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• Remove rear panel & rear air duct. Remove belt from belttensioner. Remove top panel & drum if needed for better access.
• Disconnect terminal connector from motor, then remove two screws from motor mount & one screw holding fan to front shield. Lift rear of motor mount up and slide entire assembly toward rear of dryer.
• While holding motor shaft, not rotor fins, remove fan blade from motor shaft. Remove three screws, then remove fan housing from motor.
• Remove spring clamps by pushing ends of them down and away from motor. Lift motor up from motor mount.
Cage motor is the best blow out with compressed air. Also, by the way, clean the fan housing from the inside.
The GE dryer has a 120 volt motor. In case of lint build-up and air restrictions manufacturers install a non-resetable limit which is tied in with the door circuit. When the dryer overheats above 300f this limit kills the dryer.
Their is another 250f limit that mounts on the opposite side of the pan. The control klixon mounts on the blower housing The 2 smaller terminals fire off a small heater inside the control which makes it shut down faster for delicate and perma-press cycles. Clever no? The heater element mounts on the rear of the dryer The drum rides on a central bearing in the middle on the back side. This small plastic bearing will get thin and begin to sing a song: squeek, squeek, squeek! The front of the drum rides on slides. They get thin and tend to pinch clothes bind on the drum mount and generally make the motor bog down in some cases. In the past the old school GE dryer drum rides on these glides: You get into the dryer by opening the door and removing the screws holding down the top: Note: I worked one recently that simply had spring clips between the top and front panel, hay we don't need no stinking screws! After popping them clips on each end the top comes off there and has a green grounding wire that attaches to it. Then disconnect the screws and lid switch and remove the front panel: Push downwards on the idler and release the belt. Grab holt of that belt and use it to help you remove that drum: Once you get that drum out the innards look like this:
The belt goes around the drum with the ribbed side down. A twisted belt is a belt that is gonna get destroyed the minute you start that dryer. Make sure it ain't twisted. Note: GE uses different sized belts and different parts for components per production run. Make sure you give your model number (inside the door) to get the correct belt,element, glides, bearing,etc. They are not all the same. You can cut yourself easily on the stamped metal frame so be careful when wrangling that belt back on: Tip: To get the belt on there you gotta have 3 hands. Yank the idler from right to left till it is over the motor pulley then get a friend to hold that in place with the broom handle while you loop the belt over the top of the idler and under the motor pulley; then grab the idler and ease it back enough to remove the handle. Then let it go and all will be well. Give the drum a turn by hand and see if the belt is twisted. If the heater element is broken their is no need in buying the whole pan. The kit comes with directions to pre-stretch the coils to 42 inch's for the inner circle and 48 inch's for the outer circle. You want no gaps on in your restring because that would make the coil die quickly.
Lets talk gas heat for a moment: The gas dryer has the Flame sensor, ignitor, and coils like you might see in many other makes of gas dryers. When the control calls for heat it powers up the gas assembly. The ignitor, flame sensor,and coils are all energized at once. The coils will not operate unless the resistance in the circuit changes. To do it the ignitor and flame sensor has to be removed from the circuit.
The flame sensor has a bi-metal strip in it which opens and kills power to the ignitor.
With both the flame sensor and ignitor out of the circuit the coils yank open spring loaded valves and the raw gas ignites on the hot surface ignitor.
When the heat is about 160f in the drum (which takes no time) then power is removed from the gas assembly the heat goes off and the clothes tumble on till the temp inside the drum gets to 105f and then power is once more applied to the gas assembly. If the heat works some but quit those coils are getting hot and quiting.
Nothing is hard about repairing a good old GE dryer. I am including a video I found online a guy made on an older GE dryer; so that you can get an idea on fixing both older GE dryers and the newer ones.
That's all the smart pills I have for today. Rate it or Hate it:
This advice explains how to replace the heating element on Whirlpool Duet, Kenmore Elite and Maytag Epic dryers.
1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is turned off.
2. Open the door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You will not be able to remove the air blower cover with the lint screen in place.
3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: Propping the front feet of the dryer up can provide you better access to the screws (a 2x4 works well for this).
4. Disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (usually yellow wires with a white plug to the right of the blower assembly) and any ground wires that may be connected to the front panel.
5. Remove the air blower cover by locating and removing the mounting screws. NOTE: This is a good time to clean the blower fan housing, squirrel cage motor and dryer interior cabinet.
6. Remove the top panel of the dryer by locating and removing the screws holding the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then come off.
7. Locate the two screws that hold the operator console in place. There should be one on each side under the top panel. Remove the screws and carefully lift the panel straight up. NOTE: You do not need to disconnect the ribbon cables. Carefully lay the console across the top of the dryer out of the way.
8. Disconnect the door switch connector plug and remove the dryer front panel by locating the four screws that hold it in place. Loosen the two screws along the bottom of the panel and leave in place. Remove the top two screws and lift up and turn the whole front panel slightly counter-clockwise to release the drum supports from the dryer drum. NOTE: Make sure the dryer door is closed when removing the front panel to avoid damaging the door hinges.
9. Remove the dryer drum. Reach in behind the air blower with both hands and pull the idler pulley to the right with your right hand to release the tension and remove the dryer belt from the drive motor. With the belt still looped around the drum, you can use it like a handle to lift the entire drum up and out of the dryer.
10. With the drum removed, the heating components can easily be accessed. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat is located on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located at the back of the dryer, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
11. The entire heating assembly is removed by disconnecting all the components leads, followed by loosening the heater box mounting screw. With everything disconnected, the entire box and components will come free and lift out of the dryer. NOTE: Make sure you properly label all wiring to ensure they are reinstalled correctly.
12. There are a couple of mounting screws on the side of the heater box that holds the heating element in place. With the screws removed, the heating element will slide out of the box. NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the component disconnected from
the circuit to ensure accuracy. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat
will read something close to 0 ohms if GOOD. The Heating Element should read 9 to 13 ohms.
13. Insert new heating element into the heater box and align the screw holes. Replace any other defective components and reinstall heater box.
14. Reinstall dryer drum ensuring the back rim of the drum rests on the rear dryer drum supports. Make sure the belt is looped on to the drum with the ribbed side towards the drum.
15. Reinstall the dryer belt by releasing the belt tension pulley as listed above, then, with your left hand loop the belt over the drive motor pulley. Release the idler pulley making sure the belt rests on the drive motor pulley. You should feel the belt tighten with tension. If you need further clarification on how to properly route the dryer belt you can go to repairclinic.com and click on the "Repair Help" link at the top of the page. On the following page, locate the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section. Refer to diagram K. 16. Reinstall the front panel by turning it slightly counter-clockwise and aligning the front drum supports under the front of the drum. Once the supports are under the drum, turn the front panel clockwise and lift up, placing it on the bottom two screws. Reinstall and tighten the top two screws.
17. Reinstall the door switch connector plug and reinstall the operator console. Use caution not to put too much stress on the ribbon cables.
18. Reinstall dryer top panel.
19. Reinstall air blower cover and reconnect the auto dry sensor and ground wire.
20. Reinstall toe panel by inserting the top portion first and pushing up. Push lower portion of the panel in place and reinstall screws.
I know this may seem like a lot, but its actually fairly simple if you follow the steps provided. Read through everything before attempting any repairs. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
1 Unplug the power cord from the electrical socket. 2 Remove the screws located around the edges of the back panel of the DVLR223 dryer. Move the back panel away from the cabinet. 3 Push the idler pulley away from the belt to loosen the belt tension. Remove the screws on the panel behind the dryer drum. Remove the panel. 4 Remove the four screws located on the underside of the top panel. Lift the top panel off of the cabinet. 5 Lift the drum up through the top of the cabinet and set it aside. 6 Unplug the electrical wires connected to the heating element assembly. Remove the old heating element from the DVLR223. 7 Insert the new heating element where the old one was previously located. Plug the electrical wires into the heating element assembly. 8 Replace the drum inside the dryer cabinet. Replace the top panel and the four screws that go on the underside of it. 9 Replace the panel behind the drum. Replace the screws that hold it in position. 10 Reposition the back panel onto the DVLR223. Replace the sheet metal screws around the perimeter of the back panel.
you will need to remove the drum for this one. once it is out, the element is mounted on the back of the unit. not a hard repair, just lay out the parts as you take it apart to give you some order as you re-assemble it.
Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
Locate mounting slots in front of motor. (In some cabinets, there are two sets of slots for mounting the idler assembly. In this case, mount the idler assembly in the slots that line up under the grooves in the motor pulley.)
Install idler assembly into cabinet base by hooking mounting tab (A) into 1⁄4" wide mounting slots and setting mounting tabs (B) into the 3⁄16" wide mounting slot.
Make sure belt is around drum, with grooves down.
Route belt through the idler and around the motor pulley.
The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing
near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming
out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer
runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still
run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle)
thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas
valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the
no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is
energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor.
When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised
and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor
and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until
the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas
valve assembly. more here