Question about GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

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Ge front load wbvh6240 loose pulley & belt

Pulley & belt are loose. washer vibrates & basket moves quite a bit. very noisy

Posted by Anonymous on


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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any kind of load but works fine empty

Check This,I think this may helps You,

Recently, our front-loading GE WBVH6240 washing machine (essentially the same as the GE WBVH6260 and GE WHDVH626) stopped pumping out water, leaving the machine filled with soapy suds. Internet research showed that the solution was to pop off the front panel, open a drain, and then take apart the motor. Fixing it took much longer than it should have, because we could not find any photos or clear instructions as to where the screws and cleavage points were. Therefore, I'm posting some instructions with photos, with due credit for the basic process to
bpg40.jpg Oh, and by the way - ours came without any serial number or model number label on the side or, for that matter, on the back. Shame on Sears or GE - though we probably should have noted this when it was first delivered. We got the model number by looking it up in the manual, matching the drawing to the machine.
First, a word on the pump. This is a DP40-018 Hanning Elektro Werke design - you won’t find that on the Internet easily. However, a search led me to, which sells this assembly under the Hanning DP40 label. I suspect you can find a reseller eventually, for the pump itself; the rest of the assembly is unlikely to ever be damaged. The pump is made in China but we’re assured of Quality German Supervision (those of us who have relatives with Volkswagen and Mercedes cars are no longer convinced that German Supervision and Quality belong in the same sentence).
The working parts of the machine are accessible once you’ve removed the front panel. Underneath the front of the machine, if you bend down far enough, you can see three white-painted screws. Use a good, standard Philips screwdriver on these (#2 in our case). Get a good amount of pressure on the screws before turning because GE was foolish enough to get paint into the working part of the screw (that is, the cross-hatch), and you don't want to strip these. They are not that hard to get out, but again, you don’t want to strip them. Take out the three screws, pull off the panel, and you can see everything.
The pump is very close to you, on the right-hand side, right in front. First, get a big bucket - preferably several - and open up the drain valve (righty-tighty, left-loosey, so go LEFT, or counter-clockwise, to open it). Gallons of water will shoot out along with whatever rubbish is in the machine - pebbles from your young child, emory boards from your wife (or from you), marbles, coin batteries, lots of small change, etc. This in itself may solve your problem! but we might as well check the pump.
The pump screws are invisible unless you've taken off the hoses from the pump. There are two of these, and if you take them off before you drain the tub, you will have pretty well damaged the inside of your washer. Try to catch the water that comes out when you take off the hoses. My system is to use a locking pliers (vise-grips) to compress the two parts of the clip together - set the vise-grips so the two parts of the clip will just about touch each other. That will give you enough wiggle room to slide off the hose, gently, while holding the clip loose. Do not let the clip come back together over the hose. Gently open up the vise-grips once you're out of the washer and drop the clamp somewhere. Remember which clamp belongs to which hose (there are two hoses). Also remember which hose goes to which part of the pump. You should really be writing this down or something as you go. Photos of inside-the-washer are difficult to get.
Now, you should be able to see one of the screws. It's a bit of a job to get the screwdriver vertical over the screws, but you can do it. Do not try to hold the screwdriver at an angle; you really do not want to strip these screws and you don’t have to. They are not in very tight, and should come right out. One screw is pretty far to the left; the other is roughly in the middle of the pump; they are both on the far side of the pump and screw it down to the floor of the washer. Don’t try for the screws that hold the two parts of the pump together. The pump includes the drain-pipe! It’s all one assembly and it’s sold that way by Hanning. You can see it in the illustration at the top of this page. The pump is held in place by fairly firm supports that, when you look at it from the front of the washer, are behind the pump/pipe assembly.
To get the wires off, -- remembering which side each color wire is on! -- squeeze hard and pull carefully, working each terminal off, but without using so much force that you might break something or, when it releases, slam your hand into the sharp metal edge. Pull at the terminal, not at the wire - you don't want to break these, either, unless you like using solder guns in tight spots. Now you can gently push the pump/pipe assembly back, so that the white stubs on the drain-pipe clear the little rubber washer things, and when it’s free carefully lift it out of the washer.
Okay, now the pump is out. First, find the three visible screws that hold the motor to the pipe assembly (two of them are visible in the first photo, partly unscrewed), get a laundry marker, and mark the plastic where the screws go in so that when you re-assemble, you don’t have to figure out which holes they go into. Then separate the two parts of the pump - the motor and the rest of it - by undoing the three screws. We kept using our #2 Philips but a #1 might fit better; the screws came right out so it wasn’t an issue. And look what we found: a safety pin blocking the impeller (the moving part) from moving! No wonder the pump was warm. (If the pump is not warm, that indicates no current reaching it. However, on this washer, the pump does tend to get blocked more than anything else.)
hanning-pump.jpg A new pump will run you at least $170, probably more, from GE, so it’s well worth taking it apart and fixing it yourself, especially with service calls at $70 per hour.
I tried to get some of the lint out, with moderate success. This is a badly sealed pump and frankly I'm not impressed by the filter design, either. Someone got cheap in the engineering process and did not consider that owners do not want to take their pumps out every two years. Be careful with what you put into the machine!
When you re-assemble the pump, make sure you put the screws back into the holes that have threads.
Putting everything back was easy enough - be careful about pushing the white stubs into the black washer things (for the drain-pipe), and you may find the wires a little short, but it’s easier than getting it out. I had a photo of what the pump looked like before I took it apart, and now you do to, so you can easily put it back together the right way. The hardest part of getting everything back together was wiping up the water that spilled from the hose, and then getting the outer lid back on without someone to hold it in place.
Thank You

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

  • 242 Answers

SOURCE: Changing the belt on a GE front loading washer

Hello , i can try to help , I have always got these belts on by starting the belt on the small pulley/motor , then rolling it on the large pulley , kinda like putting a bike chain on. Let me know if you have any other questions and how it turns out.


Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: replace rubber gasket

Replace the machine with a top loader and you'll never have a leaking gasket again! Worked at National Linen for a while and the floors had drains in them and were always wet! Needless to say the pros have the same problem you do! ;)

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Front load washer (WBVH6240) has an odor

run a empty cycle with bleach on whites/ sanitize. clean boot (rubber gasket at door) with bleach or other cleaner inside especially at bottom, make sure 3 holes at bottom are clear.
this may take multiple cycles to rid of odor.
For maintenance, you should wipe excess water from boot after last load, and check lower drain holes. Once a month wipe boot with windex or other. and run cleaner cycle (empty) newer machines have a special clean washer cycle. (6240 doesnt).
Also clean your drain pump filter at bottom front behind access panel.
If boot is really bad , replace.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Door gasket leaking

My GE washer model wcvh6400j0ww was leaking too. The repair person thought the same thing the gasket. It turned out to be the water in-let pipe (WH41X10118 and you will need seal WH41X10119) and not the gasket. He ordered the gasket and took machine apart to replace and found cracked pipe. Take your machines front off and make sure it is the gasket leaking. Good Luck,

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

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