Question about Fisher and Paykel Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Error code F32 for fisher
Got the same error here, called Fisher Paykel and the said it's an error related to the water line. They recommended running 3 L of water and see if code disappeared. If not, call service, they gave me a local company. Error code has disappeared, for now.
Posted on Nov 09, 2008
It means your filter is dirty. Remove metal plate at bottom & scrub with a toothbrush. Clean arms as well.
Clean all around the door & pull out the lift out filter, scrub clean with a toothbrush.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.
first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
SOURCE: I would like to receive
Thanks for using FixYa. Before you begin to replace your defrost thermostat, makesure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this isto unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriateswitch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fusefrom your home's fuse box.
Please check your refrigerator's defrost thermostat in this picture--
Click on the image to zoom in. It is located under the floor of the unit. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when thethermostat opens, the heater shuts off.
The cover plate over the coils needs to be removed. Now remove the freezer door, and then the screws so that each side of outer fridgecover is detached. This will to enable cover plate to slide out. (Outer walls have to be pried out alittle). Defrost thermostat is located behind coils.
Also check the Defrost Timer which is located at bottom offridge frame next to compressor. A couple of screws and unplug and plug in new part. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They areattached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors torelease the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliersto help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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