- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Must agree with the others most likely thing is the flasher unit. If the seat belt reminder light isn't working its a good sign the units failed. They both use the same flasher which is why the seat belt light changes speed when you turn the indicators on. Hope you find the problem soon.
I had the same problem. An audible pop and the lights stopped. Fans still works, light bulb filaments appear intact. My problem was that a short piece of the copper on the printed circuit board, inside the switch housing, had vaporized as if it were a fuse. I soldered a bridge of copper wire across the small 5mm gap and all was working again. Access the switch compartment by removing the filters, undo a couple of retaining screws to remove switch unit. Make sure the electricity to the unit is Off/unplugged before proceeding!!! Switch unit cover has 4 screws holding it on. Once inside the unit, trace the wire (mine was grey colour) from the light switch to the small printed circuit board. The copper printed circuit link to the connector had gone...no sign of burning, just gooone! Solder a bridge of copper wire across the gap and reassemble switch unit to test. ....send beer donations to me in qld...cheers!!!
If all the rest of the lights are working, I'd look for a bad ground. I'm not sure but the running light may be controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. I have a diagram of an earlier unit and wiring but it's from a model that did not have running lights.
The light has two functions, as a running light and a turn signal light if we're talkin about the same light unit. It must be switched for a continous 12 volt supply for the running light to a pulsed 12 volt supply to operate as a turn signal. This switching is controlled by the turn signal cancelling unit. You'll need the pin-out and trouble shooting information for the newer unit.
First thing make sure the main switch is in the middle (door) position. and yes, if the switch has an open circuit in the middle position it would cause this concern. The entry lighting system is controlled by a control unit (MICU) which is integrated into the under-dash fuse box. When you turn the main switch on or on individually at each light it electrically bypass the control unit and goes straight to ground. If the lights work manually than you know the fuse is good. For some reason the control unit may not be turning the lights on, due to a possible bad input to the control unit or a bad control unit itself. Check those door switches for open circuits and see if the lights come on if you open another door. If they do, the problem is the drivers door switch and this is the most common failure I've seen, but this effects drivers door only. Its unlikely that all the door switches went out at once. The center dash panel is held in by clips so you'll have to pry the panel out. take care not to scratch the panel. wrap a pocket screw driver with electrical tape or get a plastic trim tool. -hope this helps
Have you tried changing the flasher unit (the small plugin unit that makes the click sound when flashing)?
These units come in several variations - perhaps an unsuitable unit has been installed.
If none of the above suggestions help, you should re-check the operation on the turn signal switch.
In one of the turn positions, if you bridge out the 2 correct pins of the flasher unit, the indicators on one side should light when you move the switch to that position.
Move the switch to the other turn position, and the indicator lights on that side should light.
If none of the above helps, you will need a vehicle wiring diagram to help find the problem.
I am in the middle of a discussion with Heath/Zenith over a closely related and perhaps identical issue. I purchased their 5718 model from Home Depot and based on the fact that their brochure stated that "CFL bulbs are only usable on 270 degree units." I purchased the model 5718 unit (270 degree) and used CFL bulbs. It experienced the same problem others noted.
The technician at Heath/Zenith told me that only DIMMABLE CFL bulbs would work with this unit (even if the DualBrite feature is turned off). Standard CFL bulbs will not work.
Their brochure does not make that clear. Perhaps that is the answer to others' problems.