Question about Microwave Ovens
I bought a microwave and oven wall unit by Jenn Air I have owed it for 4 years and has had it fixed 4 times. What can I do then continually have this piece of **** fixed over and over again. It was not a cheap purchase.
Price paid and brand name are not always reliable measures of quality. You may have to put up with endless frustration until eventually you replace it.
Posted on Dec 27, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
So it's dead? (No display, no inside lights, no beeps?)
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the thermostat to open. When it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
If it's random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Please write back with more details if you need further help.
We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
SOURCE: Jenn Air JMC7000ADW
I would consider the
JMC9158BAW this is a 1.5 cubic ft, yours is 1.6, yours is about 24 inches and this one 24 inch, this model is a built in/countertop
the closet model you are going to find
Kitchenaid has the KBMS1454SSS 24inches comes with 27 and 30 inch trim kit
and KBMS1454S same specs just different model
Posted on May 01, 2008
SOURCE: Jenn-Air Microwave - no power
Had the same problem. Removed the unit (snapping off the upper and lower trim rings was a chore but they do snap off) and tested the power. Plug behind the unit was good. Pulled the cover and checked the thermal fuse with ohm meter. No good. Replaced fuse, microwave would run for a second, then light goes dim and it buzzes, then it blew the fuse. Per above suspected Capacitor. Changed that, and we are back up and running. Thanks!!
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
SOURCE: JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker
I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
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