Question about LG LWD3081ST Electric Double Oven
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You do not have any overload relays in your oven. There is no such thing in ovens, dishwashers, clothes dryers or clothes washers. Overload relays are only related to compressors in refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers and air conditioning.
You do not have any fuses in your oven. There are fuses in dishwashers, Clothes dryers and clothes washers.
I assume neither oven works, therefore:
Then it is not your heating elements nor your thermocouples in your oven, or your oven door contact switches.
That narrows the problem to either your touch pad or your oven control board.
1.) Oven Control Board:
Part #: EBR43296901 Cost: $210.00 Sears price with tax.
So, If I were still working for; "Sears Home Services" or "A&E Factory Services", I would show up at your home and due to company policy charge your twice the part cost plus $200.00+ for labor.
if your unit is under 5 years old you can go into the Sears Home Services website and take out a service agreement. Wait two weeks and call for a service call. You can ask for the "Smart Agreement", which covers you for $500.00 per service call or the move expensive, "Master Protection agreement", which covers you for all the repair cost.
OR, you can go into the Sears Home Service website an print out a 10% off service coupon and call Sears.
OR, you can purchase the part, knowing some one who has a screw driver, contact me and I will walk you through the repair.
OR, you can purchase the part, get the 10% off coupon, call sears. When the technician arrives, explain how you purchase to part and did not know how to put it in.
The technician does not care about you having the part. We, were more concerned about completing our 10-13 service calls per day, 6 days a week and trying to get home by 8:00 PM. Your part probably would not be on the service truck and you would have to be rescheduled anyway.
I had a service call, where I showed up at the door and the woman explained that her husband was going to fix the refrigerator and save money. She said; "That's it I am calling a service technician".
So, here I am. Wires hanging out of the refrigerator and new parts laying on the floor. It took awhile to put everything back together, but I did not charge for parts.
Good luck to you,
Contact me if you want me to walk you through the repair.
Glen Burnie, MD
Posted on May 19, 2015
1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!
Posted on May 18, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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