Question about MTX Thunder 1501D Car Audio Amplifier

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Blown 1501d ive found the 7533p replacements that were blown at mouser.com there are two resistors r435 & r436 that i cannont read the numbers on to reorder them any idea what they are thanks email is ggtnascar@yahoo.com

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  • oneggt Oct 19, 2007

    thank you very much     do i get them from mouser.com     im not sure how to find them

  • oneggt Oct 22, 2007

    thank you    you are great     have a great week

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  • Master
  • 631 Answers

R435 is 39.2 ohms. If R436 is the other gate resistor, it's also 39.2 ohms.

Posted on Oct 18, 2007

  • Perry Babin Oct 19, 2007

    292-39.2-RC (mouser number)



     



    The resistors are 0805 size. The number above should be a good replacement. 

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JL Audio 250/1 blown power trans blown resistors possibly shorted transformer How do I test


You should get the schematic for it. I can tell if your reference to trans is for transistor or transformer. If you mean transistor, in that power circuit they are most likely http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Siliconix/IRFZ44PBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvARmQSk64rFx%252biHG2Aqv9T. See if you can see any references to the parts on the board. One of the others that fails often is: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=4kLU8WoGk0vGgdnitUP0Eg%3d%3d and
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=4kLU8WoGk0vWou9qAZ%252bg5w%3d%3d

Jan 06, 2014 | Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Tv repairman stated that i need a FET transistor part # PQPF13N50C I can't find anywhere. please help


Try Mouser.com
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/FQPF13N50CF/?qs=usxs4w7dJKRRV2CAJ%2fokDA%3d%3d

More likely that the Gate drive resistor and diode and the Source resistor may be bad also, do not just put in the new one without checking the surrounding circuits.

If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:

Please see my basic troubleshooting guide here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

Dec 21, 2010 | Digital Lifestyle FA1B32Z 32 in. LCD...

1 Answer

Loud crack when turning unit on, blows main fuse no lights come on.. bottom of power supply black and signs of burn...


DO NOT REPLACE THE FUSE !!! You will do more damage.

I just repaired one of these. A small ceramic surface mounted cap very near where the +/- 85 volt connectors plug onto the board blew up.

This left a sputtered mess on the insulating material at the right rear corner of the power supply.

The net parts list of parts I had to replace:

1. Main IGBT transistors on heat sinks. You have to remove the heat sinks to get at the mounting screws. 1MBK50D or equivalent. I used DigKey part APT28GA60BD15

2. One 1N4148 surface mount diode that is for gate drive speedup. D24 and D25. (don't remember which one was shorted)

3. All four driver transistors for the gate of the IGBT's. @ each 2SA1020 (PNP) and 2SC2655 (NPN). These are tall TO92-like transistors and I believe that at least one of these I had to get from Mouser.

4. Transistor T9, suface mount BC856B (PNP)

5. Replaced all four surface mount caps, one had exploded.
C50, C51,C54,C56. Replace with 0.01mfd/200 Volt 1206 style surface mount caps Digikey 478-1511-6

6.Replaced ceramic wire wound 10 Watt stand up resistors that were blown open. Replaced with 20 ohm design change. These slowly charge the main input filter caps and when supply is stable, a relay shorts them out. If you have replaced the fuse, you LIKELY blew them out. Original value was 10 ohms on some units. This was a Mouser part. 280-PRM10-20-RC

7. The 2153 switching reg chip IC1. This chip shorts. It is made by International Rectifier and I believe the full number is something like IRF2153. I had these in stock and not sure of which source I had procured them from... It was from one or the other.

Lots of destruction and one really needs a desoldering station to work this. Removal of the blown IGBT's is especially tough. All solder must be removed from the transistor leads AND the thermistor on one of the heat sinks. Once you have verified the leads are loose, one has to rock the heat sinks to get the tabs free. The tabs are NOT soldered! Be careful when restoring to get the thermistor leads started in their holes.

Note: ALL these repair parts were procured from DigiKey.com and Mouser.com. Neither of these places had all, I had to order from both. Mouser had the ceramic resistors.

When restarting this, leave outputs disconnected until it is running again. USE a series 75 watt light bulb in the 120 volt input. ONLY work on the unit using an isolation transformer as a large portion of this is connected right to the power line.

There is a small 15 volt switching supply that comes on first that runs the relay to short out the inrush limiting resistors. With the 2153 shorted as usual, this auxilary supply can't reach voltage enough to turn on the relay. The power for this is supplied through the ceramic resistors.

May 08, 2010 | Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer

1 Answer

I have an 03 Chrysler T & C. The blower motor runs on high and I cannot adjust the fan speed. If I turn the heater off, the vent fan runs. In other words, I cannot turn off the heat. I can adjust...


You have a bad blower motor resistor. It is located right behind your in-dash passenger-side glove box, and is bolted to the heating duct with 2 8mm hex screws. The replacement part usually runs about $85, but if you have a soldering gun and some handyman skills, you can replace the bad component (called a "mosfet") on the circuit board itself for about $2. The mosfet is basically a fancy resistor that allows you to control the blower speed by lowering the voltage that passes through it. It can be found at: www.mouser.com , part number 511-STP85NF55. Once you have the part removed from the van, you can locate the bad resistor right next to the aluminum heatsink. It's not only soldered to the circuit board, it's also glued & held tight to the heatsink by a metal clip. Good luck!

Mar 02, 2010 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Has anybody ever replaced an entire crossover assembly (circuit board) in a Alesis Monitor One? Specifically, does the woofer need to come out, and if so, how?


Look here:

http://www.instrumentalparts.com/crossover-pcb-board-for-alesis-monitor-one--mk-1-and-m.html

and here: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-15436568105612_2091_46855693

See that 8.2 mfd bi-polar and one of those white ceramic cased resistors???. Those parts feed your tweeter... One of them is bad. You can buy the board for $30 or spend a couple bucks for those parts.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-NPAL100V47-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22WuTsnx9Abs03070dCRY8QE%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-NPAL100V33-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UhSjrTM10DE0iKGiddcDi0%3d

Put one each of the above two capacitors in parallel to make 8 mfd to replace the 8.2 mfd and it will work fine. They only cost 74 cents each. You can find the resistors as well from Mouser.com.

IF YOUR crossover is potted in a hard material, that probablly destroyed the caps. The caps would have to be encased in a foam before hard potting as the shrinkage of the potting material would crush the caps a bit and cause failure.

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3 Answers

I have a Philips 42" Plasma that will not power up, blown T8AH


http://www.newark.com/littelfuse/0215008-mxp/cartridge-fuse/dp/42K9308

Fuse is a "Littelfuse 0215008.MXP"
8A 250V Slow-blow ceramic

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1 Answer

Blown mosfet


Hello dancisbrown,

If you or someone you know is relatively skilled at soldering, you should be able to replace the MOSFET. The problem may be in determining a suitable replacement. First get the data off of the blown component and then go here to the MOSFET cross-reference guide. http://clivetec.superihost.com/MOSFETs.htm

After you have found a replacement, go here to purchase the new one. http://www.mouser.com/

You might want to consider replacing all 4 while you have the board out.

Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

I have an audiobahn a2300hct with blown components.


IRFZ48ZPBF-ND

^ from Digikey.com are a good replacement. You need to replace all of the Z48s on the side of the amp where the ones that failed were located. Digikey will also have the resistors. There may be other problems. If you're new to repair work, read through the following page.

Basic Amplifier Repair

Let me know if you have any other questions.

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1 Answer

Mta 1501d


You need to switch your meter to ohms and measure the resistance across them. You should read something near 4.75 ohms.

4.75 ohms would cause a constant tone on diode check or continuity.

Did you replace all 8 output transistors?

If not, are you sure that the other 4 transistors haven't failed?

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1 Answer

Neff combi blown diode.


If the diode failed by opening, there may be no other damage. If the dioded failed by shorting, the alternating current may have damaged other components. Ohm it out. You can get diodes from digikey.com, mouser.com, or radio shack or any electronics or appliance supply. If the diode is charred and you can't get the part number, the oven rating can be used to select a replacement. Since the fuse was 10 amps, the diode should also handle at least 10 amps. If you can power the unit and read the voltage at the diode input this will give you the power (volts times amps). It's always worth trying as it's cheaper than replacing the unit.

Oct 14, 2007 | Neff H7871N2GB Convection / Microwave Oven

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