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Maytag front loader washer Model# MAH8700AWW. No power. It stopped mid-cycle and won't show any signs of power

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Bryan...Let me get this straight! You've been waiting since the DAY AFTER X-mas for a solution!? You's a Patient Man!
You have a Bad Command Module. In other words it is a $400-600 fix! I hope this was a Christmas Present. Because most manufactures (EVEN LG) have a ONE WHOLE year warranty!!! Gee Thanks! So you should call Home Depot, Because we all Know this is where you bought this Piec of Cr...! OOps sorry!
Yea, your main control board that works EVERYTHING is shot! You need either a new one of those! (but why did it fail? cuz it shorted!) Installed wrong! Not you! The factory. Or what I would INSIST! A Brand New Car! No wrong solution! New Machine Bryan!

Posted on Mar 15, 2014

  • Bryan Kelley
    Bryan Kelley Mar 15, 2014

    Thanks Steven, for the response. I figured it out on my own though. You are correct. It was the main control board as I expected. It shorted out and blew a memory chip of some sort. You can actually see where the short occurred. It's all burned out looking, around the area. I've since, purchased a new washer, due to the cost of fixing this high priced, piece of crud for the last time.

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SOURCE: Repairing leaking Maytag washing machine

Maytag Appliances are ****!! Don't buy Maytag. Spent $2500.00 in 2005 on Maytag Neptune washer and dryer. They have been nothing but trouble. Washer has water running in tub constantly. Recall on ground and recall on footing. Dryer making loud noise when drying clothes.The Maytag man is dead and gone.

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

SOURCE: I have a Maytag Model MAH8700aww washer

The "nf" code is a "no-fill" fault. This indicates that your washing is not getting water supplied to it, or the pressure isn't substantial enough to complete a fill. You need to, first, make sure the water supply is turned on. Second, if the water IS turned on, and you're still not getting anything to your washer, you may have a fill valve problem. The fill valve is what both your hoses connect to on the back of the machine. It can become clogged with sediment over time (especially, if you have hard water or well water). Turn the water supply off and remove both hoses from the back of the washer. Check both these hose connections for clogs in the filter screens. If they are clear, then more than likely the fill valve has gone bad. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: spin cycle won,t spin. starts then stops

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

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