- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I searched forever for an answer to this and never found one. So this is what I did when you take the cover off on the left hand side there are two switches with two wires coming from.each switch. Then in the same group of wires the is two slightly larger wires one red one black. Those wires go to the optic eye that tells the machine is full. Cut and splice these teo wires together coming from the circuit board this will tell the machine it is empty and should make ice. Worked for me. It just doesn't cut off on its own whenever its full.
Look for a stuck float switch. unit fills with water for 1 minute, then the board "looks" at the float to "see" if there is enough water in the unit to run. If float switch is stuck down, it tells the unit there is not enough water and the unit stays in the fill cycle causing the sump to overflow and send water down the drain constantly. Compressor will not run till the board senses that there is enough water to run.
You give little to go on as to what you have. Self-defrosting? Freezer/refrigerator combo?
Assuming you have an old-style, non-defrosting freezer, the only way to do it properly is to empty it and turn it off until the ice melts. Open the door(s) and surround the base (floor) with towels to catch the water.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANYTHING HARD OR SHARP TO REMOVE THE ICE!!! The rule is to use nothing sharper than a Q-tip.
When the ice is soft, a plastic mallet may help in knocking the ice free, but gently... very gently.
If you cause a leak in the (probably aluminum) evaporator, have enough money budgeted to replace the machine. Repair costs would exceed the replacement cost in most cases.
When done defrosting, re-start the unit and let it run for 24 hours to ensure that the unit can attain temperature... not doing this puts your frozen product at risk.
defrost cycle is innactive, will ice up shortly and may not turn compressor off, defrost the unit totally(Turn off for 2 days with door open) and remove all water from the unit once done. Restart unit and should work normal for a week or so, ie...defrost cycle...get back to me if this is the case and will sort it from there, firstname.lastname@example.org Russ
Do you have the complete model number from the tag on the freezer, it should be either on the bottom rail visible with the door open or on the side wall near the front. I am trying to look this up to see if it is an automatic defrost model, if so you may need to do more than just unthaw and adjust
There is no "screen". Most of these units have dual water valve on rear of unit (two valves on one mounting bracket) located on lower right side of unit. Follow inlet line to where it terminates, you will see water valve. First thing to determine, is the ice maker making ice and not dropping it thru door, or no ice dropping into bucket. Stick finger into I/M and see if you feel ice or if it is empty. If empty (no ice) chance are that I/M is problem, not water valve. Check I/M by pouring water from small glass into I/M,let sit for 2-3 hours and see if it drops ice into bucket, if it does, possible bad water valve, if it doesn't, bad I/M. Those are standard I/M & water valves, available at most applianc parts stores including sears.
you dont want to add any more freon to it to start with
it either has to much in it or the thermostat is not turning it off and making it run to long, you need to see what temperature you are getting in the freezer and what suction pressure the unit is running on to determine if it is over charged
I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!