Question about Bosch 800 Plus Series SHE9ER55UC 24 Dishwasher, Stainless Steel
My dishwasher will now consistently stop mid cycle with the floor light still ON. I think it is a problem with the latch sensor. When I push on the door handle, the cycle will resume. Sometimes it makes it to the end of the cycle, and other times it will stop again and I need to repeat the gentle nudge on the handle.
Rather than a problem with the latch sensor it just might be that something is preventing the door from fully closing properly. Check that there are no obstructions stuck on the door/frame seals and that the seals are in good order. Perished seals can prevent the door from closing evenly and this may cause the problems you are experiencing. Also check that the door itself is not warped or out of alignment, this will also cause such problems.
Posted on Dec 31, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First the source of the leak needs to be identified. pull the machine out from under the counter and remove the left side panel exposing the blue float assembly. Turn the machine on and observe the fill cycle. if water comes out anywhere on the fill mechanism then the inlet valve needs to be replaced. once the machine has filled and begun to cycle cancel the program and drain the unit. observe closly where the leak is happening. a leak during drain usually indicated a leaking drain hose.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
Pull the seal that is on the tank 1/2 way out then close the door. This will make sure the door is tight to the seal. This happens sometimes that the seal becomes flattened. I have been using this trick on Bosch dishwashers since this series came out in 1997.
Posted on Jan 06, 2008
SOURCE: Bosch SHY56A Dishwasher
if the door doesn't shut, the push buttons should not work. that way you are not running your d/w with the door open. check the door latch, as it seems to be malfunctioning. if the d/w still does not work, replace the door latch.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
look at the latch via the hole in the door where it closes to the tank? is the latch faced away from the tank? if so, then grab a paper clip and fold it so you can hook it around the latch then just pull outward towards the tank. you might need to hold that paper clip with some pliers. if it happens more than once then you will need to replace that door lock.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
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