Question about Hoover Dryers
Sounds a bit like a train as if there is a high spot somewhere
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Knocking sounds
Ususally knocking is a sign that the rubber belt which spins the dryer tub is old and has hardened. If the knocking sound gets quieter after you have run the dryer for 30 minutes or so, then the belt is the problem. As the dryer turns, it heats up the rubber belt and makes the belt more pliable. This quiets the knock. I have seen dryers work fine for years, knocking the whole time. Have the belt replaced if the sound bothers you.
Posted on Sep 07, 2007
SOURCE: dryer making knocking sound
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication
If you have a front loading machine,
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
I hope this helps
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Hoover 5030d
It sounds like the engine shaft bearing. Fairly simple to fix or replace with the correct tools and know how.
Be sure to take photo's of the motor, tension arm, and any wiring.
You'll need pliers to remove the clamp from the fan, then remove the belt from the motor and make sure that's were the problem is before going any further.
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
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The engine and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
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