Question about Whirlpool Dryers
Quiet Dry I dryer blows cold air
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's call a bad thermal cut-out. You should have a thermal cut-out and a high limit thermostat located adjacent to the heating element (usually mounted right on the heating element housing). They both should read a short or fairly low resistance in the case of the thermostat. If the thermal cut-out is blown it is not a resettable device and must be replaced. The tco is usually sold along with the high limit thermostat. It is HIGHLY recommended that you replace BOTH at the same time. DO NOT attempt to bypass any of these devices either. They are there as safety devices to prevent overheating. You could end up with a fire if you do. Now...with all that said, the tco will blow for a reason. Not cleaning the lint trap will contribute to it, but the big item is the ducting. If the vent ducting is clogged you will experience longer dry times and eventually the tco will trip again. Take the time to THOROUGHLY clean and/or replace your vent ducting from the wall all the way to the vent opening outside. In addition, while you have the dryer open THOROUGHLY clean the inside as well. This includes the air baffle where the blower fan is located. Rule of thumb: if you have lint INSIDE the dryer, it's clogged somewhere. Good luck and I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 22, 2007
SOURCE: Dryer not heating
The dryer timer, located in back of the control panel, controls several things: the drying time of the clothes in the drum, the flow of electricity to the heating element, and the flow of power to the timer motor and the drum motor in the dryer cabinet.
Timers are driven by synchronous motors. Although the contact part of the timer can be cleaned and adjusted on some dryers, this is a job for a professional repair person. Timer motor repairs should also be handled by a professional, but you can replace a faulty timer yourself. Here's how to test and replace a dryer timer:
Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it's turned.
Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the timer with a new one of the same size and type.
Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.thank you
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Posted on Dec 02, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: I have a Roper gas
You have a bad thermostat, flame sensor, thermal fuse, gas valve solenoids, or the high limit thermostat. Below is a video to walk you thru the diagnostic testing and repair.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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