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First things first my friend. You must test the gage to be sure it is good. Normal procedure is: Switch off, unplug the wires from the sending unit at tank, connect jumper between the power wire and ground wire in the connector block, go to the switch and turn it to run position. If the needle goes to full, the gage is good. Turn the switch off. Now, be sure the connection is plugged in completely and you've a GOOD ground on the sending unit tab on the top of sending unit. No ground, no working needle. Use the test light to find if there's continuity with ground tab using power wire and touch the ground. No light, work with it till you do. Clean stuff to make the ground on tab work. Once test light does light between power and ground tab, your good. Gage should definitely be working now. If it doesn't work, this calls for replacing the sending unit in tank by dropping the tank first. Then it's easy to replace the sending unit.
Must agree with the others most likely thing is the flasher unit. If the seat belt reminder light isn't working its a good sign the units failed. They both use the same flasher which is why the seat belt light changes speed when you turn the indicators on. Hope you find the problem soon.
I had the same problem. An audible pop and the lights stopped. Fans still works, light bulb filaments appear intact. My problem was that a short piece of the copper on the printed circuit board, inside the switch housing, had vaporized as if it were a fuse. I soldered a bridge of copper wire across the small 5mm gap and all was working again. Access the switch compartment by removing the filters, undo a couple of retaining screws to remove switch unit. Make sure the electricity to the unit is Off/unplugged before proceeding!!! Switch unit cover has 4 screws holding it on. Once inside the unit, trace the wire (mine was grey colour) from the light switch to the small printed circuit board. The copper printed circuit link to the connector had gone...no sign of burning, just gooone! Solder a bridge of copper wire across the gap and reassemble switch unit to test. ....send beer donations to me in qld...cheers!!!
If all the rest of the lights are working, I'd look for a bad ground. I'm not sure but the running light may be controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. I have a diagram of an earlier unit and wiring but it's from a model that did not have running lights.
The light has two functions, as a running light and a turn signal light if we're talkin about the same light unit. It must be switched for a continous 12 volt supply for the running light to a pulsed 12 volt supply to operate as a turn signal. This switching is controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. You'll need the pin-out and trouble shooting information for the newer unit.
Have you tried changing the flasher unit (the small plugin unit that makes the click sound when flashing)?
These units come in several variations - perhaps an unsuitable unit has been installed.
If none of the above suggestions help, you should re-check the operation on the turn signal switch.
In one of the turn positions, if you bridge out the 2 correct pins of the flasher unit, the indicators on one side should light when you move the switch to that position.
Move the switch to the other turn position, and the indicator lights on that side should light.
If none of the above helps, you will need a vehicle wiring diagram to help find the problem.