Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Who posted this comment I am really appreciative. I have had the same problem with my dishlex. I disassembled the plumbing and removed a chunk of plastic wrapping from inside the pump. Then I checked the heater with a multimeter. It measured fine.
The next day I read this post and have since removed the controller. I found the burnt solder joint mentioned. I have since cleaned up the mess, repaired the circuit board, re-soldered the effected component and the dishwasher is now working better than ever.
I have read elsewhere that this problem arises when the door is opened while the heater is on and the program hasn't been paused. I don't know if that is the exact cause but in my house we will be more careful about that from now on.
The damage to the circuit board was on the Normally Open terminal of the relay used to control the heater. The heater is marked as being about 2100 watts. The relay is marked as being able to switch 125Vac. Which is interesting because power here in Australia is 240Vac. At 240Vac the heater will draw a little under 10 amps when operating.
Anyway the circuit board trace is possibly a little narrow at the point where the burnt connection was and I can see why it would have burnt out. The other terminals on the relay were showing signs of becoming dry joints too. The repair was effected by completely removing the relay, cleaning all the joints, re-soldering the relay and laying a loop of tinned solid wire around the burnt terminal to replace the missing piece of circuit trace.
Anyone who has a little skill with a soldering iron could perform this repair. The worst that could happen is you could lift what is left of the circuit trace from the board. Since the controller is already broken you can have a go and probably save yourself the cost of a new controller.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
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