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Help with Thermostat Wire Connection

I have a Master Flow Attic Fan - Model # PR2H122. Have a question regarding the connections of the two black wires coming from the Thermostat unit box. I know that one get connected to the hot wire, (black), coming from the fan motor, which in turn get connected to the power source. Where does the second black wire coming from the thermostat go? Or do I just cap it off??
Thanks,

Steve

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White from power source to white of fan. Black from power source to black (top of thermostat). Black (bottom of thermostat) to black of fan..... 120v. connections.....gs

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • jpolox2
    jpolox2 Jun 09, 2012

    Removed thermostat a while ago and couldn't get the wiring right. With your clear and concise instructions it worked like a charm. BIG THANKS!!!

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For USA fans:

Look on the fan motor and see what the voltage rating is. If it's 110-120, then the other wire is a neutral no matter it's color. If the motor is 220-240, then the other wire is also a hot and will require a 220-240 volt thermostat.

Posted on May 21, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2002 4 ton Bryant air conditioner shuts off, fan still runs but not cooling is problem in the controls in the attic or in the AC unit or both?


With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor.

If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay.

If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit.
High pressure cut out not good,

Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit.

Hope this helps.

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Wiring a master flow PT6 thermostat to attic fan


I had a roofer install Master Flow PRO 3 and he did the initial wiring incorrectly. The black wire pairs were incorrectly connected and caused the fan to run 24-hours. I switched the black wires pairings and the fan shuts off if less than 100-degrees (the setting I chose) and comes on if more than 100-degrees. You may want to be sure that the black wire from the power source is connected to the black wire for the thermostat (black wire nearest the thermostat setting switch and closest to the power source wire). The black wire from the fan motor should be connected to the black wire closest to the fan motor's wire.

Aug 01, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

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AS I SAID BEFORE my problem is not ac connection its the 2 blue ,,2yellow and one red and one black..where to connection these color wires..coming out from the roof top unit. My unit is Dometic Penguin...


Unfortunately I have no access to any previous information you received from other experts, but I will tell you that without knowing which ceiling assembly/control box, thermostat etc., that you are using, the most I can do is tell you this.
Blue wire is for the compressor circuit.
Black wire is for high fan .
Yellow wire is not used, unless for heat pump circuit reversing valve.
Red wire is for low fan.
White is the common AC connection.
Green/yellow striped is for ground to chassis.

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I am trying to replace an old spring loaded attic fan timer. The old time simply had a black line in and a black line out. There was both a white and red line capped off in the box along with a bare...


The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

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OLD wall timer Model E1020 ticks really loud


You probably can't get the existing mechanical timer to operate any quietier, since it's old and likely starting to wear out. You can either swap the timer out for a new automatic digital timer, or install a standard single pole switch in its' place.

I believe the code you refer to regarding the fan having to be wired onto a timer switch was a local requirement from many years ago.

Some local jurisdictions have impossed more stringent requirements, but frankly, having an exhaust fan is normally a good idea. If the fan is vented into the attic space, it can cause some serious problems in cold weather with condesation of the warm, moist exhaust air.

Building Code requires that bath fans be piped/vented to the outside of the house and not into the attic space.

There are newer preset timer switches that will turn on the exhaust fan for a fixed amount of time, based on which button you push. These are great as they will run the fan long enough to remove condensation from showers, etc.

If you're going to replace the timer, disconnect or turn off the breaker or power to the switch. Then simply install a new timer or switch by connecting the black supply wire to the bottom of the single pole switch, or to one of the black leads of the timer. Then connect the black wire going to the fan to the top screw on the single pole switch, or the other lead on the new timer. The white (neutral) wires should already be connected with a wire nut inside the box. Connect the ground wire to the ground wire in the box and if the switch box is metal, attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw too.

You can now operate the fan with either a manual on/off switch or the new digital timer, whichever you chose to install.

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Sounds like it could be a bad capacitor (black box on side of motor).

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It sounds like you are replacing a two speed motor with a single speed. Check the side of the old motor and see if it has high and low speed wiring schematics. If so you need to replace with same model number. Good luck!

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What's the deal? Wont shut off or respond to thermostat. . .


Red= power........White=heat.............Green=fan.................(grey)-(yellow)=cool .....these are the connectons. Disconnect these wires from the thermostat and know that red/power is the only wire that send power to the thermostat, and the rest sends it back to the unit to call for whatever,, red--to . white for heat... red to green for fan .... &red to grey for cool! OK! Turn all your power on, and use a jumper wire from red / green for fan and see if the fan comes on! Then move the jumper wire from red to green , to red / to white for heat and the fan , wait for 3 minutes before removing and going to the next step. Then red /to grey for cool and check if the outside comes on. Either you have a wire touching past the insulations and making a connection, a bad thermostat ,oe excessive wire lead touching the next connection.Thank you very much!

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