Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore 600
These washers are not designed to have the back panel removed. They are designed to have the entire cabinet come off in one piece. Its a failrly simple procedure. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
To reinstall the washer casing, follow these steps to ensure you get the case correctly placed and secure on the frame:
1. With the lid of the washer open, grasp the case under the front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
NOTE: o reinstall the back panel correctly you will need to pop the case loose from the frame and reinstall. That's why I included all these steps.
Read through everything thoroughly. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
See the section for the basket and tub assembly's
I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.
See the following:
If the hoses are fine, I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.
If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.
If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.
(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.
Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
if u got rooom just tip the unit back and get acesss underneath it will be a lil bit tighter space to work but will save you the time and hassle of removin the concole......... u will need a part # 285753A- whirlpool motor couplling.... most those consoles remove though by screws on backside corners or front corners, remove those tilit concole back remove brass brackets, wiring lid switch, pull cabinet off hope this helps
Posted on Feb 03, 2010
is the cold water all the way on?
if so, the first thing to do would be to check the screens in the cold water fill hose and the screen in the cold side of the water valve on the back of the machine. if that is not the problem then replace the water valve.
(turn the water off before taking the hose loose)
Posted on Jun 16, 2010
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