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Kenmore mod 970-506021 stove. i replaced the bake element and it goes to temp set keeps heating until F10 code comes on and i have to turn off

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jbjaxiis
  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: bottom /bake element will not come on

Check the connections to the element. If power is going to the element, and it is not working, the element needs to be replaced

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my ge spectra stove bake element is not heating

I have a GE Spectra stove. The top element over heated and broke in half.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore stove model# 665.92024100 While cooking

Check and see if the broil element has shorted to ground.

Bonus

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore model 790.9621 electric stove error code

it is the bake relay sticking--on the eletronic oven control board.i tried to buy the relays but,no luck.must buy the eoc board-great engineering

Posted on Aug 09, 2010

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1 Answer

What does code f10 mean?


get a small oven thermometer and put it inside the over to check what temp it goes off at .many times it is a bad thermocouple .

Sep 25, 2015 | Kenmore Ovens

2 Answers

How do get rid of F10 which is on the window of my Kenmore stove


The F10 error means that the high temperature sensor is reporting a runaway temperature and shut down to avoid a potential fire. Try unplugging the stove or tripping the circuit breaker to reset the code.

If the error recurs, unplug the stove (or turn off the circuit breaker) again. Look at the broiler and bake elements with a flashlight. If it has any damage (breaks, char, melting), you will need to replace the element. Check where the elements connect to the oven and replace them if there is any charring on the back wall.

If the elements are undamaged, you need to check the wiring to identify if the problem is at the elements, the high temperature sensor, wiring or the control board. You will need to access the wiring from the back of the stove. Disconnect the wires to the heating elements. Then disconnect the wiring connections at the high temperature sensor and the control board. Without a model number, I can't be completely sure of the resistance that should be seen at various points. Please post a comment with the model number of the stove and I'll try to confirm the expected and faulty resistance values. Most likely, the resistance should be under 50 ohms but above zero between the left and right contacts of the elements and the violet wires in the wiring harness at the control board. The high temperature sensor should probably have a resistance between 1,000 and 1,200 ohms. If the resistance is high, you'll need to replace the appropriate parts. (Note: if the wiring at the control board gives a reading similar to the resistance of the high temperature sensor, the control board is the likely suspect.)

I hope this helps. If your stove is under warranty, contact Sears/Kenmore to fix the issue. If you aren't comfortable testing the wiring, contact Kenmore for a service call.

Cindy Wells

Feb 04, 2015 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore electric oven will not bake


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Kenmore stove model# 665.92024100 While cooking


Check and see if the broil element has shorted to ground.

Bonus

Apr 13, 2010 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore model 790.9621 electric stove error code F10. The oven heats up on bake (set at 400 degrees) then goes into f10 mode; and seems to be heating up more. Answer for problem??


it is the bake relay sticking--on the eletronic oven control board.i tried to buy the relays but,no luck.must buy the eoc board-great engineering

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1 Answer

GE True Temp oven won't turn off.


The sensor is a part number WB23T10002 and goes for about $60. The paper inside the control area of the oven will state the normal resistance values of it. (probably about 1080 ohms at room temp, about 2650 at clean temp.) If you cut a lead to it, you would just get a F3 code, and if you cut the other and wire them together, just get a F4 code, so that wouldn't help diagnose the problem, but if you could use an ohm meter on the probe it would. BUT the oven should not come on without it being set to bake, SO I conclude that the ERC is indeed the problem (with the welded electrical contacts), which is a part number WB50T10043 which might go for about $125 or so. If you are careful when you replace it, you can probably peal the faceplate (part # WB27T10125) off and reuse it, so you should just need the ERC.

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