Question about Honeywell Heating & Cooling
The power light on top of heater stays lit, so it is still getting power. After it cools off it will run again for another 15 seconds and then shut off again.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: heater keeps shutting off !!
I have model 5532, but I think they all have the same problem. There seems to be a safety device in the ceramic heater that turns off if it gets too hot. It "remembers" when this happens as well and will shut off until it is unplugged for 10-15 minutes.
This happens on even lightly used heaters if used in dusty conditions. Dust builds up behind the ceramic heater and the lack of flow causes it to overheat. The unit must be dismantled and the dust brushed/vacuumed out. The good news is that not only will the heater work again, but it will have better airflow too!
To do this, tech support and other people say to "clean the rear grill", but my rear was not dirty. The front grill had some dust that I vacuumed clean, but did not help. In my unit there are no filters before the air goes through the heater element. The problem is in the center of the heater. Taking out the internal fan (four screws on the sides of the squirrel fan box), I could see that the radiator was over half covered in dust. I cleaned that dust out using a shop vac and the problem went away.
Opening the heater was a little tricky, two of the screws were triangle head screws. Once inside, however, it is a simple proceedure to remove the fan. Of course, you should unplug the heater and wait a while before opening it up to make sure there are no electrical charges stored in the unit.
Posted on Apr 05, 2008
SOURCE: Pilot light won't stay lit
Look for dust and lint. Look for them in places where gas should be freely flowing. I had a similar problem with an Empire Corcho wall-mounted propane ceramic catalyst heater. First it was the pilot light, then the #2 ceramic mantle. After horsing around with the gas lines and pressure regulators and trying to re-aim the pilot, it all turned out to be dust and lint in the gas passages. A little dust bunny in the brass pilot tube gave me a pilot light the shape and color of a banana. One puff of compressed air, and I got back my razor-sharp pilot. And some dust in the chimney of the #2 burner kept it burning blue/yellow and blistering paint off the upper surfaces of the heater. A bit of cleaning with a shop-vac put that right. "Passive" heaters are very much prone to this sort of problem because they rely on convection currents (i.e. LOW velocity) to get the job done. Convection currents are notorious dust collectors, as in COBWEB CITY.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
SOURCE: Patio heater won't stay lit
I had this same problem - here's how I fixed it...
First: Never modify the safety features of your heater as has been suggested elsewhere on this forum. Modification of these features may allow the heater to work, but greatly compromises the safety of anyone near the heater.
The problem with the heater shutting off is most likely due to not enough gas flowing through the pilot orifice (this orifice is almost as small as the diameter of a human hair). When this happens, the pilot flame does not burn vigorously enough to activate the thermocouple. Hence, the thermocouple shuts off the gas and the burner goes out - usually you'll hear one "click" when this happens.
This is a maintence thing - meaning you may have to do this as a seasonal activity.
Here we go....
(1) Shut off the gas at the tank - or remove the tank entirely.
(2) Remove the screws that hold the burner shield and top shroud from the unit - set it aside.
(3) Remove the control knob - it just pulls straight off.
(4) Remove the panel immediately behind the knob you just took off. This will expose the gas valve assembly.
(5) Remove the cover that encloses the bottom of the pilot light/igniter (assembly). This will expose the bottom of the pilot assembly.
(6) Remove the screw holding the pilot assembly - there is a small hex nut on top, but under the burner that you'll have to hold to prevent it from turning. This will free the pilot assembly allowing you to gently pull it out of the pilot assembly housing. DON"T pull hard or you may break the gas line or thermocouple.
(7) Remove the hex nut that attaches the gas line to the pilot assembly and gently pull the gas line out. At this point, to ensure you have gas flowing through the pilot gas line, you may want to re-attach the gas tank, turn it on, gently move the gas line as far away from the spark ignitor as possible, temporarily replace the control knob, and turn the knob to the "Pilot" position & push it in. DO NOT DO THIS ANYWHERE NEAR AN OPEN FLAME OR A LIGHTED CIGARETTE! You should be able to hear a hissing sound as the gas flows. If you do not hear it, the problem may be with your gas valve, and if that's the case, I'm sorry this procedure likely won't solve the problem.
(8) Remove the pilot light tube (orifice) from the mounting bracket. There's a hex nut on the back side that holds it in. Be careful not to damage the hex nut or the threads. You'll need a pair of pliers (to hold the bracket) and an adjustable wrench for the hex nut. Make note of the orientation of the pilot burner diverter so you can put it back together the same way it came apart.
(9) Using a blast of compressed air, blow air through the pilot orifice. You should be able to see just a very (and I mean very) small pin-point of light through the pilot burner. If not, use a single strand of very fine wire - like one strand from a 18 gauge braided electrical wire - and run it through the pilot orifice. Carbon build-up can clog this orifice - which can prevent the pilot from burning vigorously enough to heat up the thermocouple. Cleaning it out periodically will likely solve the problem.
Put everything back together in reverse order as noted above - making sure your gas fittings are tight and don't leak. Once it's all back together, light the pilot flame as normal and once the thermocouple heats up, the heater should work like a charm.
Posted on May 25, 2009
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