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Hotpoint aqualtis aq9l29i 9kg washer spin cycle doesnt seem to work though the drum does spin round

It just doesn't go round fast so clothes remain soaking wet

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Front Loading Washer Slow Final Spin Cycle

out balance are water still in tub will do that try cleaning out the pump filter under the panel at the bottom of the washer some have a big white looking screw you turnit remove filter if there water in it it will flow to the floor so have something to catch it with

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

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IFIXALL
  • 868 Answers

SOURCE: Hotpoint WD440

Bad door latch or Control board is bad

Posted on May 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: LG front load washer/ clothes still wet after final spin

The heavy jacket prevented the washer from spinning at a rapid pace, so I added a heavy bathrobe to absorb some of the water and to balance the load. The washer then spun very quickly and drained out all the water.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: Cloths Soaked after Spin Cycle

If the motor has a transmission, it could be stuck in 1st gear. I think the agitator running is normal.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: My front loading Kenmore Elite HE3 washer leaves clothes soaking

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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If it does not beep you are overloading it or the load is unbalanced.

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Washer will not spin at all no code . will drain and tumble back and forth,when it comes time to spin it turns off.


A washing machine is basically a big tub that repeatedly fills with water and then drains, spins to wring clothes dry, and has a device for stirring things up-- either an agitator in the middle of a top-load machine or a rolling drum in the case of a front-loader.
The four cycles that every washer performs are fill, wash, drain, and spin. Though these functions are pretty basic, a number of things can go wrong with them.
There are a number of problems that you can fix quite simply; some issues, however, are better left in the hands of an appliance repairperson.Problems that commonly occur with a clothes washer are discussed in depth below.If your washer doesn't run, be sure it's plugged in and that the receptacle works (the circuit hasn't overloaded). Before working on the washing machine, be sure to unplug it.
To prevent problems, follow good maintenance procedures. Use the right amount of detergent for your washer and your water hardness, make sure the machine is level, and don't overload it for the cycle chosen.

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If the washer doesn't fill, the water inlet screens may be blocked. Clean or replace them. (Check your owner's manual for the location of the screens; they're often located at one end of the supply hoses, or you may have to remove a panel to access them.) Other reasons for not filling may be that either the timer or temperature selector is broken--both of these are repairs for an appliance repairperson.

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If your clothes remain wet after your washer's spin cycle, perform the following diagnostics:
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2) If the tub is spinning, recheck the load to make sure it is balanced. If you are certain the load is balanced but your clothes are still wet, you may need to call a repairperson to replace a damaged motor pulley, tub bearing, belt, or clutch.

3) You can also follow the troubleshooting steps outlined in "Washing Machine Doesn't Drain." You may have a problem with your drain hose or pump.

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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Check that the washer supply is OK using another item - a kettle for instance. If it's not check your breakers/fuses. Reset/replace if necessary and if the same thing happens, or if there was nothing wrong with the breakers/fuses in the first place, sorry but with such a fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what could be wrong with your washer. It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB.

I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

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