Question about Ovens
GE Monogram We turned on the self cleaning and the oven self cleaned for over 5 hours. Then it stoppe self cleaning for 10 hours with no heat. Now the oven door is locked and will not open
Unfortunately, the high temperature limit sensor probably failed during the self-clean cycle. The oven control unit will not receive the signal that the oven is cool enough to unlock the door without the sensor.
If the oven is cool, you can try unplugging the oven for a while and then see if the oven unlocks after power is restored. Pressing the Cancel button several times (or pressing and holding Cancel, depending on the model) may also work. Sometimes, starting a new cleaning cycle and then stopping it (and waiting for the oven to cool) will work.
However if the sensor has failed, the above steps are unlikely to work. You can try to move the lock manually. On some models, you can use a bent coat hanger to slide between the oven door and the frame and push the lock over. On other units, you might open the back panel and rotate the lock mechanism cam.
The oven will not work until the high temperature sensor is replaced. Sometimes the lock mechanism fails and that is what needs to be replaced. If the oven works, then look at replacing the lock motor.
I hope this helps. If your oven is under warranty, contact GE for the repair. Please add a comment with the model of your unit for specific information on the parts you may need.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cant unlock self clean oven door
Door lock motor has probably failed.....Self clean on many ovens can be a self destruct mode. Door latch motors, sensor probes and even the electronic controls can be destroyed by this operation. Suggest oven cleaner method.
Posted on May 29, 2008
My oven door stays locked , when I press the clear button I get F1?
I hold the clear button for a few seconds and still nothing.
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
Posted on May 20, 2009
Hello- First off, do not use 'self clean', or as most Techs call it: "Self- Destruct". This 'feature' cheerfully sold by the salesman destroys more oven and range components than any other failure. Now- the racks had a thin layer of grease on them when the oven tried to turn stuff inside the oven to ash. The grease is now a hard rubbery coating on the surface of the rack. To solve this problem, you must determine by observation, where the rack touches the sides of the oven. These contact areas need to be cleaned thoroughly with scotchbrite and a small portion of oven cleaner. Make sure you use gloves. Sliding rack in and out to 'mark' these small spots works pretty good. Once cleaned and wiped down, they should work fine. I recommend cleaning by removing as much 'stuff' by scraping and wiping down with moist cloth. Turn on to 450deg for 30 min. Much safer, less costly. Please acknowledge this posted solution if helpful. Have more info if needed- Thanks -Ed
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
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