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Re: Won't run at a constant speed.
Your carbeurator is gummed up. Put some carbeurator cleaner additive in your fuel, making sure that it is fresh gasoline, not gas that has been sitting in a can all winter. Also, spray some carb. cleaner into the air intake which is accessable by removing the air filter. Finally, if the air filter is dirty, replace it. happy power washing!
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if it is a carby engine then check the settings of the automatcic choke and the throttle cam screw settings
it works in a manner so that when you press on the accelerator the automatic choke flips a cam around and the idle speed screw rests on that cam giving a high idle speed until the engine is hot enough not to need a choke at which point the cam is held clear of the idle screw
if efi engine run the fault codes to check for problem accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor.
Be sure the hook on the bimetallic spring contacts the choke shaft lever.
Install the cover and retainer and lightly tighten the screws.
Turn the ceramic element to align the mark on it with the middle mark on the housing.
The engine must be cold to make this adjustment.
Remove the air cleaner.
Find the automatic choke. It's the round thing on the upper right-hand of the carburetor. There is a wire coming to it from the positive side of the coil.
Note: The automatic choke is a round ceramic thing with the heating element wound inside of it. (The ceramic part may be covered with metal so that it looks just like the rest of the carburetor.) The choke is held in position by a triangular ring clamp and three screws so it can be loosened and rotated for adjustment.
Pull the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor down to free the little step arm (cam) that the screw at the top of the throttle lever rests on.
Note: This stepped "cam" is connected to the butterfly valve inside the throat of the carburetor by a shaft that extends all the way into the automatic choke. With the engine cold, the butterfly valve should be closed. As the engine warms up, the coil inside the automatic choke uncoils, opens the butterfly valve, and moves the cam to reduce the idle speed.
Release the throttle arm so that the return spring snaps it back. The little screw at the top of the throttle arm (again, with the engine cold) should now rest on the top step of the stepped cam. This sets the hi-idle, which is needed together with the choke on a cold engine to provide sufficient idle speed to keep the engine running until it warms up fully.
Loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the choke in place.
Keep your eye on the butterfly valve in the carburetor throat.
Turn the choke element clockwise (viewed from the right) until the butterfly is standing straight up, then turn the choke counterclockwise (viewed from the right) until the choke butterfly fully closes (barely -- not too tightly), then tighten the three screws that hold the choke in place.
Note: This is important; the automatic choke may be assembled wrong and not catching the hook on the coil spring at all.
Start the engine with the air cleaner off. As the engine warms up, make sure that the butterfly opens until it is standing straight up (full open) when the engine is fully warm. If it doesn't, readjust the choke until you get it right.
Note: The engine is now warm, so you won't be able to adjust the choke per the foregoing. Note the position of the notch on the side of the choke relative to the three little ridges on the body of the carburetor. If the butterfly is too far closed with the engine warm, turn the choke clockwise just a bit to straighten it up. The notch on the choke should never be too far outside of the three ridges on the body of the carburetor. If you are not able to adjust the choke using these method, something may be sticking, or perhaps the coil spring inside the canister is broken, or perhaps the wire has fallen off of the contact on the canister so that it is not getting power from the battery properly.
check your choke cable for proper function; at full throttle, butterfly valve should be perpendicular to the throttle body. Also check your fuel filter for contamination. Stone should be all one color, and free to follow the fuel supply as you move the trimmer into different positions
I'm guessing from the statement that it "will not work to increase speed" that you have been able to successfully start the chainsaw.
I have to look at this with the assumption that you haven't run a chain saw before, so bear with me if some of this is excessively simple.
If the throttle trigger does not move, something is jammed. The handle for the choke should automatically move to the retracted position when you pull on the throttle. If it doesn't, see if the trigger will move after you push the choke handle back in.
If the trigger moves in when you squeeze it but you don't hear any change in the engine sound then it's probable that the throttle wire has disconnected at the carburetor or at the handle.
Is the chain brake off? You need to pull it firmly back toward the upper handle for it to be disengaged. If the handle is forward it will lock the outer portion of the clutch. If you try to accelerate with it locked the engine will bog and not allow the chain to move.
Any of these conditions other than the chain brake will probably require some disassembly. Make sure you're confident that you've correctly reassembled everything if you're going to do it yourself.
i have your solution guaranteed, I fixed mine yesturday remove H L screw plastic caps and on high 11 threads exposed and on the low side 8 threads exposed. removing the plastic caps allows u further adjusting these wear out or move soo just take them things off and you will be rolling
Generally with two cycle engine as soon as the engine starts the choke needs to be moved to the off or open position. Some chokes have a middle position that lets the motor run until it is warm enough to move the choke into the open position. In other words weather it is a two or four cycle engine the choke is used only to start the engine. If you unit is newer and still does not run well with the choke in the open position, you may need to adjust the hi-speed circuit to a richer one.
what i've done in past is, i used ''carb choke cleaner'' or ''intake cleaner'' started the engine and sprayed right in to air filter , that worked almost every time. this is a first thing i do before i start taking things a part. this also happens after a long storage time. DO NOT flood the carburetor cause it may damage piston or cylinder.(just do it gently).