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Kenmore range bake element 970-657423 will not heat up

Oven bake element will not heat up

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: GE Electric Range

It is very common for elements to "catch fire" when they fail. It is really electical arching. But to answer your question you shouldnt be concerned if it ever happens to the bottom element immediatly kill the breaker it will stop instantly. dont use a fire extinguisher as it wont stop the arching. And most ovens do use the upper broil element for baking for very short intervals like 10secs on every minute or so to brown the top of product. Some models (especially older builder line ) do not

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

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SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: ge range electric oven won't heat up

WHEN BAKE CYCLE IS SELECTED?

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: The heating element on the bottom of the oven does not work.

lots of those old elements are still out there...some come out with simple pull...or two screws holding the wires!.. take to appliance store (sometimes even lowes!)

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Oven over heats and gives a 1D11 fault

I have a similar unit with a similar problem, and found the Maytag troubleshooting manual online. Code 1d11 means the the unit reached 600 degrees (not supposed to get that hot). Basically, it had a runaway temperature. The computer does not know why it happened, so it just tells you that it happened by showing code 1d11. But you can tell what went wrong by your description of the problem: the broiler element was turned on without any command from you. Which means the swithc/relay in the electronic control unit is bad. I am guessing it was fried when you ran the oven through the self-cleaning phase (should not get fried with this little of heat--it was defective to begin with). Mine just went bad after 4 years of use. You can get an electronic control unit for this unit for around $170 at Sears online parts store. Notice that Maytag has replaced the old part number for this electronic control unit with a new one, which probably means they had a design flaw and have fixed it.

Posted on May 24, 2012

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1 Answer

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Hello. I looked carefully at the service manual for your unit--surprisingly, there is no thermal switch inline with the bake/broil elements. Usually, if the bake or broil elements pop, this blows out the thermal switch, killing power to the elements for safety. The main control board can get damaged due to the high current draw during a short-circuit. The part number for the main board is WB27T10008. The overlay(the decorative sticker with the button/names on it) numbers are as follows: almond WB27T10022, black WB27T10023, and white WB27T10021. I hope this helps you!

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The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

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Hello,

the problem should be from the heating element of your Kenmore Elite Gas range. The heating element is either defective or may have loosed contact as a result of heat coming out of the Oven. The heat coming from the oven may have melted the wire connected to the heating element which might not make it heat up.

Disassemble the oven and check if its actually the wire connected to heating element that got melted, or its time to replace the heating element.

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What is the complete model # from the sticker on the range? I will need that so I can look into this for you. I will say that I have seen, in several cases, where the oven control gets a surge and fries after an element has broken.

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