'll need to pry them forward with the screwdriver and pull them off with channel locks or pliers. The only purpose of these retainer washers is to hold the rotor secure to the hub while reinstalling the caliper anchor and caliper. Do not worry if you ruin these or if they're not even on the rotor. You don't really need them. If the rotor does not move after you've removed the retaining washers, you may need to shock it from the hub. Do so by striking the rotor fin with a hammer with force to break it free from the rust to the hub. You may have to hit it several times; try hitting from behind more than in front, but be careful not to inflict damage to the fender or injure yourself.
  • 11 Sand down the facing and edges of the hub with a light-grade sandpaper. Take some time and clean the hub from rust and corrosion as well as you can.
  • 12 Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray very thoroughly. New rotors have an oil-based coating on them to prevent them from rusting due to condensation in the air. This oil coating must be cleaned off or it will create braking problems in the future. Be liberal with the brake clean on both sides of the rotor, and wipe it dry with a shop rag.
  • 13 Replace the caliper anchor and pads. Tighten the caliper anchor bolts tightly with the ratchet and switch to the breaking bar to get another half turn out of them.
  • 14 Squeeze the piston of the caliper in with the C-clamp all the way. Replace it over the anchor, pads and rotor. Replace and tighten the caliper bolts.
  • 15 Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them with the ratchet and socket, then lower the Town Car and use the adjustable torque wrench set at 100 foot-pounds, but tighten the lug nuts in an alternate pattern. In other words, tighten each lug nut in the opposite position from the one tightened first until all the lug nuts are tightened to 100 foot-pounds.
  • 16 Repeat the process for the right side.
  • 17 Pump the food pedal when you're done to restore hydraulic pressure to the caliper pistons. Failure to perform this task can result in hazardous and dangerous results. Four or five pumps or until the brake pedal feels normal should suffice. Release the hood latch and trunk latch again if you closed it before. Check and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, and turn the air ride button back to the on position in the trunk. Remove the wheel chock.
  • 18 Release the parking brake and test-drive.
  • Oct 27, 2011 | 1992 Lincoln Town Car

    1 Answer

    I need a diagram on f250 hd 4x4 front wheel bearing to replace them


    1 Jack the front of the vehicle up and support with jack stands. Remove the front tires and the front brake calipers. Hang the calipers up or support them so they are not hanging by the brake hose, which could damage the hose.

    2 Remove the caliper support, then remove the center bearing cover using the hammer and chisel. Tap it out easily so as not to bend it. Remove the cotter pin in the spindle.

    3 Remove the large bearing retaining nut and grab the rotor with your hand and rock it forward just enough for the front bearing to fall out.

    4 Put the large bearing retaining nut back on, but do not turn more than four or five threads. Grab the rotor with both hands at the 3 o'clock and the 9 o'clock position and pushing down slightly, pull the rotor off swiftly. This will remove the rear bearing and seal at the same time. The retaining nut will knock the bearing and seal out as you pull the rotor off. Remove the retaining nut.

    5 Remove the inner races for the bearings using the hammer and chisel. Put the chisel on the top of the bearing race and hammer it down toward the floor and then turn the rotor over and do the other side the same way.

    6 Install the new bearing races using the old races as a buffer or an installing tool. Lay the new race in the rotor and line it up to the recession and lay the old race upside down on the new one. Hit the old bearing with the hammer to drive the new bearing into the recess. Make sure you drive the new bearing all the way into its recess. Do the same for the other side.

    7 Fill the palm of your hand with grease and push one bearing at a time into the grease and drag it across the hand so that the bearings get a full packing of grease. Install the large bearing first by dropping the bearing into it's race and then installing the seal with the hammer.

    8 Install the rotor back onto spindle and hold it in place. While holding the rotor on the spindle with one hand install the front small wheel bearing followed by the large washer and the retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut (use the crescent wrench) just enough so that there is no play felt. Tighten the nut another 90 degrees with the wrench and then rotate the rotor a couple of times. Back the nut off until it is loose then tighten just until you feel the friction of it tightening up again and stop right there. The bearing must be tight enough that there is no freeplay, but not so tight that the bearings will seize up when they heat up and expand.

    9 Install the cotter pin and the bearing cup. Install the caliper support and the caliper. Do the other side the same way then install the tires.

    Jul 02, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?


    FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
    1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
    2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

    3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
    4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

    5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
    6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
    7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
    8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
    9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
    10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
    11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
    12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
    14. Assemble the hub parts.
    15. Install the caliper.
    16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
    Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
    1. Remove the wheel cover.
    2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

    3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
    4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

    5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
    6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
    7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
    8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
    9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
    10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
    11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
    12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
    14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
    15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

    16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
    17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
    prev.gif next.gif

    Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

    1 Answer

    I need instructions on how to remove the rotors and replace the front brake pads on a 2004 mazda 6.


    Instructions Things You'll Need:
    • Floor jack
    • Jack stand(s)
    • Wheel chock
    • Turkey baster
    • DOT 3 brake fluid
    • Flathead screwdriver
    • 1/2-inch drive breaking bar
    • 1/2-inch drive socket set (up to 21 mm)
    • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
    • 1/2-inch drive adjustable torque wrench (recommended)
    • Impact screwdriver with Phillips head bit
    • Hammer
    • Bungee cord
    • C-clamp
    • Brake clean spray
    • Shop rag(s)
      How to Replace Front Rotors on a Mazda6
    1. Step 1 Park the Mazda6 on a flat paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. **** out half the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.
    2. Step 2 Break the lug nuts loose on the front tire, using the breaking bar and a 21-mm socket. Raise the left quarter panel first with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left front frame rail. You can lift the right side too or just do one side at a time. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel when elevated.
    3. Step 3 Pry the two plastic caliper slide bolt covers off with the flathead screwdriver and remove the caliper slide bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off the pads and rotor with the screwdriver and support it to the coil spring with the bungee cord so it does not dangle by the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using the C-clamp until the piston bottoms out in the caliper casing.
    4. Step 4 Remove the pads from the caliper anchor by prying them out gently with the screwdriver. Be sure to memorize how they were positioned in the anchor so you can replace them the same way in the event you're not replacing the pads as well. Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket. They're going to be extremely tight, so be prepared. Remove the caliper anchor.
    5. Step 5 Locate the retaining screw on the hub face of the rotor. Use the impact screwdriver in the reverse position with a Phillips head bit and strike the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. Remove the screw. Remove the rotor. If it is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it a few times with force on the plated fins of the rotor.
    6. Step 6 Spray the new rotor with brake clean and be generous to clean off the oil coating that new rotors have on them so they will not rust from condensation in the air while they were in storage. Clean both sides and wipe dry with a shop rag. Place the new rotor on the hub and make sure to line up the retaining screw hole in the rotor to the hub. Replace and tighten the retaining screw.
    7. Step 7 Replace the caliper anchor and bolts and tighten tightly. Replace the pads into the caliper anchor in the same manner you removed them. Replace the caliper over the pads and rotor and replace and tighten the caliper slide bolts. Replace the plastic covers.
    8. Step 8 Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts so they are flush. Lower the Mazda6 and torque the lug nuts alternately with the torque wrench, set at 80 foot-pounds and the 21-mm socket. If you raised both sides of the front axle, wait until you've replaced the right side rotor, otherwise repeat Step 2 through Step 8 for the right side.
    9. Step 9 Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels normal to restore the hydraulic pressure back to the compressed caliper pistons. Release the parking brake.
    10. Step 10 Check and add new DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder and replace the cap securely. Close the hood. Remove the wheel chock and test drive

    May 28, 2010 | 2004 Mazda 6

    1 Answer

    Front pad replacement the correct method for replaceing front disc pads


    1. Step 1 Remove ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the syringe and replace the cover. Discard the fluid.
    2. Step 2
    3. Remove the front hubcaps and loosen the wheel nuts using the lug wrench, but do not remove the nuts.
    4. Step 3 Lift the front end of the LeSabre with the floor jack and secure safely onto the jack stands.
    5. Step 4 Remove the wheel nuts and wheels. Screw one wheel nut back onto a wheel stud hand tight to retain the rotor away from the caliper assembly.
    6. Step 5 Place a large C-clamp over the left inboard caliper housing and the outboard pad, and tighten to compress the caliper piston.
    7. Step 6 Remove the two caliper guide bolts using a box end wrench. Remove the caliper and secure it to the vehicle chassis with mechanic's wire or a metal hook.
    8. Step 7 Remove the outboard pad from the caliper on the LeSabre first. Pry it off the outboard caliper housing using the screwdriver.
    9. Step 8 Remove the inboard pad by lifting the retaining clips out of the caliper bore.
    10. Step 9 Clean the surface of the caliper bridge that contacts the backing plate of the pads using a wire brush, and apply a thin coat of brake lubricant to the contact points. Be careful not to let the lubricant get onto the rotor.
    11. Step 10 Install the new inboard brake pad and shim into the caliper piston bore by pressing the retaining clips into the bore until it locks into place.
    12. Step 11 Install the outboard pad onto the caliper housing, making sure to align the retaining clips into the holes in the caliper. Use the screwdriver to convince the clips onto the caliper if necessary.
    13. Step 12 Replace the caliper over the rotor.
    14. Step 13 Clean off the surface of the guide bolts and apply a light coat of lubricant to the smooth surface of them. Align them properly through the rubber boots and bolt the caliper to the knuckle. Tighten the guide bolts using the wrench. Remove the wheel nut from the wheel stud securing the rotor.
    15. Step 14 Replace the wheel and wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts snugly, and re-tighten them (with a torque wrench is recommended set at 100 foot pounds) once the LeSabre is back on the ground.
    16. Step 15 Repeat steps 5 through 14 for the right side.
    17. Step 16 Pump the brake pedal when you're through to seat the new pads against the rotors, then check and add new brake fluid to the master cylinder.

    Jul 16, 2009 | 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage

    1 Answer

    I have a bad wheel bearing how do I replace it


    Hub and Bearing Assembly
    ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:
    • A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
    • A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.
    Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal.

    Removal
    1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
    1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
      Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
    1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
    1. NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.

      Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
    1. Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
    1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
      For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
      Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
    1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
      If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
    1. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
    1. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
    1. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
    1. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.


      df1570a.gif


      Item Part Number Description 1 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) Metric Hub Remover Adapter 2 204-067 (T81P-1104-A) Front Hub Replacer 3 — Turn Wrench Counterclockwise 4 — Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench 5 204-069 (T81P-1104-C) Front Hub Remover/Replacer 6 204-067 (T81P-1104-A)1 Two Stud Adapter A — Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)
    1. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
    1. NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.

      NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.

      Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .


      f8656a.gif

    Installation
    1. NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.

      Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
    1. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
    1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
      Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
    1. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
    1. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
    1. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
    1. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
    1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
      Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
    1. NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.

      Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
    1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
      Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
    1. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
    1. Lower vehicle.
    1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.

    May 28, 2009 | 1999 Ford Taurus

    1 Answer

    Just want to know how to put the rotors on the car.


    If your rotors (new ones) came as just the rotor with no center hub, just remove the brake caliper, take the rotor off and put the new one back on. But, the one i think you have is a bit different...with hub attached. On that one, remove the center cover, cotter pin and nut.
    Remove caliper. push on one side of the rotor and the outer bearing and washer will come out. Put the parts aside and pull on the rotor and it will come off. Put the nut back on the spindle and put the rotor on over the nut, "hook" the inner bearing on the nut as you give the rotor a quick tug (like removing it) and inner bearing will come out.
    Clean and re-pack bearings and install (I recommend you replace the inner seal.) Put together in reverse order of removal, tighten nut snugly but not really tight, turn rotor while tightening. It is tight enough when there is no wobble in the rotor. that is all you need.Don't forget the cotter pin. If hole does not align, tighten do not loosen nut till hole aligns.

    Apr 24, 2009 | Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    How to change the front wheel hub for 2000 LINCOLN LS


    hi you will have to remove the wheel,grease cap from the hub remove the brake caliper and move aside (do not seporate rubber line). (discard caliper bolts can not be reused) remove rotor,wheel hub retainer nut (and discard nut can not be reused) in order to remove the hub

    install

    hub and new nut and tighten new nut to 189-254 ft.lbs
    rotor new grease cap seal
    brake caliper with 2 new bolts tighten to125-170 ft.lbs
    wheel tighten to85-104 ft.lbs
    pump the brake pedal befor moving car

    Feb 06, 2009 | 2000 Lincoln LS

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