Question about Juki DDL-8700

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How to set up DDL8700 for free motion stitching i.e. Tension, stitch length etc.

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I need help with my juki 8700-7 computer cs 910a
error 007

Posted on Feb 11, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

I'm **t sure what you mean by freehand stitching........do you get a good even stitch with zig zag, this is the most important first test ?

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....**w for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you can**t form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me k**w if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "k**tting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and **t to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do **t gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would **t recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small *****s and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (**t soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is ** lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension ***** in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other ***** at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is **t a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's ** trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension ***** very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it can**t be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....** case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (a**ther reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Mar 09, 2008

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!

Sounds as though you may have a burr or rough spot on the hook where the bobbin inserts. Run your finger along the edge of the hook to see if there are any rough spots.I'm sure you're going to find at least one from the time you broke the needle.Once you locate it, remove it with an emery stick or small sharpening stone. Polish it so that it is smooth. Should work okay.
sewman7

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

Mongo32
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: I bought a second hand Juki industrial machine ,

upper tension sets the lower thread tension (upper thread is what you see on the underside of the fabric). Bobbin tension is for the thread you see on the top of the fabric

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

Zenqi
  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: loops cross over on both sides - wavy pattern develops

Several things may be causing this.

First, make sure that the wire rack is DIRECTLY above the cones of thread (it may be backward). The thread must come straight up from the cone as it pulls off. Not coming straight up will cause a wavy stitch because of the thread dragging on one side of the cone.

Make sure that the threads are fully pulled into the tensioners, not riding on top of the discs.

Inspect the needle plate and ensure that the stitch forming pins and or fingers are intact.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you! I will take a look at all these suggestions...this is a big help."

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I am having problems with

It is a timing issue. I have a TL98E. The needle bends a bit when free motion quilting, moving the needle away from the hook, thus missing the thread. Try to put in a larger needle, or have the timing changed so that the hook "kisses" the size needle that you want to use. Tammy

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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Singer 29k71 stitch length on the longest still not enough about 2 mm..! What can be done..!?


If that is the maximum stitch length and you do not have a basting stitch, then you can't make a larger stitch. You could try free motion stitching where you drop the feed dogs, use a darning foot and manually move the fabric, but getting the stitches even would be quite difficult.

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I can not remember how to set my Viking Designer 1 for free motion sewing


Drop the feed dogs and install a darning or free motion presser foot. Be sure to use a brand new needle. The stitch width should be set on zero. The stitch length really doesn't matter since you will be manipulating the material manually.

Then you will need to test on a scrap sandwich block made up of your fabric and batting to adjust the tension. Tension is appropriate when the upper and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the sandwich without any thread looping or pulling.

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What tension settings should I use on my Janome 2160DC for free motion Quilting? I have set the stitch length to zero. Do I set the right hand number to what as it wont go to zero? Thank you Julie


You'll need to experiment with your machine tension on scraps of the same fabric and batting you intend to use for FMQ. Usually, the upper tension needs to be loosened some to prevent bobbin thread from being pulled to the top of the fabric, but that too is a matter of testing until it is where you like it. The stitch length is not important as long as you drop the feed dogs so it will not attempt to pull the fabric or create any interference with your manually moving the fabric. (A silicon Slider is nice to have--you can find them on the internet. It creates a slick surface so your fabric will move easily.) You will manually determine the stitch length because you will be manipulating the fabric. Also, be sure to use a darning foot or free motion quilting foot so there is space between the foot and the needle plate to move the fabric. Install a brand new sharp needle. Some people like to use Microtex, embroidery or top stitch needles. Beyond that, Practice, Practice, Practice! Practice making smooth movements. If you can't practice on the machine, get a cheap white board and practice drawing your designs on the board. You can erase and do it over and over, even while you're sitting watching your favorite TV show. If you like a particular design, take a photo of it with your cell phone so you can refer to it later.

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1 Answer

Bobbin thread will not catch unless the foot is down?


Ashleigh--Your machine will work satisfactorily ONLY if the presser foot is down. When the presser foot is up, the tension disk is released, therefore, no tension = a big knot of thread.

To free motion quilt, you should drop the feed dogs. Install a darning foot (this foot is shorter in length so when it is lowered, there is a space between the presser foot and needle plate). The space allows the fabric to be moved easily while stitching.

Some sewists will free motion quilt without a presser foot (if they don't have a darning foot), but that is very dangerous as one can easily sew through a finger. However, even when sewing without a presser foot, the presser foot mechanism needs to be lowered in order to properly form stitches.

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1 Answer

Do I need to use tension with free motion foot


Yes, the tension setting for 'free motion' and for 'sewing' is the same AND there must be tension; otherwise the top thread will form huge loops on the underside and eventually totally jam. Also make sure that the presser foot is down ... it is often easily left up as the 'free motion foot' disguises it.
The stitch length is irrelevant in free motion as the stitch length is determined by how fast the fabric is moved by the operator while maintaining constant speed (or close to constant).
A couple more items to check: make sure that the 'feed dogs' are either lowered or covered (depending on your machine model) AND that the 'free motion foot' is installed correctly.
Enjoy free motioning.

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Which model are you using? Creative 4.5?, On the newer machines it drops automatically once the embroidery attachment is hooked up. On older Creatives v2.x there is a slide lever in front of the presser foot on the front.

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How do I set my pfaff mahine up for free motion quilting


try dropping the feed dogs, & reduce the top thread tension one number at a time till the stitches are normal

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What steps do I need to take to do free motion stitching on my Kenmore 19233


Hi. You'll need to lower the feed dogs and use a darning foot. Use a straight stitch and set the stitch length to 0. Depending on what thread you use, you may need to adjust the tension. Keep the fabric taut (or use a hoop) and experiment on scraps to get the results you want.

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How do I set the tension on my Necchi 3101? I want to freehand motion quilt on it.


The tension is not changed.

You lower the feed dogs, or change the stitch length to zero and cover the feed dogs by taping an index card (make a hole for the needle) over them.

Be sure to use a darning or free motion foot and have the presser foot down when stitching.

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1 Answer

Proper Settings


A good standard tension setting is usually around 4.5.
If you find it to be looping on the bottom, raise your top tension. If it's pulling bobbing thread to the top, lower your top tension.
For straight stitch, your stitch width should be set to zero, although on some machines (and I believe your Baby Lock to be one of them,) the stitch width setting will change your needle position.
Stitch length is simply a matter of preference.

-R

Aug 14, 2008 | Baby Lock Ellure

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