Question about Hotpoint Aquarius WF000 Front Load Washer

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I GOT METAL RULER STUCK IN MY M/C . WHICH I HAVE NOW GOT OUT BUT ITS LEFT A HOLE IN THE PLASTIC CASING AROUND THE DRUM , WHERE THE DRAIN PIPE GOES , IS THIS WORTH FIXING OR NOT ?

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The outer tub runs around $400 to buy it plus your time to fix it. it is a major job to replace

Posted on May 18, 2009

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Can I safely use my washer if I hear something metal scraping during spin cycle?


You can, but I wouldn't. The outer skin of the drum is made of plastic. If it is a coin, it could dislodge, get caught again in mid spin and punch a hole straight through the plastic.

Get a flashlight and look between the seal and the outer drum when you open the door.

Jan 24, 2016 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

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Miele WT945 Dryer Problems - Stage 3/4 fix


STAGE 3: THE ‘PROPER’ FIX (4 hours)

Unfortunately, if you want to go further the next stage of disassembly is horribly inaccessible. The Miele man rated it as probably the most difficult job on the machine, but said it was feasible and that he would personally undertake it if it was his machine rather than move to Stage 4. The challenge is to get the fan box itself off, which extends deep down into the rear of the machine where it eventually plugs into the back of the drum. And the back panel of the machine does not come off or swing out like the front does – the back and the sides are one piece of sheet metal. So you’re stuck with manipulating the thing at arm’s length in a very narrow gap, and to add to the fun there are some very sharp edges down there.

I've now personally done this job - it's a two-person task, took us around 4 hours but is feasible.

So (omitting some of the obvious smaller tasks like disconnecting wires and cable ties as needed), in addition to Stage 2 disassembly:

- undo a further Torx bolt holding the fan box to the drum, just to the left of the outlet hole you worked on in Stage 2, and loosen another bolt near the motor which holds a slot in the fan box casing to the drum

- remove the fan motor (held by two bolts, one low and invisible on its mounting bracket)

- remove the fan box's air inlet from the hole in the back of the drum that it slots into. This is right at the bottom of the fan box and thus very inaccessible. Eventually I found a long piece of sturdy wood (around 4 x 1cm section) could be poked down to this point (between the rear of the drum and the front of the fan box) and then gently pulled forward to lever out the air inlet.

- using Corbin-type pliers on the clips, remove the four hoses that connect to the fan box (best to do this once the air inlet is free from the previous step, as you can then lift the fan box up a little with the hoses still connected, which makes access to the clips a lot easier.

- remove the fan box from the machine, and unscrew the Torx screws holding the white plastic cover (which includes the condensor unit) to the metal casing. Go very carefully here - corrosion can cause stiff and maybe sheared screws. Best to soak the screws with WD40 beforehand where they thread into the metal casing.

- remove the fan rotor by undoing the nyloc nut on the shaft. It (the rotor) is a tight fit on the shaft and may need some gentle encouragement with a hammer. Pause again to be amazed at the amount of fluff. Clean everything out fully (fan rotor, metal fan housing, white plastic cover/condensor unit, black rubber strip which seals the two halves of the fanbox together, hole at the rear of the drum which the air inlet plugs into.

- replace the plastic cover using some fresh silicone sealant around the edge, on top of the black rubber strip, to make it watertight.

- reassemble everything in reverse order. When it comes to reinserting the air inlet to the back of the drum, wet the inlet and the rubber gasket with copious soapy water. Even so the fit is very stiff indeed - just pushing with a thumb from the rear will not work. Solution: remove the white plastic cap from the inspection hole on the rear panel. Find a sturdy short cylindrical object (a large spark plug socket from a socket set is ideal) which will fit through this hole and press on the bottom of the fan box acting as a drift. Then rig up a lever (perhaps a horizontal wooden batten levering against a door frame) which will allow you to exert controlled pressure (a lot of it!) on the drift. Pack another wooden batten down the front of the drum to lock it in place, otherwise you will be wasting effort pushing the drum forward against its springs. You should feel the inlet push back into place. Look down from the top with a torch - if you can still see the sharp flange around the inlet tube, it's not pressed home enough.


STAGE 4: THE OFFICIAL MIELE FIX – FOR INFORMATION.

Miele technicians will only replace the fan box, not open, clean and refit it as described above. So the ‘official’ fix is to pay the callout charge, plus the infamous £400 for a new fan box,

on Feb 21, 2010 | Miele WT945 Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

How do I change the bobbin in a Janome sewing machine?


There is a small plastic plate where the needle goes down through the foot, remove this cover and you will see the bobbin. Remove the bobbin and refill or selecting another bobbin turn it so that when you pull the thread the bobbin turns anti-clock-wise, slip the bobbin into the black plastic casing, pulling the thread towards the small red arrow at the bottom of the casing, slip the thread between break in the silver metal sleeve pulling it to your left between the 2 pieces of metal this is where the tension on the thread is. You have now changed your bobbin. With the plastic plate still off, hold the top thread with your left hand and with your right slowly turn the wheel, this will send the needle (holding your top thread) down into the bobbin casing and will pick up the bottom thread, pull on the top thread and bring the bottom thread up through the hole in the plate. Replace the plastic plate and recommence sewing. Good luck
Sue

Sep 24, 2014 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Noise inside the drum


Is there any play in the basket? The gap between the basket and the plastic tub should stay the same. If you are able to put pressure on the upper part of the metal basket and it moves within the tub, the rear support of the basket is damaged or tub bearing is bad. Both are terminal problems. Sorry.

Apr 12, 2014 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Blanco Supreme 533-U sink drain leaking at seal


The sink basket/strainer that fits into the large hole of the sink should have either a bead of silicone sealant applied to the sealing lip of the assembly or a ring of plumbers putty. Silicone will work very well if the mating flanges are clean and dry.

With the baket in place, the rubber seal goes between the large nut and the sink. A bead of silicon on this is optional on the sink side of that rubber seal. and the nut tightened down snug , forcing some of the silicone out fro beneath the mating flange and rubber seal. Tight enough so the basket is not free to move. Be it plastic or brass/metal, that order is the same, only a plastic nut is not tightened as tightly as a metal nut would be.

On the bottom of the drain basket assembly there is a nut, to retain a plastic or brass tail piece. The plastic tail piece will have a polyetheylene "flanged washer" for a seal to the bottom of the sink basket. If it is a brass tailpiece, a rubber seal and metal nut is used with "pipe dope"/thread sealing compound used on the threads of the metal nut. With the plastic nut, you can apply a few wraps of teflon tape to the threads of the drain basket, but is not required in most cases as the poly flanged washer will form the seal. The plastic nuts should not be tightened any more than hand tight.

beneath that, the rest of the drain assembly attaches. If plastic- no more than hand tight. if metal, only about 1/4 turn past hand tight. Metal nuts and parts should use rubber gaskets/seals and the plastic parts should only use the poly tapered/lip seals.

Jan 15, 2012 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Its constantly in the drain cycle


Very seldom is the motor faulty on those units. My diagnocis is a blocked pressure switch pipe. What happens, after a period of time soap starts to build up in the machine. A direct hole outlet is the pressure switch outlet. Basically, you need to locate the clear thin(1/4 inch ) plastic pipe attached to the drum. once off, place another one similar onto that point and blow hard into the the second pipe. You should feel resistence initially the it will be free. Once happy all is clear, reinstall original pipe and test.(Make sure plug is pull when working on and around the drum Please let me know thanks. terfou@imaginet.co.za.

Aug 23, 2010 | Admiral AAV7000A

2 Answers

My whirlpool duet leaves standing water or it will flood the floor.


the drain pump motor went bad on mine. ( i think the motor worked fine, the impeller which is plastic was stripped where the motor shaft goes into the impeller) i bought a new pump for about a hundred dollars and installed myself. if you are the least bit handy, you can too. it's a bolt-on fix.however, like moyerboy says, make sure that there are no blockages from the bottom of the drum to the drain pipe. i once found a sock stuck in the pipe.

Jan 19, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I believe that I have a wood screw which has got stuck between the drum and the tub. I have removed the belt drive from the back and tried to ease the drum by knocking the shaft thro the bearing but it is...


If the screw is small enough to move around between the drum and the outer casing then the best way is to physically lift the complete machine and tilt it towards the drain hole in the tub, this will get the screw down into the pump area or hoses where you can remove the hose clips and hopefully the screw. To find out where the drain hole is remove the back cover and follow the pipe work onto the drum casing. If the screw is jammed then you will have to remove the drum from the casing completely. Good luck, let me know how you get on

Aug 24, 2009 | Zanussi F1045W Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Hotpoint ultima wma75


sounds like the filter is blocked you can take the filter out and clean it and check the hole for lint a sock or a coin etc. if this helps please rate me joe

Aug 06, 2008 | Hotpoint First Edition WMA12 Front Load...

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