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In short, it won't power on. The power button seems to depress normally, the outlet it's plugged into is functional, and there are no obvious defects with the cord.

Just got an older Sony Trinitron 270C, and it won't power on. I know the outlet works, and the cord does not seem to be damaged.

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Start w/ bad solder connection repair cold or open conn. and see if this helps

Posted on May 18, 2009

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The utilitech 0144506 I have won't charge when plugged in. No display comes on.


Troubleshoot if timers do not work:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#troubleshoot

Buy another timer at Lowes and take defect back in new package.
Try plugging into different outlet.
Press reset button to restore functionality.

Mar 24, 2013 | Hardware & Accessories

Tip

Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite Model 110.42926 202 after setting the desired cycle will not start when you push the start button


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.



Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.



Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.



Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.



Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.



Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.



Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
10_5_2012_7_06_37_pm.jpg

Oct 05, 2012 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I has a Crosley Washing Machine Top Loader. Fill light comes on lid locks then NOthing!


seethis causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.
Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this time
Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.
Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the hom
Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

Oct 02, 2012 | Crosley CCW5294W Top Load Washer

1 Answer

When you push start button nothing happens


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

9_29_2012_11_52_17_am.gif

Sep 28, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My Kenmore H3T washer will not start. When a specified wash cycle is chosen Time of Cycle is displayed but the light for the cycle only flashes and washer will not start. No error code is displayed.MO


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.
If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.
If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.
If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.
If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.
9_27_2012_11_38_48_pm.png

Sep 27, 2012 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Tv won't turn on


Have you checked whether the power outlet is ok? Have you tried connecting the TV to another power outlet? If so, there is a defect inside and should be handled only by a qualified service technician.

Aug 13, 2012 | Sony KDL-52W5100 TV

1 Answer

Just bought HPJ4550 and will not turn on during initial setup. Appears to be power to the cord as the green light is on on the coverter.


Ok. The most obvious things first. Unplug the power from the printer itself and plug it back in. Next, press the power button just 1 time and wait 10-15 seconds. If you do not see any lights or display, try a different outlet. If you still cannot get a response from the printer even after trying a different outlet, the printer or power cord is defective.

Aug 22, 2009 | Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

Fedders window model A6Y12F2B "New Unit",,only 10 days in use! Just stopped working No Power To Master Panel Air Conditioner Not Working Fuse Panel/Breaker ok,Outlet ok,,power to plug...


Take it back to the store. Manufacture defect if it died after only 10 days. Attempting repair or disassembly will probably void warranty.

Jun 22, 2008 | Fedders Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Jenn aire


Maytag-Maycop-Magic Chef-Jennair-Admiral
Oven Fault Codes:
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock

May 10, 2008 | Jenn-Air WW30430P Stainless Steel Electric...

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