Question about Maytag MSD2756GES Side by Side Refrigerator

3 Answers

Warm refrigerator I am having issues with my Maytag MSD2756GES. The freezer compartment only gets to about 40 degrees F and the refrigerator section is about 80 degrees F. I had a young service technician come over to replace a recalled relay for the compressor (the problem occurred prior to all of this). I was hoping that would fix the problem, but it did not. He thought it may be my compressor; however, he didn't really do any troubleshooting to come to that expensive conclusion. before i go spending so much money on buying a new compressor, I would rather troubleshoot this myself and see if I can't find the problem without spending $87/hour for some young kid to get his feet wet. Through other posts, it sounds as if it may be the defrost assembley. Does this sound right to you? Where is this piece physically located?

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  • ddal May 21, 2009

    Thanks for the response. Both fans do run when the compressor is running. I decided to check the evap coils in the freezer section and found them completely covered in ice. I defrosted the ice with a hair dryer and then figured the problem must have been the ADC. I replaced it with a brand new one and it seemed to be working. That was about 5 hours ago and the freezer section is only 20 degrees and the refrigeration compartment only gets to about 60 degrees. I also check across the defrost heating element and it was only 22 ohms. That could be another issue and perhaps the initial cause of my problems, but there is no ice build-up right now and it still won't cool. I am very skeptical about the compressor being bad. Do you think it could be the overload or PTC relay? Thanks again.

  • ddal May 21, 2009

    The temps have come down when I checked this morning. So, it is looking good for now.

    As for the defrost element, I thought the resistance should be 240k ohms. Maybe that is through the defrost thermostat? Thanks for the help.

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I had the same problem with my msd2756ae. We had been using the blow dryer, removing the rear panel in the freezer section, etc.

We replaced the adaptive defrost control board. Solved our problem. It's an easy replacement, located in the refrigerator section, top right---behind the temp. control slide. The hardest part is removing the top panel that holds the temperature slide. Then it's "pull and replace".

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Some simple things you could check. Can you tell how long compressor runs. Are both fans running while compressor is running? Is the compressor to too hot to touch? Is the condenser under refrigerator giving off warm air? And if all these things together while running and compressor not stopping, what is the freezer temperature and evaporator heat being taken away with the condenser fan? Is your freezer defrosting properly and have you checked the adaptive defrost control. Below is a link to that model. Put model number MSD2756GES into the search model feature and it will take you to your model. Click on photo 2 controls and part # 13 in the controls photo is what you need to have a look at, Let me know what you find and I will answer the compressor change now. ( Not worth changing if refrigerator is old) Let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

Posted on May 18, 2009

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  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 21, 2009

    Right now your refrigerator is trying to stabilize temperature. Just make sure the bottom grate where the condenser coil is located is clear of dirt and dust. The Adaptive defrost will put your refrigerator into defrost after it senses the time it has run with the evaporator cold. Not every eight to ten hours like a defrost timer. Yes there could be another problem, but right now we need to see if the temps will come on down. When they do come down is when we will see if it's defrosting like it should. Give the refrigerator a little more time to get to normal and make sure the coil below the refrigerator is clean. Let me know how it is tomorrow early, The heating element should show no resistance just the same as putting the two leads from your meter together.

    Thanks, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 21, 2009

    When you test the defrost element again make sure one wire is disconnected on one end and that the test does not include the defrost thermostat while testing the defrost element..

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 21, 2009

    You are possibly correct as to the ohms on the defrost element. I really never followed the amount of resistance or the measurement. I just always checked an element to see if the element had a broken circuit or not. Maybe I'm to old fashioned, but thanks for the vote of confidence. If there is a problem we know that it may be the only 2 parts we didn't change. I have checked elements before and had a good reading only to find out later that the wire connector had a bad connection. I found that one because the plastic cover on the crimp on wire connecter began to melt. About the only good way to test the defrost thermostat is while it's freezing. They open the contacts at around 50 degrees F. to protect the defrost from over heating and turn it off to keep from causing damage inside freezer. If you ever need to change the defrost element change the thermostat also. Thank You, Sea Breeze

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I had a problem with my Refrigerator Model # MSD2756GES. Freezer was fine but the Refrigerator would only cool down to 50. Replaced the adaptive defrost control board and the problem was fixed. Thanks Hydra133 for the help.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

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