Question about Maytag Dishwashers
MDW 700 EDWG - All dishwasher cycles start, then finish within 2 minutes, no water appears to go into the main compartment, but water goes into the machine, then drains. Looking to check the float valve, but cannot find a diagram of where to find it. Thanks
Pull out your bottom rack, in one of the bottom corners of your dishwasher there will be a circular plastic piece. it is probably stuck in the up position . Wiggle it around, it should sit loosely in place. It's a float, so when water fills in your washer, the float should raise up, when the water is draining, the float should lower with the water. That's why the float should be sitting loose in position.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We had this problem with our machine.
There turned out to be a few things that caused it:
- Firstly, the float assembly (an orange looking float in a little chamber, visible if you take off the left-hand panel of the machine) was clogged - we cleaned this and it seemed to help.
- The heat exchanger matrix was full of debris - we tried to clean this but ended up damaging it and bought a new one.
.. these two things seemed to improve the cleaning and the machine worked for a while.
The real problem though (which caused it to pump out continuously) turned out to be a failed seal on the circulation pump.
If you look on page 4 of the following link:
.. you will see a diagram of the bottom of the machine - the part that failed was 171598, which you can see on the bottom middle-to-right hand side of the picture..
The rubber had perished very badly, and it was causing water to leak into the bottom of the machine, which triggers 'flood mode' whereby it pumps continuously and doesn't actually wash the dishes.
The part costs about £5 - fitting it is not straightforward though, as you need to strip the machine down which is a pretty involved job.
If you think you're up to it, the steps I followed were:
- Remove both side panels
- On the left hand side, remove heat exchanger matrix and float assembly
- Remove kick-panel under the front door
- On the right hand side, remove all wiring from the door to the machine (including an earthing wire which is screwed to the side of the machine) - note that there are two wires which go to push-on connectors which have to be removed separately - all the others go to connector blocks.
- Inside the machine, remove the wire baskets, spray arm and bottom filter.
- Remove the lid from the salt dispenser - and now the tricky part, you need to find something that will allow you to remove the large plastic 'nut' that holds the salt dispenser to the machine.
- Remove the two screws in the bottom of the machine (167241 in the diagram mentioned above)
- Now, shut the door and then disconnect the door spring mechanism from the left and right side of the door.
- Disconnect the string from the door closing mechanism from the springs at the left and right back corners, under the machine.
- Remove the two screws at the back of the machine which connect the top of the machine to the base.
- Remove the two screws at the front of the machine which connect the top of the machine to the base (these are quite low down, near the door hinges).
Now, you should be able to lift the top of the machine off the base, and will have access to the pump etc.
... re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly ;-)
This took me a couple of hours - it might be better to find somebody who will do it for you for fixed cost as it's a pig of a job.
For what it's worth, there seemed to be very few places where the machine could leak - and this looked to be the major one - and there are a few push-fit pipes which are worth checking out too.
Hope this helps somebody.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
OK Bosch Dw fans.........here is the fix if your SHX dishwasher is stuck on the drain cycle. This may save you a couple hundred bucks.......so listen up. There is a tendency for the very small float switch to STICK in the ON position, which will cause the drain motor to continuously run......and DISallow any other function to work. DISCONNECT POWER. Did I mention to disconnect power? Take off the front base cover....2 torx screws. Remove the other 2 torx screws in the metal clips that fasten the top of the DW to the underside of your countertop. NOW...carefull slide your DW out. You may have to disconnect your water and elec supply if you do not have enough slack to pull it out. Once the DW is out of the cabinet, remove the shiny metal cover on the LEFT side by removing a single torx screw. You will now see a small plastic assembly with a red plastic piece that moves up and down as it rides on a small red styrofoam float. This up and down movement engages a small white plastic switch visible with 3 wires coming out of it. You can carefully UNSNAP this switch out of its mount, and pull the 3 wire plug off of it. THere is a small square blue plastic tab that is supposed to easily slide in and out of the switch. If it is stuck IN, you can sometimes tap the switch and the blue tab will pop out, which is what it is supposed to do without tapping it. You can carefully with a knife blade separate the case on this switch and note the way it comes apart. Clean out any micro debris out of the small channels that the blue tab ride up and down in. Then set it in the channel while holding up the small switch tab that rides on it and see if it slides up and down without sticking! I like to take a piece of wax paper and rub in on the channel and blue tap to provide some lube for the switch to slide easily on. Now, put the switch back on and manually move the red plastic assembly up and down while you are watching the blue tab. The tab should ride up and down with the red assy. If not, buy a new switch. Google the # on the switch and order one. If the tab slides up and down, put things together in reverse order and give it a try. Hope it works for you. This should take you an hour give or take. Take the $200 you just saved and have a night out on me. ........so even though these German Appliances have a good name because of past reliability, the american tendency to value engineer them with plastic parts to reduce costs and increase profit.........just cost you an hour of your time. Will we ever learn.? ......if it ain't broke, value engineer it until it only lasts through the warranty period so you can then collect service and parts blood money from your fellow american.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
SOURCE: Machine won't drain fully
If the drain pump is working fine, and water flows from the machine and there are no clogged drain lines, then the problem is usually the water level sensor.
This is usually a floater sensor located on a side inside the dishwasher.
Check if water level is working properly, if the floater is too low then that is the problem.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
The most common cause of an OE error code on a modern LG dishwasher is:
1. Blocked drain hose
2. Obstruction in the sump area (beneath the filter, which needs to be removed to check for onstruction)
3. Failing drain motor.
else you need to REPLACE THE PCB POWER CONTROL BOARD
Posted on May 06, 2009
I have a SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
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The problem is with the float switch assembly that is bad and needs replacement. A float switch on a dishwasher is designed for one thing, to stop the water flow from the dishwashers water valve. To access the dishwasher float switch regardless of the make or model, 99% of dishwashers are accessed from behind the toe kick panel i.e by removing the front bottom access panel. When the timer or main control call for water, power is sent through the float switch wires, when the dishwasher has filled up raising the plastic mushroom looking piece high enough, the switch will stop power from getting to the water valve. That is the idea behind the switch, to further test this switch with a volt meter you can view this video: Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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