Question about GE BOARD ASM, MAIN CONTROL - WR55X11098

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BOARD ASM, MAIN CONTROL - WR55X11098

What does this control on a refrigerator? How would you know if it needs to be replaced?

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  • Bonita
    Bonita Dec 29, 2013

    I'm looking for symptoms that would warrant a possible problem related to this part. Thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: ice and water working intermittently, makes ice, Artica PSS 26NG

Go into the test mode and use 0 4 as the test code between the dispensor board and the main board .(communication test) Sounds like the main control board though .

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control

It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: GE profile bottom freezer unit

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold


heatman101

Posted on Nov 21, 2010

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE refrigerator (model # GSH25SGRESS).

Change the control. GE has a number of problems with the original boards.

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

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WHIRLPOOL SID BY SIDE FRIDGE MODEL GD5RHAXNT00 LIGHT HAS GONE OUT IN REFRIGERATOR AND TEMP GUAGE IS NOT SHOWING A READING


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My ge profile refrigerator temperature digital printout reads 999,888,777, etc. Is this a main control panel problem, thermostat or digital control itself?


This is just a bad display control board. You need to replace the actual display control board in order to correct the issue unfortunately. I'm not sure what shorted out both your main control and your display control board, but you will need to replace your display control now. hope this helps :)

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2 Answers

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sounds like it might be the defrost timer.

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Was the unit completly defrosted? Did the tech check to see if the compressor came on? Also, when the board is replaced, depending on the unit, there are wire to be cut so the board will work with that particular model. Check to see if the compressor is running first. then make sure the unit was defrosted. the other problem could be one of the thermistors deffrctive that control the defrost..

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Need to check voltage coming from control. If no voltage you need to replace main board on the rear of ref.

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