Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
Oven bake element will not heat up
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Electric Range
It is very common for elements to "catch fire" when they fail. It is really electical arching. But to answer your question you shouldnt be concerned if it ever happens to the bottom element immediatly kill the breaker it will stop instantly. dont use a fire extinguisher as it wont stop the arching. And most ovens do use the upper broil element for baking for very short intervals like 10secs on every minute or so to brown the top of product. Some models (especially older builder line ) do not
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
lots of those old elements are still out there...some come out with simple pull...or two screws holding the wires!.. take to appliance store (sometimes even lowes!)
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
I have a similar unit with a similar problem, and found the Maytag troubleshooting manual online. Code 1d11 means the the unit reached 600 degrees (not supposed to get that hot). Basically, it had a runaway temperature. The computer does not know why it happened, so it just tells you that it happened by showing code 1d11. But you can tell what went wrong by your description of the problem: the broiler element was turned on without any command from you. Which means the swithc/relay in the electronic control unit is bad. I am guessing it was fried when you ran the oven through the self-cleaning phase (should not get fried with this little of heat--it was defective to begin with). Mine just went bad after 4 years of use. You can get an electronic control unit for this unit for around $170 at Sears online parts store. Notice that Maytag has replaced the old part number for this electronic control unit with a new one, which probably means they had a design flaw and have fixed it.
Posted on May 24, 2012
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