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I have not personally seen one but in most cases with washers and dryers, access at the rear, removing a few screws might loosen the top from the back panel and that might allow the top to be pry open. The top is usually held in place with clips rather than screws...same as door panel in cars are held flush against the body of the car with clips. I would try removing the top by way of the back. Just a guess.
This will be bearing noise, the front of the drum uses a felt strip as a bearing and this can wear causing a metal on metal grinding sound, or it could be the rear bearing. You need to dismantle it to investigate further.
A TUBE OF CONTACT CEMENT WORKS WONDERS ON THE SEALING RUBBER - JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE TUBE . IF ITS GOOD ENOUGH FOR DOOR SEALS IN THE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY ITS GOOD ENOUGH TO HOLD YOUR DOOR SEAL IN PLACE - GOOD LUCK.
Check that you have 220v first. Your dryer will work on 110V but will not dry. You need to check all thermostats with a ohm meter (be sure to unplug dryer), they should be 2 ohms or less. Set ohm meter to 1x. If they are good go to heating element (your ohm meter should be on 1X as wel. You need to check to make sure you have continuity (however, this does not mean that it is not bad). You need to take it out and visually inspect it to make sure it has no breaks in the coil. If it does you can buy a rewire kit for runder 30 bucks for most models.