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Unplug the computer and sensors on the plenum and throttle body. Remove the computer. remove the computer bracket. remove the bolts on the side of the plenum. the ones by the fire wall can be a pain. Pull out the plenum. remove the plugs from the coils. remove the coils. remove the bolts for the valve cover and replace the seal. install in reverse order.
If you didn't correctly reinstall the PCV hose from the black box at the throttle body back on to the valve cover, you might have a vacuum leak causing your high idle. I'd check that first. That is a common mistake to miss that rubber hose. It's hidden underneath the black box at the front of the valve cover. If it is loose, just loosen up the boot at the throttle body, and the two bolts on the right side of the black box above the valve cover. Reposition the 90 rubber hose back on to the valve cover and recheck it. A hissing noise with the engine running is a good indication that the engine has a vacuum leak somewhere- usually a rubber hose disconnected from the intake manifold or throttle body.
If the manifold was replaced, install or connect the following:
Vacuum source manifold.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
Throttle body assembly.
Upper-to-lower intake manifold carrier gasket to the upper intake manifold.
Carefully place the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold. Ensure that the alignment pins in the upper intake manifold align with the holes in the lower intake manifold.
NOTE: Apply thread lock compound, to the bolt threads before assembly.
Install or connect the following:
Upper intake manifold. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in sequence to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
Accelerator and the cruise control cables with the bracket to the throttle body.
EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line to the throttle body.
Connect the electrical connectors to the following:
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
Throttle Position (T/P) sensor
EVAP purge solenoid
Install or connect the following:
Throttle body upper support bracket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
EGR valve wiring harness heat shield, nut and the bolt. Tighten the nut and the bolt to 89 in lbs (10 Nm)
drain the coolant
remove the 2 connectors on the air duct
remove the air inlet duct from the throttle body to the air box
disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable
remove the throttle cable bracket one 10mm nut at the bottom of the throttle body and 2-10mm bolts on top of the throttle body
MOVE A SIDE YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE BRACKET
ok there is a coolant pipe runs across the front valve cover
remove the the hose that will go under the upper intake
then remove the 8mm bolt holding the coolant pipe
then back at the throttle body there are 2 small hoses side the clamps up the you will see a brace on the coolant pipe bolts to the throttle body with a 13mm nut remove that nut
ok now the 2 small hoses will be stuck to the pipe use a SLIDE A SMALL SCREW DRIVER BETWEEN THE HOSES AND THE COOLANT PIPE BE CAREFULL NOT TO CUT THE HOSE
now lift the coolant pipe up at the front of the engine IT HASE AN O RING SEAL
then slide the coolant pipe back at the throttle body back to remove the hoses from the coolant pipe
remove the TPS,IAC and EVAP connectors
then remove the 2 thottle body bolts 13mm
remove the throttle body
you may have to TAP THE THROTTLE BODY WITH A SCREW DRIVE HANDLE TO RELEASE
check the gasket make sure it didn't TEAR or REPLACE IT
now remove the hose to the thermostat housing
there are 2 -13mm bolts the top bolt take it out
the bottom bolt remove 90% the bottom bolt hole is slotted
remove the thermostat housing
REV. porcedure to reassemble
then after you have reassembled
OPEN BOTH BLEED SCREWS THEY ARE 7mm BOLTS one on the thermostat housing and the other one is on the coolant pipe
fill the cooling system till you have a STREAM OF COOLANT COMING OUT OF THE BLEEDERS now CLOSE THE BLEEDER SCREWS
top up coolant in rad and install the cap top up the over flow bottle
start the vehicle up and select VENT,HIGH HEAT BLOWER TO HIGH
let vehicle run untill you have GOOD HEAT COMING OUT OF THE VENTS HOT! NOT JUST WARM
this will insure you have no air locks in the cooling system
good luck and i hope this was helpfull
most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.
the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.
Hello. Let me try to assist you the best I can, with the hope of achieving a FixYa rating from you for my assistance.
Changing the rear valve cover gasket on your vehicle would be not considered a "real" big job, but IS a time-consuming job.
In order to remove the rear cover, you first have to remove the intake plenum. If you do not remove the plenum, you can't get to the valve cover bolts that are under the plenum. After the plenum is off, the valve cover is easy to access. You will also need to replace the intake plenum gasket, if you do the job yourself.
I hope this information has satisfied your question.
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