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Glow ignitor works, but no flame ignites. ohmed out gas valve coil with wires disconnected = OL is it my coil?

Gas dryer runs. glow ignitor functions normally. flame ignites when i first turn on, but burns out. glow ignitor continues to engage and disengage every 30 seconds or so, but no flame will ignite. ohmed gas valve coil with wires disconnected = OL Coil?

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You have a bad flame sensor. Replace it.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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Bad holding coil on the gas valve

Posted on May 18, 2009

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Dryer runs but will not heat. Igniter glows bright red, gas doesn't ignite. Igniter stops glowing after about 10 seconds, dryer keeps running. Timer works, buzzer works. .


Hello. You might have defective valve coils not allowing the gas valve to open. Check to see if you have 120v at the coils. The valve assembly is nothing more than an electromagnet. When the coils are energized, they make a spring-loaded plunger withdraw, allowing gas to pass. After the current is shut off, the springs force the plunger to close off again--just like the coil of wire around a nail(battery powered when you were a kid) and you could pick up small objects magnetically. HOWEVER, you also say that the ignitor glows "bright red"--how old is the dryer? The ignitor usually glows a VERY bright orange--so brightly that you almost can't look at it! A classic symptom of a worn out ignitor is that the center glows but the rest of the glow bar doesn't. If you have an ammeter(meter that checks amperage(current), you should measure about 4 amps +/- on one of the wires going to the glow bar. There is also a flame sensor that will allow the valve to open when it senses a bright enough glow from the glow bar. If you are unsure how to check any of these devices, PLEASE call for a svc tech. I hope I gave you some insight and helped you! And yes, I'm an appliance tech.

Aug 21, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore Dryer 110.76932690. Motor runs fine. Glow bar ignitor does not light. Flame doesn't come on. Changed Internal Bias Operating Thermostat still doesn't ignite. What could be other


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Aug 30, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a 7yo Kenmore Elite gas dryer w/no heat. I tested all the possible culprits with my ohmmeter. I found the ignitor was not glowing so I replaced it. Now it glows but I still have no heat


The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

Jun 17, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Model LG8219W2 On initial start up igniter turns on and flame is ok, after heats up and cycles the flame does not reignite,I can see the igniter glow red but flame does not return. the igniter contiues...


HI. This will essentially be an issue that concerns the gas valve coils. With that said, I will post below a complete burner assembly procedure that will help you isolate the culprit. I'm sure that the coils will fail the test, but to be safe, follow the procedure to confirm.

Gas valve/Burner testing procedure:

On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Click Here to access a exploded diagram of the burner assembly. The affected coils will be labeled number 15 and 10. The actual coil and valve assembly will be labeled number 11 and the burner will be labeled number 9

Aug 22, 2010 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have an Amana Dryer Model # LGD20AW and when the dryer is first turned on the glow plug will heat up and ignite the gas but as the dry cycle continues the glow plug will heat up but no flame will ignite...


The glow coil or glow bar heats up and a sensor on the side reacts to the heat and then sends a signal to a gas valve.(solenoid valve) When the gas doesn't ignite when the coil is glowing... here are some reasons. 1. The sensor on the side of the burner assembly isn't working or sending power to the valve. 2. The valve is getting power but not opening. 3. The ignitor is not glowing hot enough to activate the flame sensor. Usually it is the sensor or the igniter not the valve.
Tom

Aug 10, 2010 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

No heat,power and gas are on! new thermal fuse,new gas valve coils,igniter glows


The only other possible issues would be your gas valve is bad or maybe a bad flame sensor. If the ignitor is glowing and you have replaced the booster coils mounted on top of the gas valve then your gas valve is probably stuck shut. Before replacing the gas valve I would ohm out the flame sensor mounted on the side of the heater housing. If it has continuity then its probably ok. If the thermal fuse was bad your ignitor would not even glow.

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore gas dryer is it good if on # 1 coil on #1and 2 i get1328 ohms 1and3 i get 528 on #2 coil i get 1220 ohms


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Will not ignite. NO HEAT


The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Now, if the ignitor passes the inspection, and test, this will lead to a failed set of gas valve coils.


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Nov 02, 2009 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer spins, but no heat is generated. The dryer model number is 110.76662500


Hello,
This could be one of the following:

* Defective ignitor. Suspected when ignitor fails to glow at all. Confirm by testing for 120v at the ignitor terminals. If present, ignitor is bad. Otherwise, suspect the flame sensor.

* Failed gas valve or holding valve coil. Run ohms check on each valve. May also need to actuate each valve with a test cord since that may only fail after being actuated a couple of times.

* One of the thermostats are open. Run continuity check.

* Bad flame sensor. If flame fails to ignite at all and the ignitor does is not getting 120v, suspect the flame sensor.

If you are not comfortable performing these checks, call in a repair person to check these components.
Hope this helps.

Sep 08, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Igniter goes on, but there is no flame. i just recently replaced the igniter....dryer was working fine for a few months. now the igniter goes on, but there is no ignition.....i'm assuming no gas is coming...


HI. this sounds like you may have a set of bad gas valve coils. these solenoid based coils are located just on the top of the burner assembly and they are black, cylindrical looking devices. these coils can fail overtime. they are responsible for the opening and closing of the gas valves.

Your issue can be caused by a faulty ignitor as well so, i recommend inspecting the ignition first. The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Note-If the ignitor passes the test, replace the coil assembly.

Aug 08, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

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