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Ignitor assembly problem

Put new ignitor is not work so what could be ap[roblem

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Posted on Dec 28, 2013


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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a power flex 50 gal power vent model number pvg625ot6onv.. Serial number, 0932t413742. I got a new lighting element, and installed just fine but the actual ignitor keeps dropping to vacation...


Sorry to hear about your wife.
Please copy following links for Intellivent troubleshoot resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/
http://www.americanwaterheater.com/

Clean air intake located on bottom of heater using compressed air or feather duster. Use auto inspection mirror and flashlight to see under the unit.

Age of water heater appear on label on side of tank.
Look for serial number.
Powerflex is American water heater product (AO Smith)
First 2 digits of serial number is year of manufacturer, digits 3-4 are week during year.

Nov 26, 2012 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Igniter not working


The ignitor and solenoids along with the flame sensor are all wired together. If you are getting power to the gas assembly the first thing to check is if the flame sensor has continuity. If you have not got a meter you can touch these 2 together briefly to see if the ignitor comes on. Be careful amigo if you try this. If the lame sensor is working the ignitor should come on if power is getting to the gas assembly. The gas will not come out because the solenoids will not energize untill the ignitor is glowing. The ignitor acts as a thermocouple and allows for gas to flow only if the flame sensor has shut down AND fire is hitting the ignitor. No fire and she cools down and shuts off the solenoids. that is the built in safety. If you are not getting power to the gas assembly check the control thermostat and fuse miunted on the blower assembly. if either of these is bad no power can get to the gas assembly. How it works video i made:

Sep 26, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

The igniter glow bar gets bright and hot on the first burn in the drying cycle, however on subsequent urns it doesn't glow bright or long enough to ignite. What's up?


The ignitor is either going to be good or bad. If it fires off it is fine and if it is shutting down then the flame sensor is also working. That tells me your coils are weak and old.
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Here is how it works and why I believe you need to get new coils: When the dryer is cool first thing in the morning the initial start up the fuse and control besidethemobilian_2632.jpg
it allow power to the gas assembly, the flame detector/sensor allows power to get to the ignitor and it begins to glow. 1800 degrees is what that baby puts out and at that point the flame sensor bi-metal bends and shuts down the ignitor. The holding coil and secondary coil will then have enough power partially because the ignitor is off and partially because the ignitor is now acting as a thermocouple. If for some reason the gas did not ignite then the ignitor would cool down and shut off the gas. themobilian_2633.jpg
When the temp inside the drum gets to 160f that control beside the fuse shuts off the gas assembly, IF it don't shut down the gas then that fuse melts and shuts down the power to the gas assembly but it doe not shut down the dryer. The fuse is good though because you are getting power to the gas assembly AND the gas assembly is shutting down at 160f. The dryer keeps a tumbling around till the temp in the drum drops to 105f at that time the dryer wants another blast of hot air, trouble is the coils have gotten hot now, the ignitor is doing its thang, the flame sensor is doing its thang, the control is doing its thang. The only thing that ain't happening now is the coils ain't allowing gas to come out. Replace the coils and party on! More here
themobilian_2634.jpg

Jul 18, 2011 | Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer

3 Answers

Sunjoy L-PH018PSS Patio Heater Replacement Parts


What is likely happening is that the pilot flame cannot reach the thermocoupler. This is usually caused by corrosion or other blockage of the gas to the area where the pilot lights. Thus resulting in a small flame or no flame on the side the thermocoupler is located. Fix this by cleaning out the corrosion or other blockage in the pilot assembly. I have found that small spiders like to make their homes here which causes the blockage of the gas for the pilot. The pilot assembly has three parts to it. The ignitor electrode, the pilot light tower, and the thermocoupler. The ignitor electrode has a wire that goes from it to the push button ignitor. The pilot tower is located in the middle and has a gas line going to it from the gas valve (control knob). The thermocoupler stands next to and on the opposite side of the ignitor electrode. It also has a copper line from it to the gas valve.

Unfortunately, the Sunjoy you have, which is the same model of two I have to keep running, is difficult to service. Parts are not readily available either so be careful when you take it apart. They do not sell the individual smaller parts in this model and therefore make you buy complete assemblies.

To clean and service the pilot assembly, remove the screws holding the front plate on where your control knob is. Once that is removed you can see the back of the ignitor, it is black and has one wire coming from it leading up to the ignitor electrode. You will also be able to see the small gas line from the gas valve going up to the pilot tower and the small copper line from the gas valve to the thermocoupler. That assembly is what you need to get to, to clean.

You do that by removing the top canopy by removing the three screws holding it down. Once that is removed, remove the center nut on the heat exchanger (the part that heats up with all of the little holes). It is located on the top and in the center of the heat exhanger. Then remove the three screws that are located around the bottom of the heat exchanger that connects the collar to it. You should be able to remove the heat exchanger now. Tilt the whole heater down and prop the neck on something so you can work on it.

If you look in the top you will be able to see small metal box covering the pilot assembly. This is held onto the pilot assembly with two screws. Remove those screws and carefully remove the box. Now remove the two screws that holds the pilot assembly to the collar (located on the outside of the collar). The gas and copper lines will hold it up. If you look at the pilot assembly from the top you will see one screw holding the ignitor electrode to the pilot assembly bracket. Remove that screw, unplug the wire from the ignitor and remove the ignitor electrode from the assembly. Be careful not to break this and I am having you remove it so that you do not break it.

Now remove the nut that holds the thermocoupler onto the pilot assembly bracket and pull it out of the bracket. The copper line will hold it up and be careful not to kink the copper line. Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the outside surface of the thermocoupler. Corrosion on the thermocoupler could cause it to fail which will cause the pilot not to stay lit. I have not had one do that yet but it could happen.

Now, remove the gas line from the bottom of the pilot tower so that the tower and bracket are in your hands. Put it down and put the heater back up straight. Hook up your gas and turn the gas on. Now, press the control knob on the pilot setting to make sure you have gas coming out of the gas line that feeds the pilot. You should be able to hear, feel and smell it. If not you have a regulator problem or an empty tank. Turn off your gas, remove it from the heater and tilt the heater back down.

Take your pilot assembly, you will see a circular top to the pilot tower that is held down with really small metal ears. Carefully bend the ears back so that you can bend the top of the tower back. Only bend it back far enough to clean the inside of it with a bent wire and compressed air or something. If you look on the lower side of the bracket, above where the gas line is threaded on you will see a hole that goes all the way through the assembly. This hole regulates the pilot gas pressure and allows the gas to mix with the air before it burns. Make sure that hole is clear of debris and take wire or something and thread it through the hole up through the top side of the tower.

When you have it clean, reconnect the gas line, thermocoupler and ignitor electrode. Once reconnected and before screwing the assembly back to the collar, I set the heater back up right and reconnect the gas. I then light the pilot to make certain you have a good strong pilot light generously touching the thermocoupler. The pilot should stay lit haver holding the button in for a few seconds. Do not turn the heater on past the pilot area without the heat exchanger on or you might singe your hair. If the pilot works the way it is supposed to, turn it off, disconnect your gas, tilt the heater back down and reassemble it following the intructions in the opposite manner.

The ignitor problem:
It is probably corroded in the cap (which is also the switch) or inside the ignitor where the battery goes at the spring. Spray these areas out with WD40 which will clean the corrosion out and try it again with a new battery. If it does not go click click click when you press the button you may have to take the ignitor out. Unscrew the cap and then the little black plastic collar which secures the ignitor to the collar. This should allow you to remove the ignitor by turning and maneuvering it out of the collar past the gas valve. Put the battery back in and replace the cap. Press the button to see if it works. Be careful it may shock you causing you to squeal, cuss and likely drop the ignitor.

I just had one do this to me. For some reason the little black collar that secures the ignitor to the heater collar would not screw all the way in. This would not allow cap to fully screw on and therefore would not allow contact with the battery to the contact inside the ignitor near the spring. Tighten it up as best you can so that contact can be made when you press the button. I believe this is one part you can order from Sunjoy separately if you cannot get yours to work....Good Luck

Jan 09, 2010 | Uniflame 200209 Open Flame Patio Heater

1 Answer

It doesnt throw the flame to dry


The typical gas dryer set up: A thermostat is positioned on the blower housing to judge the drum temp. Next to it is a fuse.cd4488c.jpg If the temp exceeds 350F then that fuse melts and kills the heat but the dryer will still run. When that thermostat wants heat it sends 120 volts to the gas assembly. The gas assembly consists of 2 coils a sensor and an ignitor. The coils work on 120 vac but they are tenderfoots. If anything is running on the same circuit with them they don't cooperate. Enter the big bad ignitor and its cousin, the flame sensor. Both these partners in crime work together to coax them coils into opening. How? The sensor ALLOWS power to the ignitor. When the ignitor is glowing hot as 3 yards of C of C hell then the sensor's bi-metal shuts that glow thingy down. This gives them voltage starved coils a chance to get busy. The surge of power energizes them coils and they yank up the gas gates, the raw gas flows out onto that screaming hot glow thingy and BOOM! Houstion we have ignition!!
As the temp rises inside the drum the control thermostat decides enough is enough and kills power to that gas assembly. The drum continues to rock and roll till the temp cools off and then the control thermostat calls for more heat. So what can go wrong? The flame sensor can die and not put power tot hat ignitor. The ignitor can die too. or both can be ok and the coils work a tad and then get hot and quit.

Aug 21, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer doesnt blow hot air.


I find that quite often the ignitor is out of alignment or the glass window is covered with lint.
a gas dryer blows air through a burner assembly to heat the air. The burner assembly consists essentially of a gas valve, ignitor and a flame sensor. If any part of the burner assembly malfunctions, the result will be low or no heat and slow drying of the clothes.
There are two common styles of ignitors, glow ignitors and spark ignitors. The ignitor ignites the gas either by heating up and glowing, or by sparking. If the ignitor fails, the dryer will not heat.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working.

Aug 19, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

How do you light the pilot on a GE stove The top of the stove works


Hi, If this model has a standing pilot, use a lighter and put the flame to the back center next to the burner assembly. Most newer models have electric ignitors now. It is fastened to the burner assmbly on the laft side.
If this an electric ignitor, turn the oven on and see if the ignitor glows. These ignitors are a very common problem and will probavly need replaced.
Please let me know if I can assist youu further.

Vic

Jul 03, 2009 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

GE gas dryer, no heat, new ignitor


Hi!! make sure that you have 120 volts going to the glow ignitor.the gas valve will not turn on the gas if the ignitoe wont glow..if it glows the check yout coil boosters they are round and are located by the gas valve.then if not you have a bad timer.they are usually round and are black..good luck..

Jan 03, 2009 | Dryers

3 Answers

Jenn-Air Gas Cooktop Model CVGX2423


you will need to contact your certified local service tech.you might have a distributor problem at yor ignitor box.if the problem is not with your ignitors.

Jun 30, 2007 | Jenn-Air 34 in. Expressions CVGX2423 Gas...

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