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Side bar assembly won't lock back into place - Baby Trend Deluxe Playard Nursery Center Metropolitan

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My dyson dc25 won't lock in the upright position


The DC25 Animal has a design flaw where part of the Duct Assembly (main part of the vacuum) where the Red lock bar goes over breaks off the Duct Assembly and it causes the DC25 to not be able to stand up normally. There is a short Youtube video describing this flaw.

Unfortunately, you can repair this except by replacing the entire duct assembly.

Dec 21, 2012 | Dyson DC25 All Floors Bagless Upright...

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Layman?s Instructions to replace the transfer belt for a Samsung CLX-6200FX...


Intro: This is a fairly difficult task, so really make sure you want to do this first. Factor in the cost of the transfer belt(maybe $25 dollars off of Ebay??) and it's not such a good deal. Anyway, for the DIYer diehards, keep reading.Necessary equipment:1. Number 2 philips screwdriver and a really small flathead screwdriver2. Disposable gloves3. 12 inch strip of cardboard or plastic4. Vacuum cleaner5. Spring hook removal tool (can made a simple one with a pair of pliers and a paper clip)
Disassembly: 1. Place the transfer belt assembly down on a table, so that the paper belt drive is on your right side. Remove the paper drive belt assembly by removing the three bright screws that hold it in place.
2. Turn the whole thing over and remove the rubber roller at the bottom. This is done by first carefully remove the spring that hold one of the plastic end in place. Choose the end that has the metal grounding tab on it. Be really careful to not damage the plastic tabs that hold the spring ends. The grounding tab must be pulled up slightly in order to go over a plastic nub before you can slide the plastic end off. Don't pull the metal too hard, or it will be permanently deformed. Place these parts to one side. The metal ends of the rubber roller have a little bit of grease on it, so just leave it there.
3. Flip the transfer belt assembly back over and on the right side, there is a protruding piece of plastic that has an electrical connector attached to the end of it. It's held in place by two black screws. Remove those two screws and the assembly will now hang there by the wires.
4. Remove the top plastic piece (covers the green release lever). There are four black screws that hold this in, two screws on each side. The part will dangle because it is connected by the same wires that connect to the piece in step 3.
5. With the removal of the part in step 4, the green release lever assembly is completely exposed. There are two springs (one on each side) that pull the plastic ends of the release assembly to its normal position. These springs need to be carefully removed. The spring hook removal tool is handy here. Finally, there is a holding tab on each of these end pieces, which needs to be carefully pulled up about 2 mm or so and then the end will slide off the metal bar. Don't lift up on the tabs too much or they will break off.
6. There are 4 bright screws that hold the excess toner tank. (This is the big piece of plastic with ribs, that the paper belt drive assembly was attached to. This tank will now come off, since the part in step 4 has been removed. The tank will be full of excess toner, so have the vacuum cleaner handle to clean up the mess. Shake the toner out into a garbage can.
7.
Underneath the excess toner tank is a scraper/cleaner bar. Two bright screws hold the bar in place. Take care to not deform the metal grounding tab that grounds the bar during operation.
8.
Take the left side plastic panel off now. There are 4 black screws that hold it in place. It should come free. If something is holding it in place, then you probably skipped step 5 and didn't remove the green release level assembly yet.
9.
There is a round rod which will come loose as soon as the left side panel is removed. This round bar works with the scraper to clean the excess toner from the transfer belt. Note that one end of the round bar has been machined to have a smaller diameter. That end goes toward the left side plastic panel. Put the round rod aside for now.
10. There are two round rollers on the top and bottom of the transfer belt assembly that are used to stretch the belt. The bigger round roller is spring loaded to provide the tension needed to keep the belt flat during operation. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the compression spring (hidden under the left side plastic panel earlier) so as to release the tension from the belt.
11. Put your gloves on now, because in the following steps, foam rollers will be exposed and it's best not to get body oils on them.
12. There is still tension on the belt because there's a compression spring on the other end of the big round roller, but that's okay. Now, press on the plastic end piece that holds onto the roller to completely release all tension on the belt. The belt will now slide off. It won't come off easily since it's a tight fit. Just work at it and it will come out. Note, one side of the belt has a rubber track inside of it. That's the orientation that the new belt must go back in on.
13.
With the old belt removed, the inside of the transfer belt assembly is now completely exposed. Vacuum the excess toner dust.
Reassembly:
14.
Note where the round bar that pressed against the scraper should be. There are pieces of plastic protruding here which will damage the new transfer belt as it is being put into place. Cover these protruding points with a strip of cardboard, 12 inches long and about 1-2inches in width.
15. Now, holding everything in your lap and with the right side down, press on the end piece of the big roller as before, so that it is possible to slide the new belt down into place. Take your time, and it will finally get into place. Try your best to not fold the transfer belt material in any way. You will know the belt is in place when the rubber inside track goes into the groove of the black plastic roller at the near end of the big roller.
16. Put the compression spring that pushed the end of the big roller back into place.
17.
Slide the round bar approximately now where it should go. Remove the protective strip and position and push the bar end into the brass bushing. Remember, the machined end of this round bar should be aligned so that it clears the inner rubber track of the belt. I put a drop of light machine oil on the brass bushing, but I don't know if was really necessary.
18. Carefully put the left side panel back into place, noting that the smaller roller end and the round bar have to aligned properly before the panel will slide into place. Again, I put one drop of light machine oil on each brass bushing just before putting it all together. Four black screws are used to hold the panel in place.
19.
Put the scraper bar back into place using two of the bright screws. Note, the metal tab on one end should be pressing against the bar, making electrical contact when it is in properly.
20. Put the excess toner tank back into place, using4 black screws.
21. Return the green release lever assembly pieces back into place, basically performing the earlier steps in reverse. First position the lever bar in place, then slide the ends back on. The retaining tabs should click and the ends will be locked into place again. Putting the springs back into place is easiest with the help of the hook removal tool.
22.
Thread the top plastic piece back over the green lever. You may need to press on the green lever just a bit to get the piece back in and again to align the screw holes. 4 black screws to hold this top plastic piece.
23. Put the electrical connector piece back into place. Note that it hooks over the side panel piece. Route the wires into the proper place, so as to not smash them as the two black screws are used to reattach this piece.
24. Put the rubber roller back into place. Steps are the exact reverse of what it took to take it off.
25. Finally, fasten the paper belt drive assembly back down with the 3 bright screws. Note,this piece hooks into the top plastic piece before it is screwed down. Use a small flathead screwdriver, as needed,to make sure the grounding tabs are not messed up as the assembly is put back into place.

on Feb 24, 2011 | Samsung CLX-6200FX Printer

1 Answer

The back driver's side door buzzes when I lock and unlock it


The actuator is held in place by 3(?) or 4(?) screws on the latch side of the door. Make sure window is all the way UP! First, remove the door upholstery and the splash liner. Next, disconnect the two metal linkages running from the lock/latch assembly. You may now remove the screws holding the actuator in place. Remove electrical plugs. Transfer the linkages, plug in the electrical connector, slide the assembly back into the door, replace the screws, etc. After an hour or 2 you should have a repaired lock assembly and no more buzzing. Expect to pay around $65 including shipping for the new actuator. Good luck...

Oct 17, 2012 | 2005 Kia Sorento

2 Answers

Why won't my Jack La lanne's come on and it's new never been on


If there is not a flaw in the product itself it could be a problem with assembly or that the locking bar is not locked in place properly. The juicer will not operate if the locking bar does not click in to place in to the grooves on both sides of the lid.

Jack LaLanne has several HowTo videos posted that would be worth reviewing:

http://www.powerjuicer.com/power-juicer-how-to-videos.php

You are also able to download a manual which includes illustrated assembly and disassembly instructions:

http://www.powerjuicer.com/power-juicer-manuals.php

If you are unable to lock the locking bar in place it suggests that some other component has not been installed in the correct position. Review the assembly instructions to make sure all pieces are properly positioned.

Thank you for using FixYa!

Oct 15, 2011 | Jack Lalanne Power Juicer 250 Watts

1 Answer

I need to change the headlights


REMOVAL PROCEDURE
  1. Open the hood.
  2. Remove the push-pin retainers that secure the top of the upper fascia and grille assembly to the upper tie bar to allow the upper fascia and grille assembly to flex forward.
  3. Remove the bolt and the push-pin retainer that secures the top of the headlamp assembly to the upper tie bar.

  1. Gently pull the upper fascia and grille assembly forward only far enough to remove the bolt located at the bottom inboard side of the headlamp assembly.
  2. Pull the headlamp assembly straight out to disengage the snap-in retainer at the lower outboard back surface of the assembly. Turn the assembly so that the front inboard corner clears the front fascia.
  3. Pull the headlamp assembly out and away from the vehicle
  4. Disconnect the headlamp electrical connector.
  5. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle.
  6. Remove the headlamp bulb cover from the headlamp assembly.
  7. Remove the headlamp bulb socket from the headlamp assembly.
CAUTION: Refer to Halogen Bulb Caution in Service Precautions.


  1. Remove the headlamp bulb.
  2. Remove the side marker bulb socket from the outer side of the headlamp assembly.
  3. Remove the side marker bulb.
  4. Remove the parking lamp bulb socket from the inner edge of the headlamp assembly.
  5. Remove the parking lamp bulb.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

CAUTION: Refer to Halogen Bulb Caution in Service Precautions.


  1. Install the headlamp bulb to the socket.
  2. Install the headlamp bulb socket to the headlamp assembly.
  3. Install the headlamp bulb cover to the headlamp assembly.
  4. Install the side marker bulb to the socket.
  5. Install the side marker bulb socket to the headlamp assembly.
  6. Install the parking lamp bulb to the socket.
  7. Install the parking lamp socket to the headlamp assembly.
  8. Connect the headlamp electrical connector.
  9. Install the headlamp assembly to the vehicle by placing it back into position so that the bolt holes align and the snap-in retainer located at the outboard back surface of the headlamp assembly engages.
  10. Gently pull the upper fascia and grille assembly forward only far enough to install the bolt located at the bottom inboard side of the headlamp assembly.
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
  1. Install the bolt and push-pin retainer that secures the top of the headlamp assembly to the upper tie bar.
Tighten the bolts to 6 N.m (53 lb in).


  1. Install the push-pin retainers that secure the top of the upper fascia and grille assembly to the upper tie bar to allow the upper fascia and grille assembly.
  2. Close the hood.
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Oct 21, 2010 | 2006 Cadillac SRX

1 Answer

How do I reattach chain after it slipped off


Normal 0 This will be the basic instruction for most common saws. Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle if the saw is equipped with a chain brake on the handle. Loosen the bar nuts on the clutch cover. Loosen tension screw or other adjuster (thumbscrew) to allow the bar to be moved toward the engine. Some saws have this tension adjustment built into the bar. This will provide enough slack in the chain to able to reinstall it. It may be necessary to remove the side cover to gain access to the clutch/gear assembly on the side of the engine if the chain also jumped the gear here. Remove the cover, inspect for any debris or other obstructions in this area. If none, replace the chain back over the drive gear and in the bar groove all the way around the bar. It may be necessary to turn the bar adjuster screw more to provide enough slack in the chain to do this. Once the chain is in place reinstall the cover and bar lock nuts. Snug up the nuts but do not tighten these. Turn the bar/chain adjuster screw to tighten the chain on the bar (take up slack). I usually tighten to a point where there is no slack between the chain and the bottom of the bar and I can still turn the chain easily around the bar by hand. With experience you will get the feel for this chain tension. Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar lock bolts/ nuts on the side cover. I hope this helps you out.

Jun 25, 2010 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

2 Answers

We tried to rekey our kwikset smart key, but couldn't and now the original key doesn't work


I had mine do the same thing right before I was leaving to the airport [re-keying for the house-sitter]. I was setting the lock and I hear a spring-type ping and the keying was lost.

The tumbler can be reset to your key. However, it involves disassembling the device and has small parts.If you are feeling lucky, you can do this yourself or take it to a qualified person.

If you are feeling lucky:
A: Disassemble the lock from the door

B: Remove the door handle from around the key side.

C: Remove the U retaining-clip from the outside of the lock that is securing it to the shaft.

D: Remove the lock from the shaft

E: Remove the U retaining-clip from the tumbler body and the case
F: You will have to press the five fingers down evenly on the length of the case to slide the cylinder out of the case. (I cut a plastic card with small wire cutters to make a tool, but you could probably use thick card-stock and some scissors.)

Be careful; you will have to watch for and secure the check ball on one side of the tumbler and the finger lock bar on the other side as you slide this out.

G: Remove and store the check ball securely as well as the finger lock bar. (careful with the plate surrounding the fingers that the finger lock bar resides in)

H: Remove the finger locking plate. Carefully, make sure the fingers are still inside and oriented correctly and the spring at the back of the finger locking plate is left in place.

I: You will notice a u channel groove in the fingers and the finger locking plate. Align the fingers in the finger locking plate evenly so that the grooves in the fingers match the groove in the finger locking plate.

J: Replace the finger locking plate with fingers aligned evenly with the u channel groove back onto the tumbler body and hold back against the spring left on the rear of the tumbler body. This puts the tumbler into re-key position.

K: Replace the finger locking bar onto the finger locking plate while holding the assembly against the spring and tumbler body. (If this is done correctly, the finger locking bar will now be flush with the side of the finger locking plate and not raised as normal.)

L: While holding the tumbler assembly together and maintaining the locking plate pressed against the spring, Insert your new key into the tumbler body.


M: While holding this assembly in this position, add the check ball to the tumbler assembly.

N: While holding the assembly in position, slightly depress the black plastic block at the back of the finger locking plate and slide this tumbler assembly back into the tumbler case taking care to rotate the case 90 degrees clockwise from normal. (Note the U channel groove inside the tumbler case that normally receives the finger lock bar and use that for orientation.)

If the tumbler does not insert cleanly, verify the finger locking bar is flush. If it is not, redo while maintaining proper pressure to keep the finger locking plate firmly against the spring in re-assembly. Also, verify the fingers are not protruding from the tumbler body. If they are, redo the procedure taking care to align the fingers properly on assembly and maintain proper force on the finger locking plate against the tumbler body during re-assembly and new key insertion


O: Rotate the key and tumbler body in the case to the normal position (counter-clockwise 90 degrees).

P: While holding the tumbler body firmly against the case, remove the key.

Q: Re-insert the key and verify smooth rotation.

R: Align the tumbler body and case back to the normal position and while holding the tumbler body firmly against the case, remove the key.

S: Replace the U retaining-clip that belongs on the back of the tumbler body to secure it within the case.

T: Replace the tumbler body in the main lock shaft and secure with the shaft U retaining clip.

Mar 24, 2010 | Kwikset Professional Door Lock...

2 Answers

Door lock assembly fell inside door


The same thing happened to my 2006 Aveo. Once you do the above find the lock and the screw that holds it in (they will both be in the bottom of the door). Put the lock back in place, put blue Loctite on the screw and screw it back in place and this problem will not repeat itself.

Aug 11, 2009 | 2005 Chevrolet Aveo

1 Answer

I need to know how to get to the rear suspension (tower)


i don't think you have to do any repairs from the top end. I will list most fromFord shop manual. Please rate as Fixya if this answers your questions. Please report back. Good luck.

Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear 1994 Town Car, Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis. Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Spring Rear
Removal
  1. Position a hoist under the rear axle housing, and raise the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 . Place jackstands under frame side rails.
  1. Remove rear stabilizer bar as outlined.
  1. Disconnect the lower studs of the two shock absorbers from the mounting brackets on the rear axle assembly .
  1. Unsnap the RH parking brake rear cable and conduit (2A635) from RH upper arm retainer before lowering the rear axle assembly .
  1. Lower the hoist and axle housing until the rear springs are released.
  1. Remove rear spring and rear spring center mounting insulators (5741) from vehicle.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------
Shock Absorber Removal
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 1. To assist in removing the upper attachment on shock absorbers using a plastic dust tube, place an open end wrench on the hex stamped into the dust tube's metal cap. For shock absorbers with a steel dust tube, simply grasp the tube to prevent stud rotation when loosening the retaining nut.
  1. Remove the shock absorber retaining nut, washer, and insulator assembly from the stud on the upper side of the frame. Discard nut. Compress the shock absorber to clear the hole in the frame, and remove the inner insulator and washer from the upper retaining stud.
  2. Remove the self-locking retaining nut, and disconnect the shock absorber lower stud from the mounting bracket on the rear axle tube.
  3. Perform Shock Absorber Checks. Refer to Section 04-00 to determine shock absorbers performance.
Installation
  1. Properly prime the new shock absorber . Refer to Section 04-00 , Shock Absorber Checks.
  1. Place the inner washer and rear spring insulator (5536) on the upper retaining stud, and position the shock absorber so that the upper retaining stud enters the hole in the frame. While holding the shock absorber in this position, install a new rear spring insulator , washer and nut assembly on the upper side of the upper frame. Be sure to seat the rear spring insulator in the frame attaching hole. Tighten nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
  1. Extend the shock absorber , and place the lower stud in the mounting bracket hole on the rear axle assembly housing. Install a new self-locking retaining nut. Tighten nut to 76.5-103.5 Nm (56-76 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arm Lower
Removal
Refer to the illustration in Description and Operation. NOTE: To improve rear axle assembly noise and vibration concerns, the rear suspension should be fastened to the frame and rear axle assembly at the curb height position.
NOTE: If one rear suspension lower arm requires replacement, also replace the opposite rear suspension lower arm .
sra~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: TURN REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH OFF (IF SO EQUIPPED).
NOTE: If both rear suspension arm and bushings and both rear suspension lower arms are to be removed at the same time, remove both rear springs as outlined under Rear Spring Removal. For air spring removal, refer to Section 04-05 .
  1. Mark rear suspension shock absorber relative to protective sleeve with the vehicle in a static, level ground condition.
  1. Remove rear stabilizer bar as outlined.
  1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist, and place jackstands under the rear axle assembly . Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Lower the hoist until the shock absorbers are fully extended to relieve rear spring pressure.
  1. Support rear axle assembly under differential pinion nose as well as under rear axle assembly .
  1. Remove and discard the lower arm pivot bolt and nut from the axle bracket. Then, disengage the rear suspension lower arm from the bracket.
  1. Remove and discard the pivot bolt and nut from the frame bracket, and remove the rear suspension lower arm .
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Upper
Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A1, A2 and A5 Rear Axle Control Arm Bushing Tools T86P-5638-AH
sra~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: TURN OFF REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH (IF SO EQUIPPED).
  1. Raise the vehicle, and support the frame side rails with jackstands. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  2. Support the rear axle assembly .
  3. Lower the rear axle assembly , and support the rear axle assembly under differential pinion nose as well as under rear axle assembly .
  4. Unsnap parking brake rear cable and conduit from upper arm retainer.
  5. Remove and discard the nut and bolt retaining the rear suspension arm and bushing to the rear axle assembly housing. Disconnect the rear suspension arm and bushing from the housing.
  6. Remove and discard the nut and bolt that secures the rear suspension arm and bushing to the frame bracket, and remove the rear suspension arm and bushing . If upper arm rear bushing is to be replaced, use Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A and Rear Axle Control Arm Bushing Tools T86P-5638-AH and the following procedure:
  7. Place the upper arm rear bushing remover tool in position, and pull bushing out. Using Suspension Bushing Service Set T79P-5638-A install bushing assembly into bushing ear of rear axle assembly.
------------------------------------------------
Stabilizer Bar
sra~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: TURN OFF REAR SUSPENSION LEVELER COMPRESSOR SWITCH (IF SO EQUIPPED).
Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist, and place jackstands under the frame side rails. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Lower the hoist and rear axle assembly housing until the shock absorbers are fully extended.
  1. Disconnect rear stabilizer bars from rear stabilizer bar link and bushing (5C488) . Remove bolts and stabilizer bar bracket (5486) retaining rear stabilizer bar to rear axle assembly .

Mar 05, 2009 | 1994 Lincoln Town Car

3 Answers

Shield reattachment


Well, I don't have a solution to getting it back on, but if you could tell me how to get the stupid thing off, I could maybe figure out how to get it back on for you. :) I can't find anything about it via Cosco either. grrrrr!

Aug 08, 2006 | Cosco Alpha Omega 22-180 - with Shield

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